HugoW

I have eliminated everything. But there is a theory on another (Dutch) forum I visit. The Rx is happy on 8,4V. But it might use it's base voltage as signal voltage, too. If a BEC is used, the signal voltage is lowered, too, and the ESC is happy. Without the BEC, the signal voltage is too high. The 101, being very basic and robust, is not very sensitive to this. The problem-101 only bugs on a full pack, the other one doesn't mind at all. Probsbly due to factory tollerances, which were very wide on these items. The 105 being more modern and sensitive does mind, a lot. So tonight I will hopefully make a little cable between Rx and ESC cable, with two resistors soldered in in series. They will split the signal voltage for me, I will try 3/4 split (resistor between negative and ESC signal wire 3 times the value of the one between the signal wires of the ESC and the Rx). This way, signal voltage at full pack should be 6,1V, at very empty pack still 4,8. That should bring the ESCs back in their comfort zone. I hope... Hugo

I'm going nuts. I took a TEU-105BK out of my son's car, put it in mine, and it works. But it has a BEC, which I don't want because I have a HV servo and the BEC has very limited capacity. So I cut the plus wire from the ESC to the receiver, and connected it to the positive terminal of the battery. Turned everything on again, and the problem is back with a vengeance! What is that?!? I tried every possible combination of ESC, motor and receiver, and even tried it with and without servo connected. The original 101 has a small stalling problem, the 105 without using the BEC has a big stalling problem, the 101 from my other car has no problem in any set-up. The 105 with the BEC reinstated also works flawless. I guess I must be thick or something, but I don't get it... Hugo

I did a test a few months ago, it pulled 24A on 25/55 gearing. Nothing major. The ESC is rated 60A. Hugo

I have Tamiya Cup standard, the carson cup machine in both cars. The M-06 runs the longest gearing standard available, 20T pinion. The TT-01, with the problem, ran a very tall 27/55 when the problem first ocoured. Now I have 24/58 in the car, for the narrow indoor track. http://www.carson-modelsport.com/de/produkte/elektronik/elektromotoren/produktdetails.htm?sArtNr=500906052 Hugo

Hi guys, thanks for the input. @GregM; I have reprogrammed the ESC / transmitter settings a few times to try, to no avail. I drove the car in the dark on the street yesterday without the body on. this way I can see the Rx keeps working (lights change when it restarts due to low voltage). The ESC gives a red light at full throttle, but it does so all the time at full throttle, not only when it faulters. I don't use low voltage protection, I feel I don't need it. I race 5, 7 or 10 minute heats, and the batteries last about 17 minutes. When I practice I also set a 10 minute timer. The packs are discharged about 1800 to 2200mAh after 10 minutes, depending on the track. I have 4200 packs, so I am safe. @Backlash; I will try to swap ESCs between the cars. But the load in the cars is very different. I have the feeling an overload is too sensitive. At 8,4V (fresh charge pack) the current is going slightly higher then at regular 7,4V. In the M-06, the short gearing and low traction keep it away from the higher currents, on the 4wd TT-01 I use higher gearing and of course it has more grip as it has twice as many drive wheels. So swapping might not give a clear outcome. @tonysmini; yes! I have no on-off button anymore, changed to 4mm gold connectors to the battery and the motor wires are soldered to the motor terminals, no connectors. It really has been optimised. I might just buy a new ESC and bypass the BEC to keep the high voltage for my servo. It seems the TEU-302BK is quite a good but expensive item... Cheers, and merry Christmas where applicable, Hugo

Hi guys, I have chosen to use the old 101 in my cup racers. I don't use any BEC, my servo, receiver, transponder and fan are all rated to used the higher voltage. So I thought I had a pretty simple set-up. On my M-06 the set-up works flawless. It runs smooth and fast. If I ever learn to stear, it migth be a good racer. On my TT-01 however, there is a flaw. When the lipo is fully charged (2S, of course) the accelleration is not good. I can either accellerate slowly, or it stops and restarts a few times. Not the controller, but the drive. When I drive a few laps, the problem goes away. Is the higher voltage a problem? The 101 is still from the NiCAD age, I presume. But why does it work in the M-06? Maybe the load is lower in that car? Any input is appreciated, Cheers, Hugo

Hi, thanks for the advice. I am working with AW grease in the front dif, now, for a bit of a spool effect. Rear is spinning freely. I have this servo: BMS-631MG Super Fast Servo (Metal Gear) 5.0kg / .10sec / 46gIt is only half the power of the one you use, it is quick but only a little more power than the 3003. I will look for more power in there. Cheers, Hugo

Hi, thanks, I found that one, too, googling. Infortunately he uses many non-Tamiya hop-ups, so I am not allowed to copy that. BTW, the biggest change in roll resistance came from sanding down and shimming the cone gear driving the difs. Out of the box they run way too tight. Hugo

Hi, my first post here, and I am looking forward to all your advise from experience! Earlier this year I decided to put my RC pylon racing airplanes aside as I had no time to practice. And my 5 your old son is interested in cars, so I decided to bring my old TT-01 drift car down from the attic and convert it to a racer, to take part in the Dutch Tamiya Cup, in the Top Stock class. Basically, I can use all Tamiya Hop Ups availabe, the motor is a Carson Cup Machine supplied by the race organizers on racing day. What I did in the first place was: - Fit toe-in rear uprights, plastic. - Fit adjustable camber arms at the rear, plastic. - Alu centre shaft. - All bal bearings, of course. - 2S Lipo (I should buy new better ones...) - The car runs a TEU-101BK ESC, and I fitted a UBEC for the Rx. - I have 42168 spring set on 50746 dampers (not all springs at the same time...) - I have various pinions and spur gears, so I can tune to specific circuits. Most circuits are long, here, for nitro cars too, so I use 25/55 ratio. - Last thing I can think of is I changed the BMW Z4 body for a Ferrari 458 and spoiler kit, which is more stable at speed. So, I went racing and I do all right. Even came third in last event (out of 6), with a car that is slower and less well handling than the other cars on track. Time to have a look at the vehicle. At first I was the slowing factor, now it seems the car is. I found something significant and corrected it: I gained 3 mph top speed from doing that! Now I am looking for more ideas to make the car better handling, faster, you name it. I have no clue about setting up the dampers and springs, yet. Also I consider sway bars, although I don't see others using them. Anyway, thanks for reading, all input is appreciated. Cheers, Hugo