drewbush
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Posts posted by drewbush
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I also save old trimmings and will do test sprays with different colors i have. I will also do a second spray out but with a dark color behind it, to change the shading. Then I label them, so I new what combo it was. Kind of over kill, but I have a stack of color samples now to match up.
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I was looking at doing this swap with the type2 body (i bought the body kit because it was too cool to not own for a later project). The closest chassis I could find (if I remember, it was a few years ago), was the Tamtech chassis. Wasnt perfect, but close.Plus they had the porsche bbs style wheels.
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Thanks for the confirmation. I checked the clip and its tight. This one is probably not going to be run again. Just going to set on the shelf for now. So I just wanted to make sure before re-assembling.
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Hello everyone, havent been on in a few years(several computers and lost logins ago). Anyways finally got back on and am in the process of restoring my old Wild Willy M38. Does anyone have any pics or can tell me if I have re-assembled the clutch gear properly? Its on page 8 step 17 in the manual and its a pre-assembled unit. But some how it looks to have been disassembled. The pic in the manual only shows a partial angle and I cant see if how its assembled completely.
These are the pieces I assume are it
And this is how I figure it should go back together. Can anyone confirm before I complete the gearbox?
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Found this page- look at second post. Hope that fixes it.
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As I remember reading that the instructions had a piece flipped the wrong way in the illustrations. I will try to find the info. Also check out rc10talk.com. That's where I remember reading it.
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Also consider the environment you will be running in, are you going to the local car park and racing around with friends, or considering about going to a dedicated smooth tarmac track? Lots of the low slung chassis cars will scrape and drag on rough tarmac, but on something like a tennis court they really do fly. The only reason I ask is, you might drop a decent bit of cash into a carbon chassis and end up rashing it on a not so smooth street.
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Thanks for the reply. I was measuring evryone I could find and this is what I came up with:
qty4- 8x22x7
qty4- 5x11x4
qty2- 3x7x3
qty4- 5x8x2.5 flanged(technically the old bushings measure 5x8x4, but those are not available).
Can anyone confirm these before I order them up? There only a buck a piece on avidrc.com So Im not to worried about cost.
Thanks
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I have been searching but unable to come up with a master list of all bearings needed to convert my M38 over to full bearings. Im looknig to try and get a list of all bushings and sizes to get it road worthy. Besides the 4 22x8 bearings in the wheels, what else have people replaced? ie. trans and axle bushings.
Thanks,
Drew
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Wow its on rc10.com for $199.99us. That's way lower than it ever sold at in the large retailers.
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I haven't used ps61, but I have used ps21(fluorescent red). It's the one for the porsche rsr body. The color is bright with a white backing. But what I did to test it, cut off a scrap piece of lexan body, about the size of s business card. And test spray it, all ps61, mask off half and spray with a backing of each color. That way you can see how it looks in the light. I started doing this with all my cans of paint. That way I have a reference color already in a "swatch", sort of like going to the paint store and they have hundreds of color samples in a ring to match the right one.
I will post pics when I can dig my samples out and show you what I mean.
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there coupons are always listed on there home page. At least everytime ive ever looked for them. There prices are on average still the best in the US as far as chain stores go, and usually you cand get free shipping and no tax. So those combined with the coupons is a no brainer. Sure you can get a lexan bodyset on ebay for cheaper, but then you need to wait 2 weeks to get it out of China.
This is my experience from the US, maybe different in other parts of the world.
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Also the worlds has been updated with newer sized wheels to accommodate the newer tire sizes. It's also designed to take lipo batteries.
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The rc10 classic is not really available in stores(try ebay). But the re-re rc10 worlds still is available, you get more bang for your buck. The worlds does not come with tires or a shell, so that's a few more items you would need to buy.
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Your other option could have been to spray it with Tamiya fine primer on the top and paint it like it was an original white plastic piece.
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Welcome to the club. I worked as a tech for Mercedes Benz for 13years. I like your screen name. My MBUSA # mb1057903.
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Love the build. I had the same hard time finding drill bits in metric sizes. I'm even a porsche tech and not one of our tool trucks that come by the shop carry metric drill bits. So I ordered a set of tamiya bits of ebay. Relatively cheap and fast shipping. This seller is located in SoCal, so it might ship fast to you in the north.
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=221458015431
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Okay, gotcha. Can you still post up a pic of the body? I have a lunchbox that's paint neon pink and black that I need to strip.
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Which kit number are you building? Also how did the lexan turn out after soaking in brake fluid? Could you post up a pic? I have an old skyline body I wont to strip and restore back to original and dont want to try b. fluid if its going to damage the lexan.
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4- RC10s- 1 I bought in 85(A stamp), another "A" stamp runner, also have the re-re classic and the re-re worlds(both still NIB)
1- team associated SC10 4x4- the dog chaser, he begs me to drive it in the yard while he tries to rip the tires off.
1- team associated SC18 brushless- the other dog chaser, but my littlest dog prefers the SC10.
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I have a team associated sc18 brushless. I like vehicles that are more realistic to scale, versus the super oversized suspension and wheels. The brushless set up is surprisingly fast and that with a lipo battery, it will run for 30min. The only real downside is that it doesn't do well on longer grass or rough roads. And by longer grass, I'm taking you just cut it yesterday. So it's better on smooth surfaces or short carpet. Wood and tiles are ok, but it will slide and burnout constantly with the brushless setup. Fun to chase the dog around the house.
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Took my M05 to the TamiyaUSA track for the first time and first run on that chassis, pretty embarassing.
I was the only one on a silver can, and being a track virgin, I was lapped really quick. Doesnt help when my steering horn kept falling off and I had to retrieve it from the track. Time to start getting the upgrades and start building my TA06. -
Well technology and manufacturing specs have gotten alot better since then. I use avid rc bearings in all my vehicles. They have different styles to choose from, ie all metal, rubber on one side to protect from dirt, and even ceramic. Plus its a dollar a piece(ceramic is like 5 bucks), and shipping is free over $50 i think. They ship fast.
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Thanks Twinset. That works for me, its odd that the tamiyausa website list no specs on the chassis at all. And my google searching never got me to that page. Appreciate the info.
I was the only one on a silver can, and being a track virgin, I was lapped really quick. Doesnt help when my steering horn kept falling off and I had to retrieve it from the track. Time to start getting the upgrades and start building my TA06.
Building a proper SCALE lunchbox or VW T1 samba kombi
in General discussions
Posted
Your right on the width. I was originally looking at the gt01 thought maybe about sectioning the chassis to get it to fit right. But I dont want to cut up a good chassis.