GPZ1000RX
-
Posts
246 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by GPZ1000RX
-
-
Hi Racer,
As you seem badword bent on making an expensive mistake!
The answer to your question is that the standard gearing in a TA05 is very unlikely to be suitable for your 10X3, you will need very low gearing for this motor (larger spur and smaller pinion) if you try to run typical stock Tamiya gearing you will fry lots of stuff!
As I said before, if you have to ask these sorts of questions you are not ready for such hot motors but if you must, then gear it as low as you can.
Have fun but I think you will have more fun more cheaply with a much more modest motor.
-
Hi there Racer,
Haven't we been here before? :-)
-
It is mostly a Mardave, the diff is probably a Schumaker and the speeedo isn't standard but the rest of it is classic Mardave.
-
Here in the UK it's not just hobby shops and Saturday is the worst day!
Go into any sort of specialist shop and get "served" by the Saturday boy, if what you want is not part of their very limited experience the following usually occurs,
Their eyes glaze over with a "whats this cretin talking about" look,
and their jaw starts flapping in a breeze that sounds a bit like "we don't stock those", "they don't make them anymore" OR, even more annoying "we'll order one" but they don't or can't so you spend the next 3 weeks not trying elsewhere because you've ordered (and sometimes paid for!) one already.
I've had loads of "fun" courtesy of HiFi, bicycle, hobby, DIY, music, you name it, shops over the years.
As for sensible purchasing advice, don't bother, that's a sure way to even more bull.
Learn to build, use fix and maintain it yourself!
That said, if you find a GOOD retailer then support him, and let us know about it.
-
Club slot car racers started to encounter the torque reaction problem in the mid to late sixties as motor power started to get higher. It was solved by mounting the motor across the chassis, like a belt drive RC instead of inline like a TT. They also arranged the motor so that the torque reaction tries to hold the front of the car down on acceleration and the rear of the car down while braking.
Lap times tumbled!
-
Although 24degrees is the "mild" advance set up with a stock motor it's still a lot of advance!
10 to 12deg is about it for a modified motor.
This sort of advance (24) produces a lot of arcing and therefore the comm needs regular skimming to keep the performance up to scratch.
The problem is worsened by the many racers who insist on high gearing (larger pinion and/or smaller spur) when running on tight tracks, the overgearing stops the motor getting to the high revs needed to take advantage of the high advance, with the result that the car never gives of its best and the comm arcing becomes worse.
Modern stock motors are high performance specialist pieces of kit and need to be maintained accordingly, ie. about every 5 X 5min races.
For general horsing around a not too hot budget modified with the timing at 10ish deg would perform as well and need much less maintenance.
-
I second the Schumaker suggestion, strong, adjustable and fast "out of the box" also inexpensive to buy. Big bonus, Schumaker boast that they can supply spares for any car they ever made!!!
The only "must have" extra for me would be an alloy motor mount, helps keep motor temps down on those twisty indoor tracks.
-
Should you get some spare aerials in case a 5 year old breaks them?
YES! It's not a matter of if he breaks one, it's a case of when:-)
Very young kids find it utterly impossible to not point the antenna down, given that they are already close to the ground, breakage is almost certain.
See my post above about getting em cheap from Maplin.
-
In the UK Maplin stock a range of telescopic antennae, priced between £2.50 and £4 depending on size. You should be able to find their website easily enough.
-
Assuming you can't take it back and get the shop to sort it!
Take the brushes and springs off and then the endbell, use a square needle file to deburr the inside of the brush hoods/heat sinking etc, gently does it!
Deburr the brush edges too and check the springs arn't snagging in their slots.
You need to get the brushes sliding through the hoods with min resistance but also with min play, remember at all times that it is a great deal easier to file off a little more than to put it back if you over do it, so slow and steady is the way to go with the filing!!!
-
Condescending? Maybe, but it seems plain to me that anyone with the experience to cope with a very hot motor would not need to be posting such an open ended question on here.
There are a lot of questions posted that are in similar vein to Bisbaneracers, and they amount to "I want to start here", when "here" is patently not a suitable starting place!
Racer,
The other posters on this one have given you lots of specific advice on what would be a suitable chassis for your motor, and good advice too! Take note of it and price up what you need but my advice is use a lot less powerful motor than your 10X3. In comparison with what you could spend on the whole project the cost of a 19X2 or 24degree stock motor is almost irelevant, either would be a good starting point.
A 10X3 is a good finishing point (finishing the modified A final in first place that is :-) )
Go along to your local club and talk to the racers, find out what they are using and why (many clubs do not allow hot motors, including my own club!), it pays to use equipment and parts that you can buy locally, maybe even trackside and you will certainly find a lot of set up knowledge there. You will probably find secondhand cars, batteries, in fact most stuff for sale too, I have been racing for years on 2nd hand gear, most of it is far faster than I am!
Hope all the blurb helps Racer, have fun.
-
Unless you are going to do some serious racing AND have got a lot of experience of racing don't bother with the 10X3, such things need expensive batteries, speed controls and loads of maintenance etc.
