GPZ1000RX

TO ALL INTERESTED PARTIES. I have found my mini mustang remains and box, still looking for the instructions tho, it could take a while so please bear with me.

23 = the number of turns of wire around each armature pole. more = more torque/less revs/less heat/more runtime less = more revs/less torque/more heat/less runtime X 3 = 3 strands of wire wound however many times round each armature pole. more = more revs etc as per above less = more torque etc so a 23X1 is much more torquey and less revvy than a 23X4 for example a 13X3 is very revvy indeed. for a light reardrive circuit racer 13X3 is ok ish for a heavy off roader 23X1 would be better.

Are you on a U.S. Airbase here in UK? There are three RC model bands in the UK, 27Meg which is for general use but clashes with illegal CB sets so the aircraft guys don't use it much. 40Meg which is for surface models only 35meg which is for aircraft models only You are probably ok using 75Meg on base as far as interference with other modellers is concerned, I don't know about any other users tho. And I don't know about the on base legal position regarding UK law. Please don't use your 35 set without at least finding out where and when your local RC flying clubs meet, there may even be one on base!

Every car/motor combination has a gearing sweet spot (ignoring battery run time). If you find it and get enough run time for your purpose stick to it. If you don't get the run time then you must compromise by lowering the gearing. (smaller pinion and/or larger spur) Slot racers don't have to worry about run time they just gear to suit the car to the driver and track. They also have a sweet spot, going too high just cooks motors and slows the lap times!

You could physically use it but it would be ILLEGAL in the UK, 35Meg is for aircraft use only here. If you shot down a flyers pride and joy and they found out it was you you would certainly be reported and fined/gear confiscated. Also aircraft can KILL (and have done) DON'T chance it, if you can't legally use it, move it on and use the proceeds to get something you can.

Can't really help with number of channels but it's been rebadged to Graupner. More important it's an aircraft set therefore 4+ channels but it's 35Meg and not legal in the UK for use in land or water models, it's aircraft only I'm afraid.

Aldershot club track is available for practise free to paid up members nearly every day from 09:00 till 20:00 or dusk if earlier. Check out amcc.org.uk Run what you have with minimum hop ups until you can regularly go race distance without crashing, then, and only then think about a big money change of car. If you are happy with what you have keep it and thrash it!

Tiger now working again. Found that both output stub axles from the gear boxes were not fastened correctly (presumably at the factory as the fitting of them isn't mentioned in the instructions). The left one was transmitting no drive at all,hence no steering, the right one had turned on the shaft,scored it and jammed on. I had quite a game getting it off. All sorted now, have already blitzed next doors cat. I love it again! Thanks for the advice guys.

Thanks for your help guys. I've just discovered that the left drive sprocket is just freewheeling on the gearbox output shaft. Pass the screwdriver nurse! I'm going to have to operate! Will let you know how I get on.

HELP!!!! I now have a problem. Ran my new pride and joy this evening for a few minutes very gently and then lost nearly all steering! Tried setting up the DMD controller to the radio again, still no go. DMD seems to be behaving normally according to the tri colour LEDs. I seem to be losing drive between the gearboxes and the tracks, is there some sort of slipper clutch in there that may have gone out of adjustment? or will retensioning the tracks do the trick? (friction drive?) Any ideas welcomed Thanks Paul.

I've got some F1s for sale F101/102/103 prices from £40 to £100+ cars only no electrics. Anything specific reqd?

Drive (or run off load)till the battery "dumps",the car will virtually stop at this point. If running nicad allow battery to recover as long as possible before recharging/reusing. Overnight is good. Store nicads flat. If Nimh half charge before storage, leave to cool completely before recharge/reuse. For multiple useage in the same day Nimh is better.

I've got a Tiger Tank! I've got a Tiger Tank! I've got a Tiger Tank! Just a few questions:-) Is there a group of owners that get together to have battles using the "Battle System"? Can anyone sell/trade me a Battle System and/or a suitable 4ch 40mHz radio set? (I'm currently using the previous owners set but he does want it back soonish) Are there any important hop ups, upgrades, modifications etc etc that I need to know about/fit before any problems occur? Just one more thing, I LOVE IT!!!!!! Thanks for making possible GSXR.

You can buy them from Maplin. But make SURE you get the polarity/signal coding right the first time, you won't get anothe go!

DON'T try to charge any of your batteries in only 15/20 mins. The max charge rate for nicads is 2.5X capacity, which equals about 30mins allowing for fast charge losses. The rate for NiMh is way below this. Exceed 2.5 only if you are prepared to risk your batteries!!!!

Almost certainly they are Sanyo

Try em with your existing charger, it will take a long time at 3amps. Stop charging when they get warm. Run the pack till completely discharged. If you are not running again HALF charge the pack before storage, unlike nicads NiMh don't like to be stored flat! NiMh prefer lower charge rates so try your charger out thoroughly before allowing anyone to talk you into a new one! Most guys would be amazed how simple a charger can be inside! Nothing fancy is needed for messing around.

Don't buy an ordinary car battery, get a "Leisure" one of about 60 amp/hrs. These are the batteries used in boats and caravans (trailers) for lighting, water pumps etc. They ARE designed for deep discharge and will perform better, for longer, for more charge cycles. They will pay you back the small extra cost many times over. When you've done using it recharge it as soon as poss, if you are not using it for a while a few hrs charge a week will keep it fighting fit!

It's also worth changing motor brush springs to the lightest pressure ones as by the time the armature is making enough torque to overcome the brush pressure caused by strong springs the torque tends to hit the drive wheels hard enough to unstick them. Try running the diff(s) as loose as possible (maybe even with some slip) Turn down the current limit or punch control on the ESC. Don't use the brakes. Set up the suspension high and soft. Treat the TX sticks like they are made from very thin glass!!!!!

Yes, but it will take about an hour from completly flat. Start off with the pack as close to 20 deg.as possible. (leave completly flat over night if you can). Charge until the pack becomes warm. (NOT hot) the pack is now ready to play!

I've got a lathe and would be happy to give your arm a skim. I'm in Bracknell Berkshire. Isn't there a local shop or club near you who could do the job without all the messing around with the postal service? Most would charge less than the postage! Have a look at the ads in Radio Race Car and Radio Control Racer mags.

Anyone living in the Guildford ish area that has an interest in the on road cars should have a look at the Aldershot Club. amcc.org.uk Gives you nearly 7days a week access to a superb tarmac track for nitro and electric cars. They run F1 races at their club meets every 2nd Sunday, most of the field is F201s. If enough people turn up with any particular type of car they will run heats for them or fit you into an existing class.

I offer £50 for the wreck.

Wet and Damp are two different things in RC tarmac racing. In the running puddly wet Tamiya wet tyre caps are brilliant, possibly more grip than in the dry! Don't know if you can still get them tho. TOTALLY useless in the damp or dry. In danp conditions the softest foams, which must NEVER have been allowed to even see additive are best but the whole thing will always be a matter of soft suspension and VERY gentle driving!

Till about 10yrs ago I had a collection of Scalextric slot cars, there was and is a book telling the facts about each car, it also graded them by the star system for rarity and demand. A 5star would be max valuable, while 0star would be £4 or £5 in good condition. (I sold a 5star for £400 10yrs ago!) A simple star system, as a guide only, would work well and be easy to change in the light of re releases or the secret Sand Scorcher mine being found!