GPZ1000RX

Clamp an extra length of silicon pipe onto the exhaust outlet from the pipe or silencer, it will be quieter but you will have to experiment with the length to get the best overall result.

I have the mortal remains of a Mini Mustang you can have for free, comes complete with box maybe even the instructions (if I can find them!) And absolutely no garantees at all:-) I'm in Berkshire England.

I'm with jester on this one. "Tamiya" connectors were OK ish 25yrs ago but now are way out classed by Deans and some others. An upgrade as important as ballraces! If Tamiya connectors melt and short out the battery (I've seen it happen!) some expensive damage WILL occur!

Tamiya are only good at one thing. That thing is producing the very best introduction to RC cars any one can have! The best marketing. The best instructions. The easiest build. The best looking finished car. If anyone asks me to recommend a first car for their children there is only one answer, TAMIYA!!!!!!!! It's been the same for well over 20 years now. There are negatives, why for instance, is it so difficult to get service and repair parts very soon after a model becomes obsolete? (F102 front wishbones anyone?) Off the race track, Tamiya is very much on the pace!

About 7 years ago I sold 2 good running condition Sand Scorchers complete with period Accoms radio gear for around £50 each. I feel pretty sick now but I got them complete with four other complete cars (which I still have) for £150! C'est la vie.

No more than it matters what size horse!!!!!! If drunk then actual power output is inversely proportional to that percieved by the drunken man.

Make absolutely sure the battery has cooled completely after it's last run, overnight if possible. Charge at about 3amps (for NiMH) until the pack starts to warm up, 15-20C above ambient is about right. Don't go and do something else meantime unless you KNOW you can trust your charger! keep on checking the temp, once it starts to rise it will overcharge quickly! The battery is now ready for fun. If you discharge it completely every time you will soon get a feel for how long it takes and how it feels. If it gets HOT at any time while charging you have a faulty cell or it's getting over charged. Stop charging, allow to cool for an hour then run it. Be more careful next time! For anything less than serious racing the above will be fine you don't need a £120 charger for goofing around. Cheers, Paul

Result! That's what you local shop is for tho. I've used loads of chargers and only one has ever given any trouble. It was a Schumaker CCD20 charger/discharger/cycler. The discharger capacity measuring bit stopped after a few weeks. Fixed f o c under warranty and still fine 8 years later, top piece of kit!

It could be my imagination, but I reckon the Johnson is the better of the two. I don't have any facts to back this up tho.

Boring factoid 337654.8896 1 man power = 1/3 horse power!!!!! When did I get so sad?

I'd love a Harley too but they are way out of my price bracket here in England (ask my wife!) A late model 1200 Sporty with a sprinkling of Screaming Eagle peformance goodies would be nice!!!!! I've got a few Tamiyas to trade, I'll pay the shipping LOL. Cheers Guys, Paul.

In all fairness I only used the 103 in this spec with sponge tyres + additive on warm sunny race days at Aldershots permanent tarmac race track complete with black rubbery racing line! In the wet or cold or both (this is England!) a near box stock 102 with a 27turn stock motor was VERY VERY challenging.

The usual reason for this is the 12volt source no longer giving the required performance. If you use a 1/1 car battery check it out, same if you use a 12v mains power supply. try using somebody elses "known good" 12v with your charger BEFORE you spend any money!

Tamiyaracer is THE DADDY! mere 50 year olds such as myself are prostrate before his great wisdom!!!!!! Tell me racer do you have IT skills probs like me? Cheers, Paul.

The Kyosho Nissan R89C Lemans Car came with a black MSC just like the pic, I've still got it!

It's easier to list whats left of the standard car! :- Bodyshell and wings (Sauber) Righthand servo mount plate Rear body posts Lower front wishbones (I think) Some of the bolts, screws and nuts (most are ally) Literally everthing else has been changed to Tamiya hop ups or a couple of items from else where. The carbon chassis plate was £65 UK when I bought it in '98 ish. The whole thing cost hundreds, in easy installments the Tamiya way! Cheers Paul.

I think all rc cars should have some sort of interior detail, they just don't look complete without. Serious slot car racing rules in this country insist on a min of drivers head, shoulders arms and steering wheel segment + no working parts visible through windows (which must be clear as per the real thing) and all this in 1/32 scale! I've never understood why the rc rules don't do the same?????

OK It's Mostly a bloke thing! I have a ladyfriend who has a motorcycle (Honda CB500) she doasn't really understand my need for speed! If it's got wheels or a water or air propeller(s), sails or runs on rails. Steam, petrol, glo, electric, wind, pedal or gravity I love it! And I also love it in working or static miniature. My wife tolerates my little foibles, but she is in the majority of "them" what does't REALLY understand. I don't understand her need to do gardening tho. Cheers, Paul.

One horse power is about 700 watts electrical. If you run your 3000mah battery flat in a 5 min race, the current consumption is an average of about 35Amps X 6volts average = 210watts = 1/4 hp It peaks MUCH higher than this!

The 201 has revived F1s at Aldershot, but it may be to do with them being new and based on more up to date real F1s. But I like a challenge, a full hopped up (1050grms) F103 with 13 Triple, Top spec ESC and batts is demonic! just like the real ones!!!!

If you have been flying, DON'T buy a steer wheel transmitter, you will probably not get on with it. Stay with a twin stick. I tried a wheel type after flying, expensive mistake!

Why do I bother with a motorbike that can get me busted for speeding on the motorway? In 2nd gear!!!!? Because I want it, I like it and I can afford it. Same with RC really. It's a bloke thing, "they" never understand!

It's almost certainly a Kyosho MSC.

Top idea guys! I need a complete idiots guide to:- PayPal, Ebay, subscriptions (that one gave me loads of trouble) digital pictures, digital movies and loads of other "IT" type stuff related to using the site. All the sorts of things which us over 50s struggle with! I can contribute general articles about electric motors and gearing. I started electric car racing at club level nearly 40 years ago and am an electrical engineer by trade so I may be able to help on these subjects. Cheers Paul.

The word from Aldershot club is that the F101/2/3 cars are MUCH faster in a straight line (25% lighter, more efficient transmission etc) F201s give far more traction in cold damp conditions (heavy, 4WD etc). So this early in the season the 201s have it. When the sun comes out the 10Xs will probably blitz the 4WDs. I might buy a 201 for wet / damp and use the fully hopped up 103 when the conditions are good for it. (sneaky me!) Interestingly the F1 BRCA regs do not allow rear indendent suspension or four wheel drive! I personally don't see the point of F1 rc cars being to all intent and purpose the same as all the touring cars. The 10Xs were cheap, simple, fast and fun. Cheers Paul.