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blofeld

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Posts posted by blofeld


  1. The battered re-re scorcher I bought to use the chassis to make my fake ranger got its body stripped with de-solv it. 
    FD655220-FD7E-455D-B3AB-501BA7880DF0.thumb.jpeg.bb7ac20257a063d26f8f35e7dc95f9d4.jpeg
    then repaired and filled and primed and painted. Finished up today. Running body for the scorcher

    057B5D67-7A50-4520-9531-727E2C06C999.thumb.jpeg.eec477e733c77afef999331a71351a11.jpeg

    my TS- smoke can failed on me and I ruined the window so had to go full stealth. Turned out ok for a basher

    D12EFAA4-021D-4D4F-B31C-EE112B77BD51.thumb.jpeg.88ce10cd525cc287e83261076c6a69fe.jpeg

    • Like 9

  2. 10 hours ago, J@mes said:

    51069730451_410b155996_b.jpg

    Building a ‘from leftovers’ CW01 mostly standard specification, ancient servo is from a refurb project but perfect for this, the wires are bare pulled out the plug so I might splash out on crimpers and some plugs, anyone got advice on which ones & where to get?
     

    51000548170_64722940cb_b.jpg

     

    I’m  still raging that I overpaid by £1.50 for my callipers :lol:

    I was going to put a 425 Unimog body on this but I’ve changed my mind so a Kamtec LB Parma copy now on order.

     

    Nice. I fancy shortening all my servo leads at build time. Would you mind sharing what you eventually go for in terms of plugs/crimper?

    oh and to make you feel better my vernier was £8!!😂

    • Thanks 1

  3. On 3/11/2021 at 8:30 PM, Badcrumble said:

    Thanks @SupraChrgd82, I did like the XD diaphragm dampers I bought but there has been a lot of trial and error in this build (mainly error) and I had clearance issues with the fairly wide bodies of the XDs.

    Whilst the King dampers have a leaky reputation, they are nice and narrow for this body and chassis combination. 

    The existing front dampers are 90mm, carried over from the purchase of the second hand chassis. Moving to 90mm at the rear would mean I could move to stock damper mounts at the rear (rather than my attempts at making some out of Delrin - I don't really have metal working facilities or experience) and continue with my Rock Beast tyre choice.

     DSC_0128.jpg

    Is this an injora body? What chassis have you got it on?wheelbase looks great.  I have one and been wondering what to do with it. Quality for the price is impressive. 


  4. For me:

    1. Obvious but re-release the last SRB- it’s so easy all the parts are there- forget the Ford sponsorship- they would make money

    2. Blazing blazer as per prev posts as an entry level 3 speed

    3. Scale bodies ++ particularly for the CC02 chassis to really give it some presence in the scaler world (jeep jl, land cruiser, raptor, even performance SUV like Uris would be fun!) 

    4. as rtr is taking over for bashing the market for Tamiya is really the builders. We like quality and engineering and realism. There is no excuse not to have full ball race and oil shocks in every kit

    • Like 1

  5. Following with interest. 
    i have one I have been waiting to build because I can’t decide on paint! 
    found this which is a bit more black but by no means civilian

    i was thinking something like the BMW carbon black which is a lovely pearlescent blue-black  or perhaps the Italian red TS-8 for something way different 

     

    D8475F36-36F4-4E51-8387-FE4D2C50D23D.png


  6. 1 hour ago, Charles M said:

    Ive directly see that Hummer Chassis due to long arm. ( and confirmed by the rims at background) 

    I've ordered a Aluimium TA01 Motor mount, just before discover some into my Tamiya parts. 

    The Hummer Chassis is a mix betwwen TA01, TA02 and DF01. The thin drive shaft can be change for aluminum version ( ordered too ) . 

     

    About cleaning plastic parts, soap, tooth brush and hot water. Some Chemical soap is good ( CIF brand  in Europe ) as the one is used for the bathtub. Can be logical to use the same for Tamiya Bathtub ....  B)

    You can leave it for 24h into the bath ! 

