firefoxussr

I read both of them!

Race time! FGX is getting raced too. Lancia / TA05 not yet!

I almost always turn on the remote afterwards. And I have the expectation that the vehicle may try to take off.

I wish HPI would just sell the rights & tooling or rebrand it. It happened with the Nanda NRX-12... which is now available as the BSR M.Rage And after a google... yes you can fit the 240Z shell to the chassis.... see here http://www.ultimaterc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=196800&page=4 Now that I see the clear body pic... i think it could work for the Stratos too (even though there's a hugely flat/sloping nose)

That looks like an XRay T1! Tough car. Can't wait to race mine this weekend!

Sorry to revive this a year later.... I'm really surprised the owner didn't remove the rear spoiler. It's just bolted on externally (road and racecars alike).

I've had good luck with my cars with one exception. Don't ever test a failsafe in uncontrolled conditions. I'd just reprogrammed the no-radio throttle cutoff for my Lancia Stratos (HPI Cup Racer). While running in the apartment complex lot at half throttle I turned off the transmitter. It took the transmitter about 20 seconds to re-link once I realized the failsafe wasn't operative. It kept going.... right over a 1:1 speed bump, did a nice dive and roll then slid on its roof for about 30 feet. Destroyed the roof paintwork as it was pavement. Not to worry though, HPI has a lot of Stratos bodies it can't sell because they quit making the only m-chassis it fits properly. Getting a body is so cheap and in ready supply... unlike a 1:1 Stratos.

Incredibly wonderful! I hope to do something like this for my Lancia shell.

That's how my HPI Sprint 2 Sport was on carpet. I took it out for one or two practice nights and decided to buy an F103 instead of trying to race that monster (though it could punt regular weight touring cars off the track )

Video of the shell in action, different chassis... interesting that it fits.

I frequently detail up nice then race/drift/bash, all of which leads to cosmetic destruction. It's part of the fun. Hence my desire to copy some of my rare Tamiya shells.

This is something I found out the first time going to an RC track. I went to a drift meet and bashed for months with no real damage. It only took one race to see what my car was really made of.

Yes yes and yes. I did a TA03R to R-S spec without issue using only a TA03R, R-S tub, and a R-S belt. Sold it when I found a better RMR 236-239mm chassis option (TA05 mod).

Yes there bodies are licensed (and expensive..... I almost bought their S4 several times but the 60-80USD price put me off).. but I guess they don't have to pay Speedline for licensing the wheel design I'd google the part number EZRL2071 and see what's available in europe. e.g. http://www.manis-rcshop.at/EZRL2071+Wheels+-+1-10+Rally+-+Lancia+037+Magnesium+Silver+Set.htm

If you want some runner wheels...the Rally Legends RC 037/S4 rims are surprisingly cheap and are available in 'magnesium' (matte). http://rallylegendsrc.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=68 This last week I unintentionally made my TT02S a low-rider. Remember children: worn tires, short wheelbase and 3S power don't mix well. This weekend I sorted out what's going on what for a return to RC racing. I've painted up my HPI Pantera in period dress with flagrant disregard for VTA body rules (only Pony Cars per rules). It's riding on my newly acquired ancient XRay T1 chassis, which may need a further gearing increase. I've got so much Tamiya to build atm. TA05S roller waiting for me to make a runner body, same for the TA02S that needs building.

Holy crap that exhaust!! I don't like nitro because of the cutout windows, unscale engine and side exit exhaust; but that I could do!

My wife likes my hobby, she's good with the two spaces I've setup Awesome to have lately... broke the one thing I had my buggy completely apart to fix, parts took a week. I was able to rebuild my F1 car in the other space.

Bought a VTA car. And a transponder... finally. Great deal.

This is awesome. Love to see the detail built in. I like to detail, drive, race, and repeat.

This is cool, and def under m-chassis size. Chassis Type: 1/10 K-Car Width: 150mm Length: 245mm Wheelbase: 170mm Body: Tamiya's WR-02 Jimny , Volkswagen Type2(T1) and The LC40 found on GF01 kits

It is a nicely engineered chassis and great for drifting being a front-mounted motor in the TA03F configuration. I only sold my TA03R-S when I found a TA05 could be converted to short wheelbase (239mm).

Still wanting to buy an XV01 Lancia. How scale correct is this car's driveline... transverse motor ... check front mounted motor ... check all wheel drive ... check That's my hangup... make the 1:1 and the 1:10 at least have the same layout. I'm also considering making a rear-engine RWD 911. (i love that Tamiya's M cars usually have FF bodyshells. Now if only they would make an FR chassis for that MX-5, Alfa, Silvia, etc.)

I went for the Reedy WolfPack. Bought it for my HPI Cup Racer (tight fit, good fit) and later for my TA02SW: http://www.dollarhobbyz.com/products/associated-wolfpack-lipo-2s-7-4v-3300mah-30c-751 Team Orion has a new one too, higher capacity, also nearly double the cost: http://www.teamorion.com/rocket-pack-v-max-lipo-4000-55c-round-led-7.6v-2s-deans.html

Miura was made. The M1 has only been made accurately for 1/12 pan car (copy of something older). There is this horrible looking 1/10th on ebay now, I don't get why they made it look that way... clearly designed in CAD. And totally agree with the Esprit. There was a 1/12 pan car of it, but not great detail.

The Muira was made in lexan.... HobbyKing had it. Occasionally they pop-up on eBay.