ReaperGN

Conversion is done. Trans is in, dogbones sourced and everything bolted together. The stock Tamiya cups are just overly soft. Also there are very few documented conversions of the TNX and it's counterparts. Most use the stock trans with questionable mounting. Once I get some run time on this one I have a Terra Crusher that is going to be converted. Im not sure yet if I will be able to keep the Terra chassis or not. Using the Traxxas transmission kinda forces you into mounting the batteries up front unless you want to just lock it in one gear.

The original cups on the diffs and trans are the same part. The power of a modern Brushless motor is way beyond what the cups were intended for so I'm after some made of better steel. But the 6mm shaft size is not popular. I will probably have to drill out some 5mm ones.

I'm finishing putting a E-Maxx/Summit trans in my TNX and got the last major obstacle solved today. But while installing the rear dog bone I noticed that the drive cup on the diff has a lot of play. And after looking around the internet for a bit I've come to the conclusion that drive cups for a TNX are not exactly a common size. Are there any easy to get alternatives that fit the 6mm shaft with a 4mm pin and accept 8mm dog bones? I think o.g. HPI Savage ones might be a match but not exactly easy to find.

At this point I'm committed. There is no going back to plastic tracks. As to adjustment the clutch's have rather tight tolerances all things considered. And there is zero adjustment to be had at the actual clutch. I was able to install 4 thin shims under the spring and gain some power out of the clutch but still not enough to drive on anything but smooth tile. Any more than 4 and it locks the clutch tight. Unless someone has a suggestion about all I can do is order the trans from eto armor.

A while back I picked up an original King Tiger for a pretty decent price. I bought all new electronics, replaced the road wheels with aluminum ones then hit a snag. The previous owner had lost one track link. I tried working with it but things are just to tight so I ordered up some metal tracks for it. Now I knew they would be heavy and put a strain on the clutches but I figured there has to be a way to make them work. Going forwards or backwards is not a problem but they cant handle turning. Is there anything I can do to fix this such as stiffer springs/increasing tension with washers? I removed the cork pads and installed some better ones and that helped a little. I know of a trans I can buy that will convert it over to dual motors but I really rather have the clutch setup. Especially since I dont ever plan on driving it hard and as sad as it is never outside. The body was painted to well and is way to old to be going through bushes or being cleaned often. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I recently got my hands on an original King Tiger and other than some minor body issues its in great shape. But all ready with just getting to know it two of the outer hubs on the road wheels have broken. I would like to replace them with some all metal ones but all I can find are listed for the Heng Long tanks. From the pictures I have seen it looks like they are copy's of the Tamiya ones. But I just want to make sure before I order a set that Heng Long Road Wheels for the King Tiger will work on my Tamiya King Tiger 56004. Any information would be appreciated.

This is something I have been building up slowly. I have had it out a handful of times but never really gotten to see what it can do. Due to the age and differences in later models it has not been easy to piece it together. It still needs a few things before its finished but the last obstacle was securing the battery's. I just recently found a setup I like. I am interested to see if anyone can identify it so I wont share the details just yet.

You should not need a separate battery for most light setups. The ESC should have more than enough power to run them. If not a external BEC will beat the snot out of a small battery pack but led's don't really consume that much power. I like to use lights from Evan Designs. They are a bit over kill but they handle up to 19 volts and are pre wired with resistors and bridge rectifiers so they can be ran from AC, DC and DCC. They also come in a good range of colors. If you want to control them from a remote there are controllers available or you can convert a old servo or esc. Another method is to mount a switch and use a servo to turn it on and off.

I run my F-350 High Lift pretty rough and it has no issues other than the rear pinion occasionally going out. But that's only when it acts up and decides to pull the front off the ground on a good launch. It goes just about anywhere a SCX-10 will and will keep up with brushed ST's. Considering what it is I would say the performance of the High Lift is excellent. I have not owned a Bruiser but I would expect similar performance. Not front in the air and rear bumper dragging performance but more than enough to have some fun.

I could be mistaken but I think 2.2's will fit the Hilux with ease. If not its very simple to lift it a bit to run them. The extra width and cushion from 2.2's really help the Hi Lifts out and give it that old skool MT look.

I feel Hobby King is hurting the hobby. When ever someone starts selling similar products at super low prices the established company's have to compete. Then while doing so their quality starts to circle the drain. Eventually it starts to hurt everyone. I am not saying run out and spend top dollar but buy from company's that actually advance things. Hobby King simply copies existing items. They do nothing to advance the technology.

It has a E-Maxx trans and shafts so it should do alright there. The O.G. RC4WD beadlocks are going to be a strain on it but if my Clod can handle them the TXT should. If its to much I can also pull a pack out and only run on 2s.

If all goes according to plan I will be picking a TXT shortly. But that video has me wondering if a Castle 8th sidewinder on 4s will be a bit to much for the truck.

Grease is not grease. There is one for every situation. Try some marine grease or a quality polymer that is waterproof. Either will stick to the gears even in water.

If going the leaf spring route leave the stock ones in the package and sell them off. The red ones from RC4WD are WAY softer and really allow the suspension to move. I want to get a set but other projects keep getting in the way. The ones I messed with were on a RC4WD Trail Finder and I couldn't believe the difference over the stock ones in my Lift. There are also some special shackles and mounts that can allow a leaf setup to move even more but I feel it would be worse than a 4 link setup if one were ever to venture out of 1st. And on your front steering you can mount the servo next to the shift servo to eliminate a bunch of the slop the stock setup has. I am still working a rear setup but I will probably have to go to smaller battery pack to make it as clean as the front. One last thing. Your welcome to steal this idea if you like it but I have always wanted to slam a High Lift to the ground and make it out run that Wheely King HPI made. Not sure if the 3 speed would like shifting at 80+mph though.