firefoxussr

Oh my, i didn't see all of your Lancia & Group B Rally cars until i zoomed the pic. Respect!

Haha that's half of my cars. I usually am deciding what electronics should be swapped and what may replace them or is this model just going 'used shelfer' status for a while.

Isn't that how it always goes? I too am a graphic designer professionally... but I've been progressing in my pilot certifications instead of having free time to do RC

I don't like things owning me. So I tend to keep what's best for me at that juncture with a bit of a buffer. I've sold my M05, F103, TA03, Vaterra and an HPI but all of these were purchases made in my early 30s. I am probably unique in that I used to build static kits and collect diecast cars... which are somewhat fun to build but not fun to have sitting and cluttering (and usually not the same scale...). Once I had my first hobby grade RC... I started selling every static model finished, kit or otherwise that I had. It's just so much more fun to run a scale model of an automobile. For me it's about realizing a longstanding desire to have hobby grade cars. They were just the ultimate to me when growing up. But I didn't save up to buy one because I knew they were slow (or nitro...) at the time and I would be wrought with disappointment. Technology has changed that. Hence everything I run is LiPo and usually brushless. I wouldn't now nor would have I done nitro powered cars... just too noisy and the necessity of mangling the body or exposing the single-piston engine ruins the scale aspect for me.

Amazing paint respray/restore. Love the HPI motor in there LOL... i've powered my TT02 with one. Your painting gives me an idea of what to do with my cutout, but mint CLK GTR shell

Aggressive toe-in is preferable to toe-out on a rear-biased car. When I got my Cup Racer, I converted it from 225 to 210 mm by flipping the rear a-arms. Unfortunately, I didn't realize you have to swap them side to side. My first experience driving it was constant traction rolling, couldn't even make it through a corner, everyone had a good laugh at it on the track that day . And it was marginally towed out.

So close to finishing my Integrale shell..... The XV01 might be the best chassis for bashing I've encountered yet. I can barely wait!

For me without a doubt it's my Parma (supposedly) Jaguar XJR-15 1/10th pancar body. I find it most interesting because I don't see any evidence of one existing on the Internet. It is my favorite Jaguar by a wide margin. I'm planning on making a decal design for it like this: After I make a duplicate body. If I get ambitious, make 3d printed mirrors, alternate spoiler, etc.

I advise you to buy the one for $40usd on eBay right now. It's new, complete and ships from the UK. I only didn't buy it because I have a few already and shipping to the US costs half what the item does. It's a bargain price. Get it now before it's gone.

I have an easy time selling vintage chassis but not the bodies. To me the tech gets old but then the licensing runs out. I want to buy several 90s Tamiya bodies just to use, but alas the litigious nature of modern graphic design/industrial design keeps new copies from becoming available. It's hard enough to get an RC body into production without having to get permission from the livery trademark owners. They do realize it's free advertising on a model car, right? I just can't even imagine the conversation about the Taisan Porsche and how it can't be reissued with the livery that would have taken place at Tamiya HQ.

I currently daily drive a 1:1 1999 NB MX-5. I want to build one of these on an M.Rage (with a-arm flip).

Don't forget the Rally Legends Lancia 037. It's not as proportionally accurate as the Tamiya 037... buuuut you don't have to have a non-standard touring car chassis. More info: http://www.therallylegends.net/articles.php?id_article=1000018903 I'd like to see more Group B cars available. Particularly the Ford RS200. A few were made by Control Freax, which look okay, but are mad rare AFAIK. More info from TC: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=98412&sid=32211 Also the Audi Quattro S1 and Pikes Peak versions are pretty cool. I think my XV01 may need a Pikes Peak Quattro! Off topic, but M-Chassis cars have the Audi Quattro (early version), Renault 5 Turbo, Porsche 959, and the Peugeot 205.

The world's first Lancia 037 low-rider Finally the TA05-S has a runner body Anyone want a TA03R-S? It will not be pricy.

This is so awesome. Any more progress?

The Alfa SZ looks better than the manufacturer's marketing pics! Love the XV, I'm building one with an Integrale shell currently. It's such an appropriate chassis for the shell. Just had my first test run with the XV recently, talk about quality road manners.

+1 for silver, i use Rustoleum for plastics spray because it's so great for backing. if it cracks, who cares it's a backing coat. very economical. I also use gold for red. Gives it a nice quality.

I've had this problem too. Only on the TT02 with 3 cell

I still haven't bought from Banzai, but I've considered buying Kawada rims from them. I did order from Stella Models & RcMart though.

+1 on natural habitat. I took my 1/16th Lancia Stratos rally to Kenya with me. Lancia took 3rd in 1977!

It's been a busy buying week, finally got my hands on an M04. And I finally found a deal on a runner 911 GT1 shell. Now what to do with that TA03R-S..... I have some ideas. I'd like to turn it into a TA03F drifter or something like that. TA03R-S is way too heavy to be a GT1 car for my tastes, the 911 will be on a modded TA05. *side note- both where lucky finds... the 911 was labeled as a "911 GT1 Tekin chassis" and the M04 as "Rare Tamiya Roller" :-)

Hindo http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/10290283/ The red Pantera body is 210mm wide for reference.

It needs voltage monitoring. Because the TBLE is built for LiFe batteries, the voltage protection is wrong for LiPo. "Each LiFe cell has a NOMINAL voltage of 3.3V. A fully charged LiFe cell is 3.6V, and a fully depleted LiFe cell is 2.5V." LiPo batteries have a fully depleted value of 3.0-3.3v typically, so if you just use the TBLE the LiPo can dip below 3.0v which causes permanent damage to the battery, instability, and potentially fire. If you wish to use the TBLE with a LiPo, get an audible voltage alarm or at least a voltage checker. Either way when you see your LiPo is close to 3.0v, time to shut off and recharge it.

It's Ikea for me too. I saw this last time I was there, I measured to confirm but I knew it was right.

Finally put the wires and tires on my XV01 build. Convenient that there is a hood bulge on this shell, the wires wouldn't fit through anywhere else and be long enough.

Arduous searches for the best model of the type of chassis and body choice. And find out how much power it can really handle. I also acquire runners in an economic way.