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  1. Thank you RMR110 for the suggestions. Very much appreciated. -- Jeff
  2. Thanks for the reply BangkokBulldog. I think you may be right about not trying to put the motor in my SRB. It'll probably give me more headaches than fun. And thanks for the headsup about the F104. As I get back into my RC cars I'm discovering I'm very naïve about brushless motors and gear ratios. Finding gears to give me ratios recommended by Tamiya is very hard. I may just sell these new motors and buy what you suggest. Thank you again for the reply. -- Jeff
  3. Thanks for the reply Greg. The brushless motor does fit the gearbox, I would just need to drill an extra hole wide enough for the sensor cable and the third wire coming from the motor. I've been searching for gears to give me the 9:1 ratio but I'm not finding any. But now I've discovered a new problem. I originally bought the motor for my F104W but the box says its not suited for the F104 chassis. And because of that it doesn't give any ratio suggestions. I'm a bit disappointed by the fact that TamiyaUSA offered this new motor without specs of what it would fit or not fit. I fear I may be out the $136 I paid TamiyaUSA to get this newly released motor. The lesson for me here is to do more homework before making purchases like these. -- Jeff
  4. I recently picked up a TBLM-02S 10.5T brushless motor. I want to try putting it in my Buggy Champ but the instructions suggest a gear ratio of 9:1. Are there gears out there that give me this ratio and fit under the gear cover? If so, what's a good place to buy these type of gears? -- Jeff
  5. BACKLASH: Thank you so much for the wonderfully in-depth description. That is some very valuable information. Thanks again. -- Jeff
  6. Wow! Thank you all very much for the great information and the links. I think I'll just stick to the Tamiya ESC 105 for the time being. ALFAGTA: To answer your question about which charger I have, I have the Hobby People Activator 50 AC/DC 6A Multi-Chemisty Cycler. Unfortunately it doesn't have a balance connector that will fit my LF batteries. Because of this I purchased a Tamiya LF-6.6V Battery DC Charger. The Tamiya charger works well enough. Again, thank you everyone for the replies. -- Jeff
  7. I am considering getting Tamiya's ESC TEU-302 and according to Tamiya, "This item will run LiPo's but has no LiPo cutoff." I currently have Tamiya 6.6V LF 1100 and 2200 batteries and I'm a bit naïve when get comes to the different types. I also have a Hobby People battery charger that charges many different types but no indication it charges LF batteries and I'm not completely confident I'm choosing the correct setting when charging them. What kind of batteries are Tamiya 6.6V LF batteries? Are they LiPo? (Tamiya's website about these batteries leave a lot to be desired in terms of info.) Does "cutoff" mean exactly what it implies–– the RC car stops running when the batteries reach a certain voltage? So if it doesn't have a "cutoff" the RC car will continue until the batteries are dead, which is bad, right? If the batteries are not LiPo, will the TEU-302 ESC cutoff for Tamiya's LF batteries? I hope I'm making sense. I appreciated any feedback about the ESC and LF batteries. -- Jeff
  8. I, too, have the Tamiya LF Battery charger and a few LF1100 and LF2200 batteries. Do I risk damaging the batteries if I plug in the balancing connector with every charge? -- Jeff
  9. Thank you SHODOG, I didn't even think about the hubs being removeable to accommodate different wheels. That is absolutely logical and makes total sense. Now I just need to learn to think outside the box more often. Thanks again, SHODOG. Cheers. -- Jeff
  10. While recently playing with my Buggy Champ my rear tire came off in a vacant dirt field. Obviously the wheel nut wasn't tightened enough, but I discovered the small steel pin that goes through the rear shaft and fits inside the back of the wheel hub fell out, too, followed by the wheel hub. As a kid I didn't remember this happening to my Rough Rider, so I pulled it out and took a look at it and sure enough the wheel hub is permanently attached to the rear shaft. I'm curious... Why would Tamiya make this particular design change? To me, it would seem the old design is the better one for two reasons. 1) The hub and shaft/axle are one piece with no small parts to lose. Also, no extra loose play from the u-joint to the wheel. 2) With it being one piece, you're able to tighten the wheel nut much more, preventing the nut from loosening. On the new design, the nut can only tighten to a point before the wheel will no longer turn. So again, why this design change? I can't imagine it was to save money. -- Jeff
  11. Thank you folks for the replies. All three of you make very good points. GREGM, the plastic gears are not weak but rather I was asking to see if this was something I should be concerned about down the line. I'll definitely look into replacing the alloy pinion, though. SMOOTHEE, thank you for the heads up about the brass gear in the Super Champ. I'll look for one as a possible replacement down the line. MOKEI, your point about if it's really necessary to replace the gears when running with mild motors is well taken. I'll just be playing with the SRBs on a nearby dirt field and not really racing them so maybe I'm just overly concerned about these gears for no reason. Thanks again, guys. -- Jeff
  12. In the gearbox of a re-release Sand Scorcher or Buggy Champ, has anyone replaced the 2 nylon gears (the Final Gear and the Counter Gear) with stronger, metal-type gears? If so, where can I find these type of gears? I am not looking to go with the Hopup Differential but rather just replace the gears. -- Jeff
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