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Truck Norris

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About Truck Norris

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    North Wales, UK

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  1. Yes, item number 12504 "Motor Racing Team Tool Set"
  2. Has it got XD blocks on both the fore and aft mounts on the rear? If so, that'll be your problem. There aft/rearmost block is normally wider than the front to give toe-in. The wheelbase measurements are given with the toe-in. If you remove it by fitting the same blocks to both then the wheelbase will increase as the arms are moved parallel to the chassis. I built an FF-03 with a standard 257mm wheelbase and no rear toe-in but it took a bit of fiddling and probably won't work if you're using body posts, but I'll explain just in case. From here: https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=133142&id=43050
  3. Just stuck to the outside like normal Build thread for that car here:
  4. 911 related - made a set of matt window trims for the above 993 GT2 for J@mes:
  5. Some tools, paints, airbrush quick coupler and a second attempt at a kit I built back around 1989. It's very basic but I'm interested to see how good a job I can do compared to back then.
  6. They haven't stopped doing the brown boxes with artwork, but they are Japan (and maybe HK, Taiwan) only now: Not sure why, maybe to do with shipping volumes?
  7. Finished this Celica body. Showroom entry: https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=134343&id=43050
  8. It's done! Unlike the later cars where the light buckets are stuck on with tape, and the wings with rubber o-rings and body clips, final assembly for this involves lots of small nuts and screws. As the body set came without them, I made a list and located the same hardware. Buying bag D for the Sand Scorcher provided the majority of them, with just the nuts and screws for the driver heads needed additionally. As I didn't have a chassis to use for the photos, I replicated the kind of shot seen in the Tamiya Guide Books, with the finished body laid out with a selection of different paint types, markers and brushes: I like the inside to be as neat as the outside: More pics in my showroom: https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=134343&id=43050 Yep, already on my shopping list!
  9. Helmet trims painted. Rather than TS cans I used the manual specified XF-1 as I now have an airbrush: The faces are brush painted and the eyes done with a cocktail stick. As with seemingly every Tamiya face moulding, this method annoyingly gives one perfectly round pupil and one not so round. I fitted the steering wheel and dashboard sticker so the cockpit is now finished: One final bit of painting then it's on to assembly. The mirror needs the reflective surface painted silver, not the whole surface though, there's a border. I cut some circular masks for this. First up is one the same diameter as the mirror to ensure it's central: Then a couple of larger ones to guard against overspray, plus tape over the back: Previously I would have had to use the TS equivalent or close match to the manual specified X-11 Chrome Silver, and waist a ton of paint spraying such a small area. Not any more though - airbrushed X-11:
  10. Stickers done. As expected these are the most frustrating part of these vintage builds - the glue isn't great so a few corners needed a tiny bit of superglue to stay down - specifically the red number 3 and 4 stickers that end just at the top of the doors below the door windows. Like the 959 they don't shrink with heat, and they also come up a little short in places. Cockpit details brush painted and the black tidied up. The pic was taken in my new spray booth with LED lighting so it's a bit clearer and less shadowy than the other pics taken with the bits on carpet. Helmets masked for the black trim. I'm using a combination of Masking Tape for Curves and regular Tamiya tape, the faces are masked with white tack, it doesn't need to be that accurate as the faces will be brush painted flesh, so it's just to cover the eyes really (which will remain gloss white):
  11. Airbrush booth with LED lighting and external ducting, ABC Hobby 0.5mm panel line tape as the Kyosho 0.4mm I use hasn't been available anywhere for ages. Alfa 155 wheels, complete with £5.99 price labels (these were a lot more than that!)
  12. Nice of you to say so! For just doing lexan shells then no, there's no need. I do a lot of styrene stuff though - the interior sets, roll cages, and an increasing number of small parts like bonnet pins, electric cutoff switches etc. I don't like the finish from brush painting and using a can wastes a lot of paint. I also want to be able to paint indoors through the winter (spray booth on the way) and it will also help with painting mixed colours like I need for the Hyundai i20 WRC. Lastly, I'd like to try my hand at static models - I have a couple of 1/24 cars and I've just ordered the new 2019 release of the 1/12 Porsche 934 Jagermeister.
  13. I wouldn't say serious shortening, it was just removing the bumper. I believe the reason Tamiya state it won't fit the FF03 is due to the front body mount positions. The FF04 uses the standard TT-0x front position mounts like the XV01. The box for the 50809 Body Parts Set says it's compatible with FF01, FF02, TA02, TA03R and TL-01. An issue with fitting it to anything other than an FF02 (not sure about FF01) is that the rear mounts don't align with the drilled holes in the roof, so the manual advises making additional holes in the rear window. It says "Make holes (6mm) when attaching on 4WD chassis".
  14. The company I work for in my day job is flippin' awesome and gives every employee £300 every year to spend on "personal improvement", which doesn't need to be work related, so learning a new skill or improving health etc. People have bought Drones, flying lessons, musical instruments. This year I decided it was about time I got an airbrush so mine went towards this: Sparmax TC-620X compressor, with Iwata HP-CS with optional 0.5mm needle and nozzle parts. Awesome service from https://www.air-craft.net Also shown are Lacquer Retarder, Lacquer Thinner and XF-3 Flat Yellow that I needed. The whole lot was just over £400, so £100 odd of my own money too. I'm aware there's a learning curve with airbrushing but I have seven weeks holiday from said company this year, and four weeks still to take, which will help with that
  15. Next lot of masking - the vent trims. These were pretty tricky. I tried blu-tack, masking tape for curves but in the end just regular tape and machine cut circles and curves worked best: I didn't take a shot of how these looked before I started on masking the rear light trims the next day. This was the hardest part yet, the trims are recessed slightly and curved making it hard to stick the tape without it lifting: At the same time I masked the rest of the body to spray the backing silver and black inside. You can see there's an extra layer of cling film over the back lights and tape tabs that I'll remove after spraying the backing colours, leaving the rest of the body masked to do the light trims. This included slightly larger headlight masks so as to preserve the sharp edge of the white: I sprayed the inside PS silver then PS black for a totally opaque finish: Then I removed the film over the lights and sprayed the trims. This worked very well. Just needed a little clean up with a cocktail stick and some slight touch up with a brush. Suddenly the rough looking outside-the-lines lights are pretty smart: If they're anything like the 959 ones then they'll be entirely unresponsive to heat! I'll see how I go, but it was a bit annoying doing the 959 and getting the paint so right then the unavoidable sticker wrinkles It's a much less curvy body this one so hopefully will behave
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