The usual result of the inexperienced bolting a hot motor into their car and going racing is WORSE results due to more crashes, heavier crash damage etc. All this is assuming that the rest of the car is up to the power! (see first paragraph)
If all you are going to do is hoon around in the street then a 19X2 would be more than fast enough and much easier on the batts, speedo etc. Save the hot motor for the track, and only then when you have got some experience!
-
The 101/2/3 series cars were designed to run foam tyres, when the tyres wear down the front starts to drag, also the kit front springs go saggy after a while, you used to be able to get hop up spring sets which gave you 3 different rates to choose from and were higher quality.
Larger tyres/new springs are the answer.
-
If my memory serves me, it's a 27turn 24degree old fashioned, non rebuildable "stock" motor.
It has to be 10 years old, but they were pretty good in their day, if it's never been used it will go very well compared to a kit motor. If it's worn out I hope you paid very little for it!
-
It probably not possible without fitting F201 wheels as well, which may may not fit!
However later F103 derivatives came with slick rubber (as opposed to sponge) tyres and suitable wheels. These will definately fit your F102, unfortunately I can't tell you the Tamiya part numbers, but almost certainly someone on here can help you with the numbers.
-
You may not be able to do it unless you can use a very expensive wheatstone bridge resistance meter.
Probably far cheaper just to buy an unlimited ESC and a selection of small pinions/large spur gears!
ALWAYS gear very low until you have experimented and know what you are dealing with. Don't be drawn into silly conversations regarding how hot your motor is, anything very hot is wasted unless you are seriously racing AND know what you are doing.
-
Because too many crashers tend to reverse out of the barriers straight into other cars.
Most clubs I know don't ban reverse tho!
-
With a 20T pinion you will get better acceleration at the expense of some top speed, you will also get better run time from a charge. To expand a little on my other post you may not get a higher top speed if, for example, you went to a 30T as the existing motor may not be able to "pull" the raised gearing. Also on a tight indoor race track a high top speed would be of little use!
If you are a beginner gear as low as you can, you'll enjoy the longer run time, learn how to drive and have less costly accidents (due to the lower speeds). Another bonus is you don't need anything other than a smaller pinion to gear down, if you gear up chances are you will have to spend money upgrading things to cope!
I have done a lot of club racing along with both of my sons, and as soon as I thought they could handle more speed I provided it, the results for both of them first time I tried were SLOWER lap times! they couldn't handle the higher pace and crashed much more. Crashes were also harder and did more damage due to the greater speed. There is a saying " To finish first, first you must finish" very true with RC cars.
Slow and steady often does win the begginers class!
-
How many teeth are on the standard pinion?
-
PS. The above refers to electric motors, I can't speak for glow engines!
-
The above advice is true, except for the bit about the overheating!
You WILL NOT overheat your motor by fitting a SMALLER pinion. The reverse is the case, a LARGER pinion may make your motor overheat.
Electric motors want to rev, let them do so. If you fit too small a pinion all you will lose is a little speed, if you fit too large a pinion there is a good chance that the motor might overheat, your runtime will go down, battery may overheat and so could the speed control.
Overgearing (too large pinion and/or too small spur) is the enemy of your car, unless you are doing some serious racing and are prepared to pay the price DON'T do it.
-
Anyone heard a very hot slot car motor running off load? The fastest of them were turning at 50,000rpm in the early 70s, at a guess I'd say they are 3 times that fast now!
-
They are very much a rarity over here in Blighty, I'm pretty certain I've never seen one before (and I've been around some time), hence my post! Customized Beetles used to be popular in the '70s but usually went along the opposite route to the "Baja Bug" I saw on Thursday, they went lower/wider/metalflake etc.
This one looked like it meant business off road, it was also getting a lot of attention with its very loud exhaust and high up dramatic style!
-
Beware of the lenght of a 550 motor, they are a fair bit longer than a 540 so it may not physically fit.
On the same tack, Tamiya "can" type kit motors will not fit in quite a few other cars because they have been designed for an "endbell" type motor.
TA05 Stock Gears and 10x3?
in RC Racing Talk
Posted
Hi Racer,
As you are not actually participating in properly organized racing then get the smallest pinion on the list, that way you can't go wrong, specially for general hooning around. You are asking the question in the "Racing" part of the forum and to anyone who actually does race your question is very much "how long is a piece of string" and the answer is "that depends"!
It depends on the race track, the conditions, the driver, the batteries and many other things too.
There are so many variables that serious racers carry a selection of pinions and spurs so that they can adjust gearing along with everything else. This is one of the many expenses of running a very hot motor that we have discussed at length before, the hotter the motor the more critical low gearing is, if you gear too high you WILL cook things, if you gear too low all you lose is a little speed, for your projected use you don't need anything like the speed of a 10X3 (if you can afford it!) so gear it as low as possible.
As I said before, you could get a much more suitable motor for less than the price of a selection of pinions and spurs AND give the rest of the power train an easier time too.