firefoxussr

Test drove the M06 after installing a sensored setup, lowering the ride height 1cm by removing all damper spacers, and adjusting camber. Notably better ride, all around. Brake lockup in a turn results in a predictable spin The only nagging thing is with full power on the car veers to the left, with power off it drives straight. Not sure why exactly.

I like the color and the style. Paint the filled in areas between the mesh. Looks so much better.

haha yeah, lots of european sellers, part number FAB156. http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Body-Set-PORSCHE-918-Clear-F_p_23721.html $62 dollars!! Good lawrd that's a lot of money!

My 52mph Porsche 911 GT1 shell is exactly this. The TA05 underneath is new, but the bodyshell was built by a previous owner. Aaaand I have two complete new, uncut bodies.

my driving tips: -Never worry about being behind. Not spinning and crashing are the more important focus. -Never look at the other cars to gauge your progress, only look about 10 car lengths ahead to keep from crashing into other cars. -Be analytical and calm, any sense of urgency/worry/left-behind-syndrome will put your car too deep/fast into a turn trying to keep up. the resultant spin will be far worse than fractions of a second behind. -Passing on the straights is generally not how the race is won - because you have a spec class, look for better average speed through corners than the other drivers...Average, not peak -Buy a transponder if you have a timing system where you compete - I took way too long on getting one, don't delay if you don't have one. it's indispensable for practice and tuning your car. F103/Pan-car specific: -Power off about 8 car-lengths or more before a corner, early off the power means earlier on the power when it counts -Power on only after 80% of the turn is completed until you figure out where your car bites/hooks up/etc -If turning is too violent/quick, try only putting traction compound on the inner 75% of the front tires. -Expo is very important for this type of car.... it keeps the car from exceeding it's rear-end push limit. -Assuming you are using LiPo, make sure the battery is similar in weight to the battery pack the car was designed for-- NiMh. The car seems to have trouble hooking up with a pack that weighs less than half.* *I can't overemphasize this enough. I ran my car with a undersized 2000mAH LiPo with no case... destroyed my lap times. F104s/FGX/other modern F1s can use shorty packs and the like because the chassis is designed for it... but the F103 is ruined without the weight in the right place.

The real question, is why has no one made a 1/10th McLaren P1 body? And here's your beautiful 1/10th Porsche 918. Thought about picking one up myself a time or two. http://rc.kyosho.com/en/rccar/30917t1.html

Haha yeah, that's very good fun. You should run brushless and see how much destruction you can do! I have an M04 which I fully intend to use with a non-stock body shell. Should be a lot of fun. I might make it a drift car too. I understand the center of gravity is just a bit too high on the car. Which is good for a RWD drifter. See this insanity on MST's newest drift chassis:

Yes, the not-very-smooth roadway in my neighborhood got the rims. Slightly jittery steering combined with 40mph+ speeds and rear-wheel only brakes..... it's only like the sixth time it's pitch-then-rolled. Going sensored motor until I figure out how to drive this creation. I was smart enough to not run it with the body until I had the traction figured out. Bad handling tendencies are gone, it slides at the limit. But still going 50mph and having any hint of lockup or turn will yield a flip. I'm thinking since I'm using full-size touring car tires on an M-chassis, I need to lower the center of gravity. Perhaps shorter springs.

F103s can handle better on tight carpet circuits (wide tires, shorter wheelbase). I got midpack or second more than a few times with my F103 in a crowd of some very exotic F104s. IIRC - the key is figuring out how tight to run the diff, how much pod flex to allow, and adjust your endpoints/throw and especially expo settings on your remote. Also I went to a F104 rear pod to adjust ride height, undeniable difference. Also if you're running brushless, sensored is mandatory in my mind. And learn how to brake as little as possible, plan your corner entry speeds.... RWD lockup will spin the car.

The M06 project is much closer to completion. Rubbed some paint off the wheels after a slight accident with the chassis.

Postman brought me a new inexpensive 60amp ESC on Friday. See here mounted in 911 fashion. Unfortunately I had a rear-wheel braking lockup.... The car pitched and rolled end-over-end many times. The first time I'd protected the ESC, the second time not so lucky. Not that I'm broken up about it, it was a 22usd ESC.

