drewbush

I am trying to get dimensions of the GT01 chassis, but cant seem to find actual measurements other than the body. More specifically this kit http://www.tamiyausa.com/items/radio-control-kits-30/1-12-tamtech-gear-kit-30200/rc-tt-gear-porsche-turbo-rsr-57101 I want to know- -wheelbase from center of axle to center of axle( front to rear) -track width front and rear- preferably from outer edge of tire to opposite side outer edge. I am trying to see if this chassis will work with a 1/12 body I have. Thanks, Drew

Hows the fit and finish of the 3D printed parts? Ive seen other accessory parts that people have made and am not sure about the rigidty of the plastic material versus injection molded.

Well, tear down is complete. And I musy say its not looking good. If that parts not broken off, the screw holes are torn out or cracked badly. I ran this like my modern Associated SC10, but the Box was never designed for that much abuse. I'll give her that she held up, but time has seen to catch up with her. All suspension attachment points and components are damaged in some way. You can see the rubbing from the arms on the tub, also the hole on the right edge of the tub is broken. The pieces that are in the best shape are the gears, and they show almost no signs of wear, even though it looks like there was very little grease if any. So this might turn into a parts vehicle, need to clean all the parts and see how bad each piece really is. If not, I will probably part it out in the classifieds. Ugh.

Well I finished up my Bolink clean-up, and decided to jump right into the next one. Backstory- My dad bought this for me back in the 80's. I built it up and beat the stuffing out of it. The last time I remember playing with it a firend and me used it for target practice with our paint guns. I know, it should never had been done, but we were kids and having a good time. Anyways, as it sits in a box, half apart and broken. That color is flourecent pink and black, the picture doesnt show it. But it will make your eyes hurt in direct sunlight. I know its in horrible disrepair(broken and missing parts), and a new re-re can be had for $100US. But this was mine from the start and a big project. Update as the progression continues....

Well tore it down and put it back together as far as it will go without electronics or body. I might just leave the body uncut, I am horrible at cutting and painting bodies, and since this one is no longer available, I think I will leave it off. Chassis torn down, electronics removed. cleaned and back together This went from start to finish faster than expected. Mostly due to the limited amounts of components and screws. Also all the non-fiber parts were tossed in the ultrasonic cleaner. Super fast clean up of all parts. If you dont have one, I highly suggest you get one if you spend time cleaning and maintaining your fleet.

So I have been jumping from one resto to the next without ever finishing them, kind of get burned out on one. So putting one on hold and startin the next keeps the excitement going. So I dug out my Bolink from the garage. I bout this thing new way back when, probably around 93-94. Always loved the GMC Syclone and Typhoon, always wanted one but could never afford one. So this was the most logical step for me. I built it up and used spare electronics from other vehicles. Never painted the body. So I decided to dust her off and do a complete tear down and rebuild.

Does anyone have a valid part number for the body? Tamiyausa list a number that is not valid and I cant find anyone listing the pick up body for sale. I would love to have that one in my collection for a future project.

Aprreciate that Shodog, I was able to take the best from 2 chassis and make one. The big key was cleaning the parts. I had tried apc(all purpose cleaner) that we had at work. I scrubbed the **** out of all the parts. But then I got a ultrasonic cleaner, and man does that make the difference in getting parts spotless. ****- is c r a p ^^^^ not anything bad.

Well I thought I would update my progress with some pics. I appreciate everyone help and the other memebers that posted pics of there own so I can compare and see how it should look. My only issue is the previous owner had knocked out a section of the battery compartment on the opposite side of the regulaor opening.

I have been going through the same searches for 2s LiPo's. My main goal was for it to fit my M05 chassis, that way if I want ot run it in the Tamiya Series, it would be legal. I have read reviews that say the Turnigy, Reedy Wolfpack, Orion Rocket and a few others fit, but this weekend I was at the RCX sxpo here in Orange County and did some battery hunting. I came across one vendor that had is own line of batteries called Prime R/C. Stick pack size hardcase lipo. He told me Orion made these for him and he just labels them for himself. $30 for a 4500 45c Lipo isnt bad, so I gave it a shot. It does fit the M series cars with a little bit of tension on the battery clip. Its not bending it, just a real snug fit. It will NOT fit my Porsche 959, will NOT fit my TA02. It does fit my TT02. So it looks like newer style chassis or ok. I compared the over all length, and its just over 1/4 in longer than a standard Nimh that fits. Hope that helps a bit.

Willy- I think you are dead on. I just looked at the manual onine for the celica, step 20 shows the different arms with the added tabs. Thanks for the quick reply.

Hello, I am a newer member to this site, been lurking for a long time. So I decided to combine a quick intro with some questions regarding a couple of 959's I purchased a while ago off of the Bay. I started building and driving Tamiyas back in the early 80's. orignally with the Frog(my only vehicle I never kept). Then onto a RC10 a year later, a few years after that I got a Lunchbox. then into the 90's kind of dropped out of the hobby. Started back up in the late 90's with a TA02 skyline. Boxed those all up in the early 2000's and only in the last few years started thinking about getting them all back to running condition. Fastforward up to now, and I have since been buying vintage cars that I once owned or dreamed about gettig as a kid. On to the questions. So I picked up a lot of 2 959's of the bay, both in a "somewhat complete" state. Of course the description was slightly vague and the pictures were not crystal clear, but since there was a buy it now of $200 for both, I decided it was a chance to take. This was the auction. http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Vintage-Tamiya-58059-Porsche-959-Rally-Rc-Car-1-12-4wd-chassis-USED-/201063279849?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT&_trksid=p2047675.l2557&nma=true&si=GJJwAb19%252BLpVvaininjv4D7gkIU%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc#ht_35wt_1365 Cars arrived and of course under inspection there were more of the typical broken parts(ie. lower front arm, rear body mount post, cracked lower knuckles, broken front diff housing,and a really nice home-made driveshaft with cv joints) that were never really disclosed. So stripped them down and am going through the components cherry picking the best ones for a resto project, leftovers for a runner and find different versions of the front suspension components. You can see the added tabs on the ends, I assume it is a steering stop since the front uprights also have a tab on them. So my question is, I assume the tabs are a later version added in later production,or am I completely off base? Question #2- what were the lengths of the rear camber links for the 3 different positions? I assume I will have more questions as the restoration continues, so I might just add them in replies to this thread instead of creating a new one each time. Appreciate any info that you guys can enlighten me with. Thanks, Andrew