ReaperGN
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Posts posted by ReaperGN
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I have been keeping an eye out for a clear body for a regular TNX and one popped up today. That led to me needing decals and stumbling into a complete body set out of Poland. Hopefully they actually have it and it makes it to me safely.
I plan to send the body set to MCI racing so they can replicate everything and offer it to others.
I also found a decal set for a 5.2R out of the UK so I got that on order as well. But I can't find a clear body for a 5.2R. Was that ever a thing?
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Conversion is done. Trans is in, dogbones sourced and everything bolted together. The stock Tamiya cups are just overly soft.
Also there are very few documented conversions of the TNX and it's counterparts. Most use the stock trans with questionable mounting. Once I get some run time on this one I have a Terra Crusher that is going to be converted. Im not sure yet if I will be able to keep the Terra chassis or not. Using the Traxxas transmission kinda forces you into mounting the batteries up front unless you want to just lock it in one gear.
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The original cups on the diffs and trans are the same part. The power of a modern Brushless motor is way beyond what the cups were intended for so I'm after some made of better steel. But the 6mm shaft size is not popular. I will probably have to drill out some 5mm ones.
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I'm finishing putting a E-Maxx/Summit trans in my TNX and got the last major obstacle solved today. But while installing the rear dog bone I noticed that the drive cup on the diff has a lot of play. And after looking around the internet for a bit I've come to the conclusion that drive cups for a TNX are not exactly a common size. Are there any easy to get alternatives that fit the 6mm shaft with a 4mm pin and accept 8mm dog bones? I think o.g. HPI Savage ones might be a match but not exactly easy to find.
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At this point I'm committed. There is no going back to plastic tracks.
As to adjustment the clutch's have rather tight tolerances all things considered. And there is zero adjustment to be had at the actual clutch. I was able to install 4 thin shims under the spring and gain some power out of the clutch but still not enough to drive on anything but smooth tile. Any more than 4 and it locks the clutch tight.
Unless someone has a suggestion about all I can do is order the trans from eto armor.
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A while back I picked up an original King Tiger for a pretty decent price. I bought all new electronics, replaced the road wheels with aluminum ones then hit a snag. The previous owner had lost one track link. I tried working with it but things are just to tight so I ordered up some metal tracks for it. Now I knew they would be heavy and put a strain on the clutches but I figured there has to be a way to make them work. Going forwards or backwards is not a problem but they cant handle turning.
Is there anything I can do to fix this such as stiffer springs/increasing tension with washers? I removed the cork pads and installed some better ones and that helped a little. I know of a trans I can buy that will convert it over to dual motors but I really rather have the clutch setup. Especially since I dont ever plan on driving it hard and as sad as it is never outside. The body was painted to well and is way to old to be going through bushes or being cleaned often.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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I recently got my hands on an original King Tiger and other than some minor body issues its in great shape. But all ready with just getting to know it two of the outer hubs on the road wheels have broken. I would like to replace them with some all metal ones but all I can find are listed for the Heng Long tanks. From the pictures I have seen it looks like they are copy's of the Tamiya ones. But I just want to make sure before I order a set that Heng Long Road Wheels for the King Tiger will work on my Tamiya King Tiger 56004. Any information would be appreciated.
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This is something I have been building up slowly. I have had it out a handful of times but never really gotten to see what it can do. Due to the age and differences in later models it has not been easy to piece it together. It still needs a few things before its finished but the last obstacle was securing the battery's. I just recently found a setup I like. I am interested to see if anyone can identify it so I wont share the details just yet.
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You should not need a separate battery for most light setups. The ESC should have more than enough power to run them. If not a external BEC will beat the snot out of a small battery pack but led's don't really consume that much power. I like to use lights from Evan Designs. They are a bit over kill but they handle up to 19 volts and are pre wired with resistors and bridge rectifiers so they can be ran from AC, DC and DCC. They also come in a good range of colors.
If you want to control them from a remote there are controllers available or you can convert a old servo or esc. Another method is to mount a switch and use a servo to turn it on and off.
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I run my F-350 High Lift pretty rough and it has no issues other than the rear pinion occasionally going out. But that's only when it acts up and decides to pull the front off the ground on a good launch. It goes just about anywhere a SCX-10 will and will keep up with brushed ST's. Considering what it is I would say the performance of the High Lift is excellent. I have not owned a Bruiser but I would expect similar performance. Not front in the air and rear bumper dragging performance but more than enough to have some fun.
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I could be mistaken but I think 2.2's will fit the Hilux with ease. If not its very simple to lift it a bit to run them. The extra width and cushion from 2.2's really help the Hi Lifts out and give it that old skool MT look.
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I feel Hobby King is hurting the hobby. When ever someone starts selling similar products at super low prices the established company's have to compete. Then while doing so their quality starts to circle the drain. Eventually it starts to hurt everyone. I am not saying run out and spend top dollar but buy from company's that actually advance things. Hobby King simply copies existing items. They do nothing to advance the technology.
