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About Darat76

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  • Location
    Christchurch, New Zealand
  • Interests
    Off road RC racing, RC building and tweaking, video gaming

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  1. given that the cheapest tank kit in NZ that I've heard of is over 500 quid new, I'm not inclined to agree, least for my neck of the woods, shipping wouldn't be to bad, customs on the other hand would be a tad punishing, but that still wouldn't stop me, what does is stop me is the fact I can't afford a pint at the local....
  2. I want, but the cheapest beer budget will never stretch that far....
  3. I think power packs for phones and other USB chargeable devices, the battery in the pack is a 1s lipo, not 2s, as usb voltage is 5v out as for the power packs that can jump start a car motor, they could be 2s lipo with a voltage booster, or a straight 3s lipo
  4. I can remember that... can't remember the words tho...
  5. I see you brought the limited edtion 60 mph air con Australian version, prolly should have gone for the up spec'd kiwi version as it does also come with a heater that will keep you warmish...
  6. the first pic reminded me of those massive body builders with small heads....
  7. you need a reason to buy more tools?
  8. I have found black speed disc rims, i believe these to be the same size as the standard tamiya buggy rims, tho tbh, I haven't measured them, nor compared them to the star dish wheels I have...
  9. thunder dragon/shot rims are actually the same diameter as the stock TC/onroad rims, but are roughly twice the width of a stock TC rim, as such to find tyres to suit the thunder dragon/shot rims you will have to start looking at 1/16th scale or smaller stadium truck (do not be confused with short course truck) or monster truck tyres. I started to do this recently, but have hit a brick wall as the large majority of small scale cars here are run on carpet, and carpet tyres aren't that great for running on outdoor surfaces...
  10. the tl-01 b can fit the speed tuned gear set, but the gear set comes with the warning of not to be used with the buggy variant, or the rally one due to the increase of wheel diameter the buggy star dish wheels both versions use
  11. if the diff is not sealed you'll find that oil all through the gearbox, with next to none left in the diff after a varied amount of runs/time passage
  12. If your hankering for something more, pick up a competition spec SCT, they come in 2wd and 4wd, so long as you stay in the 1/10th scale it will survive even more than the lunchbox can. the 4wd sct's are mostly based on 1/8th scale buggy chassis's, so they are quite heavy, and generally tend to bounce off stuff rather than break parts. I'm feeling like a broken record the following statement, get down to your nearest local club track on a club meet day, there you can pick some racers brains to find out what websites they frequent regarding racing, from there you should be able to find people that are upgrading to a new kit and selling off their old one. it does pay to look over anything you find, as there are some racers that don't look after their gear, but most will put new fluids in the shocks and diffs, and replace worn or broken parts before selling. A mate of mine has 2 nephews, he sold his team associated 2wd RTR SCT to them almost a year ago, the boys have been having a blast with it, so far they have worn out 1 pair of front tyres, and 2 pairs of rear tyres, no other parts have been needed. that said it's on my bench needing the plugs re-soldered on both the battery and esc, as both boys don't listen and pull on the wires instead of the plug.
  13. I haven't dealt with that truck directly, but I have dealt with a couple of it's sister brands being HSP and hobby wind. those brands are cheap for a reason, all the plastics, and I mean all of the plastics, are weak, after seeing what you have put your lunch box through, I know your runs with it will be stopped by a breakage of some form, or the loss of a part. Parts are plentiful, as are the alloy parts for them. The monster truck I had got fitted with a lot of alloy parts, it did help to reduce the amount of parts needed to replacing a dog bone or 2 every run, the uni's are of such bad designing and poor quality that the pivot pin grub screw won't hold the pin, which would then start to come out, which cut grooves in the axle hubs. The alloy upgrades themselves are very soft, and the leading edges on the lower arms will get a lot of nicks and dings in them when running over gravel, particularly the rear ones, and although the alloy parts don't break to easily, they do bend stupidly easy. The only part I didn't replace in the MT I had was the gears and prop shaft, but I had it for about 6 months before swapping it with a mate for his nitro short course truck to get him out of nitro into electric, and then sold that with a nitro stadium truck to get out of nitro myself. He found the problem with the uni's, and also found that the shells tend to shatter instead of flex from just tipping over onto the roof on the back lawn, he was not happy when that happened to his brand new body on it's second run. In short, if your planning to run it with a silver can, on a nimh, at no more than half speed, with no jumping, and running on grass or dirt only, then the truck should do ok. If your after 5-15 minutes of fun with laughs before having to order in and wait for new parts, then go with the brushless version on a lipo and have at it. If you do go ahead with the purchase, just remember, it will never ever handle what a lunch box can handle, just like the lunch box will never ever handle like those MT's
  14. this is the down side to cheaper cars, yes they provide a lot of fun, yes they are cheap to buy, and yes they are cheap to repair, but ordering replacement parts after every run, or every other run, quickly adds the cost up, also having to replace parts often becomes annoying and tedious, so the fun factor starts to dissipate quickly....
  15. @ThunderDragonCy have you looked at all the different FWD and 4WD C-hubs to find one that will fit the lower arm mount? Finding one will allow the use of the steering knuckles from the same chassis, combined with either standard dog bone wheel axles, or M chassis free wheel axles, you can have 12mm hex wheels on the front with close to the original front wheel track. I found DF-02 parts work with the blitzer front arms, admittedly using those parts does increase the caster/king pin angle on the front, have yet to finish doing the change over, need to look at the parts I have and work out why I haven't done it yet...
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