@SRB Bloke take some pictures, I'm sure someone can set you right. Perhaps the body posts are sitting on the wrong side of the shock tower or something. Over the weekend I test drove the chassis minus body. This went well as I've got rid of the bad handling tendencies. It does pull to the left noticeably. I also tried out a new ESC with a different motor. The motor is from my old SCT, I don't think it works well in this chassis. It is unsensored and seems to cog/lockup when braking. Not a problem on a FWD/4WD car, but on a pure RWD it can lead to a slide and then traction roll. So after destroying the ESC fan, I've decided a milder and sensored motor setup is in order until I get the hang of driving the M06. I'm using full-size touring car tires on an M-chassis, I need to lower the center of gravity. Perhaps shorter springs. [pic blocked from phtobucket] Found the drive shaft and cup. All fixed now. Sweet. [pic blocked from phtobucket] I'm still going to do this after the power system swap. All air-cooled 911s have fan noise, so let's make it functional. [pic blocked from phtobucket] ESC removed. Paint applied. [pic blocked from phtobucket] I still haven't ordered GT3 light buckets. [pic blocked from phtobucket] Plan is to swap the power system, test drive to make sure it won't insta-roll, and finish up the dual-element wing and decals.

Had a slight crash with the M06 chassis. The unsensored motor braking has a tendency to bite hard. This is about the 6th time the car has done an end-over-end flip from rear wheel lockup. With the ESC fan destroyed from the roll, i've removed it. I think I'll put a slower sensored motor and learn how to drive the car before doing a speed run. It's my first M06 and it's a bit experimental.

Engine doesn't stick out far enough. Perhaps mount the ESC back there. [pic blocked from phtobucket]

I'm a graphic designer who also does 3D renderings from CAD. I have recently worked in-house for an architect. Now I work for a company that makes beauty devices, serums, LED facemasks, etc. Used to be a mechanic during college. Now I'm progressing towards being a professional pilot, currently I'm prepping for an instrument rating test.

Envious! We can't even import these to the US yet.

thanks. the speed passion 5.5 turn motor is on sale at RCMart now btw, a great deal at 35usd.

I never can get past the price! They always seem to cost what a touring car chassis does. I did start building one for fun one day, this made it over one mile without failure while I walked with it to the park: It wasn't floating no... It was a Nikko 2WD touring car sized chassis beneath the platform.

Opted for more holes in the back, after some trial and error. It does fit in the front by enlarging the front holes a bit.

Future project stuff. Make a brushless hovercraft of my dreams.... or at least run it on 3S. And eulogize my current daily driver once I've moved on to another car (this used example happens to be the right color, and it's a 2nd gen like my car).

I'll have to try the sand for suppport. The problem I encountered was all sorts of odd flaring and tucking at the wheel arches. But it did work with a relative degree of success. Still, I'm looking to buy an uncut CLK GTR body.

Something like that, online search shows about 6000-7700Kv. funny enough it never overheats, maybe its time for a gearing change for more speed. the battery is depleted in about 15 minutes or less (3300mAh 2s) however. and yeah i lucked out on a used motor on eBay... no one bid on it... it was mine for 20usd. i recently picked up a duo of SP 17.5s and a SP 13.5 for a combined cost of... 20usd. I don't understand why people are selling them, I have run them since I started racing and not had a single failure.

I found this out this last weekend trying to hook up that sensorless motor up to the TBLE02S

@iluvmud Decepticons retreat!!!

Naaaaaahhh......I did 52mph with a 2S. But my car is not stiffly sprung, has upgraded dampers, a fast servo, a low internal ratio, 5.5 turn motor, non-stock gearing, weighs 1300g, and uses an aerodynamic body. I also am using some very fresh, very long asphalt. Really you want the lightest, most aerodynamic, and not stiffly sprung car. And solid axle cars are just evil for handling, I'd prefer my RC not have the suspension tech of an ox cart. This pic is old. See the whole 85kph/52.7mph speed run here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0E7Ulmprzpk