    Some people use Ultrasonic machine to clean it. Never try on my side. 

     

    I've planned to transform my Hummer into a Crawler, I've open a topic about that. 

     

    Thanks! Saw your thread. Am following with interest. 
    I’ll start the cleaning then order some bits


  7. I went from this

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    To this

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    Pretty good condition other than a fractured motor mount  

    ill swap out the 27mhz and MSC but i know nothing about TA01 chassis and even less about the hummer version. Any must do mods?

    How is everyone cleaning 20yr old plastic parts these days?

     

     

    • Like 1

  8. Used. Purchased on here as a project but just don’t have time now and thanks to a recent purchase something has to go and I just don’t think I’ll get to it. These ate still difficult to come by so thought I’d give another member the opportunity

    Chassis is built, body unpainted but still has protective film

    Box a bit battered but in tact

    Includes the full kit but no ESC or radio gear/servo so in the box will be:

    Chassis unused, no scratches, like new fresh built

    540 kit motor

    Spare sprues as pictured

    Body mounts

    Window masks

    Decals

    Wheels tyres

    Driver

    Manuals for chassis and body

    I’ll disconnect bumper and body mounts for packaging which will be secure and bubble wrapped. 

    It owes me £160 so add postage or social distanced collection welcome 

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  9. 18 hours ago, Aerobert said:

    Wanted to take the Blitzer Beetle for a spin in the snow. But it was way too powdery, so Blitzer got stuck after 2 meters even with sand paddles. So I decided to give the Bullhead a go, but it also struggled and got stuck a few times so I stopped it. But at least I've got some nice picturese of it in the snow.

    IMG20210213155737_compress77.thumb.jpg.37d9461fb770cac77b3bd04ced94a990.jpg

    IMG20210213155727_compress8.thumb.jpg.aa6685d65387491ef85b246e77fd111b.jpg

    Lovely body. Is that Jconcepts?


  10. On 2/7/2021 at 7:04 PM, Mechanic AH said:

    Lol! Kinda fitting but the real thought sounds terrible :D.

    It's after wet sanding and polishing. I'm attaching a photo of what it looked like after the gloss coat (before I sanded/polished it). As you can see there's some orange peel and it bugged me (ignore the dust specks as those are loose).

    Unfortunately, it's winter here and I could never get the right finish. I've repainted and recoated this a couple times and I was never satisfied. Aside from this being my first time to paint a plastic body, I think it's not easy because of the scale. There's just so much coverage and right after I get a nice gloss on one side, it will get some slight overspray when I work on another section so it's hard to prefect. Maybe too I need an airbrush instead if canned paint. At some point I decided to proceed with sanding and polishing.

     

    Just gloss coat before wet sand and polish

    MechanicAfterHours-1040611.jpg

    After with wet sand and polish

    MechanicAfterHours-1040795.thumb.jpg.fa98b9986ce1974986591143b07a78dd.jpg

    Hard work has really paid off. I have found larger areas harder with airbrush (but I am amateur!!) so moving back to rattle cans for the base colour. 

    • Like 1

  11. 9 hours ago, Mechanic AH said:

    This hard plastic body is taking me some time (just busy at work these past few weeks) but I had time today to work on it. I think it's getting there but after this I'm going to take a break from hard plastic bodies for a while. Some "before" photos I posted before.

     

    MechanicAfterHours-1040795.jpg

    MechanicAfterHours-1040126.jpg

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    MechanicAfterHours-1040229b.jpg

    The finish is fantastic. Is that after run down and polishing or just wet coat clear ?


  12. 48 minutes ago, i_am_scarecrow said:

    I had a huge amount in my loft but all boxed up, my old display looked like this. Some I still have, some I've sold on. Sadly I sold the display cases so I'm on the hunt for more of those. 

    Screenshot_20210117_164717.jpg

    Cool! I these IKEA Detolf shelves? Do they fit all 1/10 or do you have to remove some sections?

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