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firefoxussr

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Everything posted by firefoxussr

  1. firefoxussr
    This is what USGT was and VTA is. USGT was 10th scale pan car with a GT non-prototype body (mostly Lexus LFA, 911 GT1, faux-Aston, faux-Alfa). And VTA is vintage touring car, but it has to be a 'pony car' body shell. As in late 60's early 70s muscle car. I just ran my Pantera anyway because it's a mid-engine chassis (very used and very cheap X-Ray T1... with transponder!)
  2. firefoxussr
    This is the number one reason I buy out-of-production bodyshells. I know that it is unlikely that the bodyshells I've collected will ever be available again. So I collect all the ones I really want for future molding and duplication. Buying one that is not already cut/trimmed makes the task go much easier than a body which is already completed. I like how this guy did it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DqJ1tYf28MI vac forming https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AXaafKOQ7Uw mold making, note how he does the multi-part casting, very clever
  3. firefoxussr
    looks like at least +5 degrees. i'll take a pic.
  4. firefoxussr
    The springs were on right the first time. And apparently you have to glue the HPI tires, even if only running 2S. image missing Anyone who's built an M06... is this too much positive camber? It looks wrong to me. Put on HPI Cup Racer wheels/tires to make sure it wasn't the exaggerated dimensions of wide touring car tires causing the issue.
  5. firefoxussr
    Figured out what was off about my M06 build after test driving it. Got the springs mixed up, really have to glue the tires, camber settings, don't gun the throttle....
  6. firefoxussr
    Seem to have the handling figured out, mostly. Now to figure out how to mount the body.
  7. firefoxussr
    My M06 is now driveable but has a significant traction roll problem. I'll have to try a few things. 😀
  8. firefoxussr
    I totally slept on the black parts edition of that body. Could have had it for twenty bucks domestically shipped once! That said I wasn't in love with my M06L project at the time. Forgot to mention I own four Lancia 037 shells in various states. One day I'll actually paint one and use it. Oh and a trio of 911 GT1s.
  9. firefoxussr
    Finally put a better quality ESC in the XV01. This one actually fits in the electronics box. Important as the car will be doing offroad in the future. I also put about twenty more screws in where they were never put in. It was a rushed build. Eventually I'll finish the stock body with stickers and Killerbody wheels.
  10. firefoxussr
    Solid points. Many reasons there why I haven't just bought an M-Four from TamiyaUSA at the nice price.
  11. firefoxussr
    My advice would be to avoid Associated just because they run all SAE hardware, meaning you'll need SAE tools just for that car. If you are running other Tamiyas, which are completely metric this will prove to be an annoyance. Get any eurasian touring car- xray, yokomo, schumacher, 3racing, etc. And you will probably find using SAE gearing is the only thing you'll need that's american. I run 48 pitch on my Tamiyas.
  12. firefoxussr
    You're right about the needing custom plates. But i think that may just be the beginning- the hubs may be too large to fit in m-chassis wheels, you'd need shorter a-arms/wishbones, shorten the driveshaft, .... https://forum.driftmission.com/Thread-feng-s-custom-rwd-m-chassis-mx-5-nd I think it may be a better to find a TA05 M-Four and make it 225mm wheelbase. I'm confident it's not too difficult as Active Hobby apparently allowed 225mm with their M-Four suspension kit.
  13. firefoxussr
    The M06 is a good car just not for this body. The rear-mounted motor overhangs too much unfortunately. Which makes sense as the 1:1 is a mid-engine car. That said you could just run it without the rear valence 037 style! *photo credit- @terry.sc
  14. firefoxussr
    Interesting, an M-chassis sized 3Racing D4. I want mod an MST FMX-D or FXX-D in this fashion for a true front-engine RWD M-Chassis car. Most of the RWD M cars are this configuration in 1:1.
  15. firefoxussr
    It's not a bad idea really just for parts. That way if you need something for your runner, you have considerably less downtime. That said I own two non-identical TA05s. One is shortened with different arms and spacers for 239mm wheelbase and the other is a standard IFS version (for now!). I have a trio of 3Racing FGX chassis. Two are runners, one is going to be modded to fit the Jaguar XJR-15 body I acquired a couple years ago. I also have many many parts that came with the FGX lot I bought from an RCTech member. I considered buying a second Cup Racer, because like the FGX, it is out of production. Now with the M.Rage and Xpress M1 in existence, it's not a concern. Also I bought an A201SS (aka Ofna JL12e) which the HPI Stratos shell easily fits.
  16. firefoxussr
    Daily design work.... I do the same. My work on my instrument rating during my off time is really putting a delay on my RC builds!
  17. firefoxussr
    Apparently the ones in the HPI catalog/promos are the white wheels dyed yellow. Hence the matte finish. Keep up the good work. I had some fun with my last Stratos shell, I opened up the front grille and quarterlight vents:
  18. firefoxussr
    No official m-chassis speed runs yet? Think I'll put my 911 GT2 when it's done.
  19. firefoxussr
    Inquiring minds want to know. Here's some rear-engined love for ya:
  20. firefoxussr
    World's first- TA05 Porsche 911 GT1 '98 LM winner.
  21. firefoxussr
    This applies even more with a hard body... Mine was lexan, so it didn't matter as much. The reason is so you can fill the body's hollow cavity, which gives it a buffer against being squashed, it's not an easy-to-pack flat shape. With a hard body, I'd recommend embedding it in clothes, probably put a loose plastic bag on it to keep the decals or paintwork from being rubbed by clothes. If you bring your SCT which I'm assuming is lexan... take the body posts loose so they can fold down, and just lay the body on top of the chassis without wheels, a wheel or two can probably fit in the cabin cavity of the body. You'd be surprised how much narrower and lower profile it is.
  22. firefoxussr
    I brought my 1/14th Vaterra Kemora with me to Kenya. I put it in a standard size backpack. To make it easier to transport, I'd left the body loose, collapsed the body posts, and removed the wheels. This allowed it to fit much more efficiently. Removing the wheels and body is key.
  23. firefoxussr
    the shell and truck were actually fine, literally popped back in place after i peeled it off the barrier
  24. firefoxussr
    might have been this one, it had one big symbol which i used on my truck's bed area: http://www.ebay.com/itm/G1-Decepticon-Symbol-Logo-Insignia-Sticker-Decal-Sheet/112225760615
  25. firefoxussr
    I used these Decepticon stickers on my short course truck for racing, never had them come off. http://www.ebay.com/itm/G1-Decepticon-Symbol-Insignia-Logo-Sticker-Decal-Sheet/112199166882
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