Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by bsy2010

  1. Thanks @Percymon, seen this before as well. But can't figure out where the battery minus is going
  2. Hi there, I've checked everywhere else, and didn't get much info, so I try here... From my old racing days (long, long time ago), I still have this CS Rocket 6, without cables and no idea where to put motor and battery. Maybe someone here has the same ESC and share a picture, or, someone might have the old data sheet for me. I already asked CS in Germany, but they didn't keep any records Thanks for your help
  3. One for the Manta Ray, one for a Hotshot
  4. Cleaned a used Manta Ray and started cleaning my Procat
  5. Here's a link that might help you to calculate the distance between gears. http://scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/gear_calc.html
  6. drain cleaner usually works for me
  7. Got some color and decals on my MST Wrangler project
  8. You're right, the parts for the 267mm wheelbase are not included, but easy to make yourself. The length should be 60,5 and 72,5mm. The bearings required are: 16x 5x10x4 2x 8x12x3,5 4x 10x15x4 Princing on the kit is more or less the same everywhere... You could get it at rcroller.com for 199$ plus shipping, which ends up at more or less the same price as Tamico and all the others are asking for. rcteam.fr is cheap as well, but they are out of stock right now. Regarding the Land Rover shell... Certainly a nice body, but with 280 mm wheelbase you might have to think about other drive shafts. With the stock ones, I wouldn't go longer than 267mm. Also, even at 267mm, the servo is going to hit the crossmember up front and you would need new shock mounts, as the mounting points on the axles require pretty straight shocks. Edit: already doing a build thread in a German forum
  9. I'm currently building one of those (got the bodyless kit just after Christmas) with a modified Tamiya Wrangler body. The bodies included are 100% Tamiya bodies, just as MST does it for their drift cars. And while the technology of the CMX is very close to a SCX/Ascender, the very narrow width and the short wheelbase is pretty unique, unless you want to spend more than twice on a RC4WD SWB kit. Quality is very, very good, MST is using some of the nicest plastic I have seen in the last 30 years working on rc stuff. Parts are fitting perfectly, screws are good quality, everything feels very solid and the tires perform very well (and would be a great upgrade for all the CC-01 owners out there). Only thing I didn't like: just like Tamiya, they didn't include any ball bearings in the kit.
  10. Sorry, I don't have the original arms anymore
  11. It's been a while since I worked on the Mad Bull (and drove it), so I can't remember all the details. But here's the original setup (with some spacers to reduce slop) As you can see, the standard arms are very close together, probably the front would be too narrow with the DT-03 arms. Also, the angle would be a bit weird
  12. I have to admit that I don't drive any of my models too often, so I can't say much about longevity/crash resistance. Performance is great, although I changed the front shocks to something shorter. Why I did it this way? No idea, made sense at the time and I wanted to make it different than anyone else and use as many standard parts as possible. Today, I would make a more elegant solution for the upper arms and add better mount points on the chassis, probably some 3D printed stuff.
  13. Thank you, Silver-Can I certainly follow SHY69's threads as well, but unlike him, I have no intention to compete with my cars - I might not even drive them at all I just love building, keeps me from going nuts after a 70 hour week
  14. The first Tamiya I've ever seen was my Super Champ I got for my 13th birthday in '83. Never even heard about Tamiya before that, only knew Graupner and Robbe. But my dad thought a Tamiya kit would be best for me to start.
  15. Correct, I basically copied the upper arm of the Boomerang in 3D. Maybe I can check whether is fits the original outshot setup as well. I believe the toe-in of the Boomerang arms is 1 degree, but this is just what I have seen in this forum somewhere. I started with Sketchup, moved to 123D Design and once I have some time to install a virtual Windows on my Mac, I fire up my Solid Works license - a friend used to work for one of their resellers and should be able to help me getting started.
  16. I just got into the 3D world myself and it was tough in the beginning... But very satisfying to see some progress now I thought about adding the Hotshot info, but I have converted the rear suspension to Boomerang parts and the Shapeways parts might not fit the standard Hotshot.
  17. Thank you Lots of ideas, very little time... And, yes, the stuff is available on Shapeways (see link below, thank you @Finman) and this is how it looks in black (on a Hotshot, I needed an additional spacer, not too sure how it'll fit on a Boomerang)
  18. My 3D printed wing mounts for my Schumacher Procat resto project finally arrived
  19. Got it from Banggood and they have all electronics too
  20. My second 3D printed part arrived from Shapeways today, as I wanted to have fully adjustable geometry. Works pretty good, only minor adjustments are necessary in the design. Ans of course, it needs to be black
  21. Don't give up too soon... My background is similar to yours, Photoshop user since v1.08 and the first time I opened FreeCad and Blender, I had no idea where to beginn. I switched to Sketchup and AutoDesk 123d and got my first 3 parts printed very quickly. Still have to learn a lot, but at least I got my first results, which motivated me to continue
  22. You just gave me the silly idea of creating a 3D TRF badge, to replace the front stabilizer mount... [emoji12]
  • Create New...