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Truck Norris

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About Truck Norris

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    North Wales, UK

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  1. 2k give great results but a lot of it contains Isocyanates which is very nasty stuff and requires a serious set up to be safe (ABEK2 filtered or ideally air fed mask, paint suit, thick gloves, proper air extraction systems etc). Do a lot of independent research before considering it and beware of retailers underplaying the dangers. A lot of places sell it with warnings no more severe than regular lacquers.
  2. Assuming you're using TS paint there's nothing wrong with the products you're using. I and many others have used them without issues for many years. Using different paint probably won't solve your problem. Non of the following is necessary if the temperature is suitable (if it was, the instructions for the paint and body would state it. It may give you a better finish but it won't cause the paint to flake off) - Keying the surface - Warming the cans - Warming the body - Sanding the primer You don't really even need primer (again, Tamiya would say in the manual to use it if you did). I speak from experience because I've painted bodies in the most basic way possible and they've been fine. Your problem is either related to the temperature, your technique or how you've cleaned the body - maybe something in the soap you've used to wash it, or it wasn't cleaned well enough. Paint adhesion failure is usually down to a contaminated or unsuitable surface. The body is of course perfectly suitable so it must be something else. I'd run some tests on spare parts or bits of sprue - wash one bit and not the other, see what happens then. With two more bits paint one bit as you've done already, then paint the other bit by keeping the cans and the part inside where it's warm, stepping outside to spray, then bring them back inside again.
  3. Sounds like your LHS is getting confused between decals that you'd use on a static kit, and vinyl stickers like the Bruiser comes with. For decals you'd apply then clear coat over. This works as they are very thin. For stickers you apply them after the clear coat, just like you'd do on a real truck. The stickers are much thicker than decals and don't conform to the recesses and ridges in the body as well. Also, you only need gloss clear. anything that's semi-gloss is done with semi-gloss paints, like the bumper, window rubbers etc.
  4. Added my entry for the "Wrapping Paper" comp: https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=134572&id=43050 Usually I rely on Photoshop heavily, but I actually made and printed these.
  5. When I say "tread width" I'm referring to the distance between the mounting faces of the wheel hubs rather than the tyre width. Tamiya call it "tread" but it's more commonly known as "track". See page 4 here: https://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/rcmanual/tt02.pdf
  6. It's not. There's a difference between wide wheels and wide treads. The 911 RSR uses wide wheels, but tread width is standard. The extra width of the car comes from the wider wheels. You should have the C3 wheel axles not C6
  7. Yes, it's a character from a Japanese comic called "CoroCoro": https://www.crunchyroll.com/en-gb/anime-news/2017/04/16-1/manga-magazine-corocoro-comic-celebrates-40th-anniversary https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CoroCoro_Comic
  8. It doesn't need to be: I've used this method and it works perfectly.
  9. Tamiya recommend not using lacquer over acrylics, so it's a bit of a risk. See the paint combination table here: https://tamiyablog.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/Tamiya-color-lacquer-paint-compatibility-table-matching-list.jpg I would use LP with the 87194 Thinner with Retarder (slows the drying time for a smoother finish). Mix 3 parts thinner with 2 parts paint. The neatest way I've found to mix paints is to use these bottles https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223068844794 and disposable pipettes to transfer the paint and thinner https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181826567825 You can also decant and airbrush TS (add 10% lacquer thinner). The best way to do this is with a plastic straw and blu-tack to seal against the nozzle. Remember to leave the lid off what you're decanting into for 24hrs or so to allow the paint to de-gas.
  10. I think much like the 911 GT2 Street Version released a few years back, being a plain white both helps keep the cost down (not having to licence sponsors) and also avoids just a load more that look the same as the original. The white is ideal as a blank canvas, we've seen a lot of creativity with the GT2 which we probably wouldn't have if the Taisan stickers had come with it again. It also keeps the originals special for those that have them. I've got a chassis and few of the original body sets but I'll definitely pick up a few of these too
  11. When I got back into RC I was only interested in trucks, so a pun on Chuck Norris. "Kuhfarben" is from when I needed a German word for a Rauh Welt style 911 I built: As the car was black and white like a Friesian cow, I chose the German words for "cow colours" - kuh farben.
  12. The ones on the 934 are from the Alfa 155 (trimmed a little) which is centrally fitted so neither LHD or RHD orientated. The 911 GT2 one is from the Lancia 037 which is also not moulded to be specifically directional.
  13. By way of comparison, here's my Focus WRC 2004 that I completed the other week: Here's an example of the original box art shot with the same camera and background setup: (Incidentally, I bought this whole car just for the rear wing when I couldn't find one on its own anywhere. I've since located a couple)
  14. It is indeed a personal photo. Thank you! The camera bit is easy, just point it at the car. The tricky bit is the lighting - this is made up of 15 different exposures lit differently then blended together:
  15. I built the body then laid out all the parts for this shot: I then used the body and stickers for my 49400 chassis: The chassis was used for this:
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