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It has a E-Maxx trans and shafts so it should do alright there. The O.G. RC4WD beadlocks are going to be a strain on it but if my Clod can handle them the TXT should. If its to much I can also pull a pack out and only run on 2s.
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If all goes according to plan I will be picking a TXT shortly. But that video has me wondering if a Castle 8th sidewinder on 4s will be a bit to much for the truck.
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Grease is not grease. There is one for every situation. Try some marine grease or a quality polymer that is waterproof. Either will stick to the gears even in water.
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If going the leaf spring route leave the stock ones in the package and sell them off. The red ones from RC4WD are WAY softer and really allow the suspension to move. I want to get a set but other projects keep getting in the way. The ones I messed with were on a RC4WD Trail Finder and I couldn't believe the difference over the stock ones in my Lift. There are also some special shackles and mounts that can allow a leaf setup to move even more but I feel it would be worse than a 4 link setup if one were ever to venture out of 1st.
And on your front steering you can mount the servo next to the shift servo to eliminate a bunch of the slop the stock setup has. I am still working a rear setup but I will probably have to go to smaller battery pack to make it as clean as the front.
One last thing. Your welcome to steal this idea if you like it but I have always wanted to slam a High Lift to the ground and make it out run that Wheely King HPI made. Not sure if the 3 speed would like shifting at 80+mph though.
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The High Lift is not a good 4 Link Rig. The layout does not allow for many mounting options and the weight makes it roll around like a full size van with worn springs and bad shocks. All you really need to do with a High Lift is add some lift blocks, spacers for the box mount and flip the cab mount brackets upside down. Add some 2.2 Tires and there are few places it cant go that 4 linked rigs can. And if you find your twisting the rear axle while pushing/pulling a ladder bar setup is super easy to do. Such a setup should work with the stock shocks which are nicer than you think. If you want something different check out the GMade piggy backs or Duratrax Evader ST (Model Name not style) shocks.
Here is a old pic of my High Lift.
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just be wary of that period's red/black/blue wiring... opposite to current KO, Futaba-J or JR etc...
That is good to know. Is it simply backward or do I need to swap some things around?
You may find some information on your motors here..
Thanks for the link. That is a very good motor guide. Sadly it does not mention the B & R or Speed Works that I have. The Speed Works seems to be the oldest due to the incredibly small wire tabs. And the B & R is a sealed can with stock printed on it so its probably a 27x1. But with the little bit I have ran it, it seems to still have some good power. Just wish I could find a picture of it. And based on that thread the Epic end bell may not be stock or someone put the sticker on another motor.
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Yes it has the booster box. Not as nice as the one in that thread but all there. I have not tried to fire it up but if its anything like old futaba's it should still work.
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Thanks. That helps with the esc.
And as far as I can tell the Speed Works is a 18x2 but I cant find any mention of the B&R. There are other motors made by them but none with a pink can that I have been able to find.
As to the servo I found someone else that has/had one but I cant find and spec listings for the number. I can find a 301 and a 401 but no 303.
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A friend gave me some vintage electronics and I would like some info about them.
What turn and wind are these?
1. Trinity Speed Works Blue Print Series Racing motor, silver can with purple label.
2. Trinity Slot Machine. (I think its a 27t but would like some verification)
3. B & R Signature Series Motor. Pink can epic end bell but not sure if its made by Trinity.
What is the motor limit on this?
4. Novak 410-M5 esc.
Last is a Ko-ProPo servo model number PS-303 FET. Its my understanding that this servo needs extra power from the esc to work. Luckily the esc has the required lead. What I need to know about this is the speed/torque and if possible a part number for replacement gears. The output is a little beat up but should still hold a horn. If possible I would like to track down a replacement.
Any info you have about these parts would be appreciated.
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Thanks.
And the low riding stadium trucks are not my style either. But this was hard to pass up for the price. After a good cleaning and some part swapping it should look much better.
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Here are a few pics.
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Thanks for the welcome.
And I don't plan on selling it or care all that much about price. Just curious as to how rare it is. From what I can tell it was a parking lot basher and has quite a few miles on it. Because of this the plastics are not all that great. And the body is gone so I will have to track one down eventually. One of the diff outputs was also missing but luckily the shop had some for a TL-01 that made a good replacement. I then replaced the dog bones with some Hot Bodies ones and threw in some spare electronics. Its a runner but needs some tlc. The screws need to be replaced and the chassis needs a good scrubbing. Its not much to look at but I will try to get some pictures up.
Clear body for TNX 5.2R
in All things RC Nitro
Posted
All three have a different body. There was also another one I believe. After doing some digging I did find a clear body for a TNX and I also found decals for all three. Hopefully they are all in good shape so I can pass them along.
Im still looking for an unpainted Terra and 5.2 body though.
Terra Crusher - 18085093
TNX - 51880
TNX 5.2R - 1804029