GPZ1000RX
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Posts posted by GPZ1000RX
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Sigh!!! it's a tough gig, but send your unwanted full size 308s to me, I promise to do my very best to take care of them :-)
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Back when the 103 chassis was still in production Aldershot Club used to race them allowing modified motors, most of the experienced guys used 13 or 14 turn motors. My own choice was a 13 triple wind geared right down (small pinion/big spur) and ESC current limiter at 75amps.
They used to fly round, beaten only by pro10 cars!
The conditions had to be good tho, warm, dry, tyre additive, black racing line etc.
If it was wet and slippy it was back to the kit motor or it became impossible to do a lap without spinning off.
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Ridgeback,
The reason your Carson corner markers make your car roll over when you clip them is that they are designed to do that:-)
It all started many years ago in 12th scale carpet racing, it was all getting a bit too rough and tumble with people squeezing into nonexistant gaps at corner apexes bouncing off the barriers and taking out the innocent driver being overtaken.
The corner markers you have stopped all that and made the racing a lot cleaner and "non contact"
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DJ,
I've just looked in the RS catalogue, and sure enough, there are the words "NOTE: Do not connect batteries in parallel" with reference to nicads.
It's to do with the very low internal resistance of the cells, this results in a total inability of nicads/Nimhs to regulate their own charging in the way that lead acid batteries do.
If you connect them in parallel there is nearly nothing to restrict current flow in or out of one pack to another these can result in even quite small voltage differences between packs producing a large current flow from pack to pack. This flow can easily be high enough to cause damage to connections and/or the packs themselves!
I can't say I've ever tried to achieve this or seen anyone else try it but I have seen an ESC shorted out by rain water glow red hot as it was destroyed by the attached racing packs ability to deliver huge current into a totally unprotected load.
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Stock motors, as opposed to kit motors, have loads of advance, 24deg or 36deg, they also have short stack armatures.
All of which tends to produce revs, heat and high current consumption.
If your use needs torque then it may not be the upgrade for you, especially if you can't lower your gearing to suit
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Too hot to handle is 70deg +, your battery probably didn't get that hot. I've just looked at some battery spec sheets and many can take 60deg and some 70!
You may be lucky, be gentle with it for a few cycles.
Get a good reliable charger.
Don't do it again!!!!!!!!!
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Keyboard Ken,
It's very risky to connect Nicads or Nimhs in parallel please tell me you've HAVEN'T had an accident with them yet!
They can "cross charge" each other at unlimited current and blow up!
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Motile Model Developements here in England will (would?) cut you some new sponge tyres to your size/specification. Cheap too!
I only know their phone number tho, 012 8269 1665
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For general fun use no, but for racing at a fairly serious club level, yes, because the transmitters allow all sorts of set up adjustments and multi model memory also good servos are much stronger and faster than budget ones.
There is NO substitute for setting up the car itself tho!
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I use a GPS based speed camera locator and as I understand it the position updates itself every 15 metres and my locator uses an average of X readings to keep track of your speed. I'd say there is a definate question as to whether an RC car goes fast enough for long enough to allow a reliable or even any reading of speed to be taken.
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I know its too late for these particular grubscrews, but what you need is the correct size precision ground high speed steel bit allen drivers.
I use the Associated ones but many others are available.
Using these stops the cycle of rounded key = rounded socket = rounded key etc etc, because they are the CORRECT size and double hard!
Be careful with sizes tho, for example 2.5mm is only 0.005" larger than 3/32in and the difference DOES matter.
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With my Tiger 1 I usually run out of time for playing before the battery(s) go flat, and thats using some old 1400 SCRs.
I wouldn't mess about trying to parallel wire the packs coz, 1 it's not good practise with Nicads/Nimhd cells, 2 Theres some expensive electronics in the tank and 3, I reckon it will run for ages on a pair of 3300 packs making this the safest and easiest option!
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Big nightmare mate.
Best thing to do is get together with the others who are now barred from your old club and start your own new club, don't forget to bar the two nutters who gave you all the grief tho!
Good luck, keep us up to date with things.
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I absolutely agree with Jimmy about this, try not to do it, it can and will break things.
If the tyres won't slip and the motor has enough grunt then something(s) else has to give, I think that you've just found out what that something is!
Thats not to mention the extra electrical load on motor, speed control and battery.
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A 27T 24Degree stock is what you need, try the Trinity P2K (about £27 UK)
It will go straight in on standard gearing and should give your nice new ESC no trouble at all.
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A 20A discharge will get batteries hot and the older the batts the hotter they tend to get.
If they are getting much hotter than when you are racing use a more gentle discharge rate (as you suggest!)
Might it be time to pension off your 2000s anyway? You can always use them for practise and general mucking about.
I've always found that "budget" matched packs are good value, the matching seems to improve performance and battery life quite a lot.
I once had 6 budget 1700SCRC stick packs, all used for a season, I took them all apart and got my local friendly battery man to run them once through his turbo matchers and label them up.
Got them home and matched them up as best I could and reasembled them into "race" packs.
The results were impressive, the worst "new" pack was as good as the "old" worst pack, all the others were improved by about 10%+
I've always bought matched packs since, they are well worth the extra cash.
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Try again,
3 electric classes, 27T stock touring, 19T stock touring and 27T stock F1
2 IC classes, rubber tyre touring and foam tyre touring.
Hope this attempt doesn't end up scrambled!!!!
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Seems that the message board has scrambled out the spaces between all my ditto marks, hope it still makes sense.
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Aldershot run the following classes,
Electric Touring cars 27T stock
" " " 19T "
" F1 27T "
IC Touring cars, rubber tyres
" " " foam "
The electric motor restrictions are very popular as it enables people like me to get beaten by the fast men more cheaply :-)
LRRC probably run similar classes, maybe without the electric motor restrictions, I don't know for sure tho.
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In the UK you can easily end up paying more in UK Pounds than in the USA in Dollars! and the difference IS NOT accounted for by higher taxation.
eg. an item that costs $85 in America may well be offered to the UK at £100!!!
It's not just the RC hobby that's affected, it's loads of things, from automobiles to yacht chandelry.
If anything, mainland Europe suffers from even higher "hobby stuff" pricing than the UK!
Nobody, except "the trade" seems to know why this is but "the trade" is saying nothing.
Somebody is being ripped off and I reckon it's me.
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I've never been there but I do know that the club is run by some very experienced guys, who have, in effect, formed an indoor offshoot of the Aldershot club (not meant as a critisism!).
You can be sure that they know how to run things properly and you will get some good racing there.
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I'm with you on the subject of the F101/2/3 F1 cars Feanor, they were brilliant, simple, light, cheap and fast.
I really don't see the point of the F201, it's to all intents and purposes a touring car all dragged up as a Grand Prix car!, same weight, same drive config., same complexity, same handling and the same (high) price.
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Sorry, I see you already have a motor, the paradox will be fine!
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It might strip the gears, as I understand it the Blackfoot can be prone to this. I have an original Blackfoot and it came to me with teeth missing in the gearing and that only had a kit motor.
If you are concerned then it's best left alone.
The likely cause of such damage is the practise of slamming the car straight from forward to reverse or visa versa, spectacular but punishing all round!
If you do get a stock, then get a 24degree one NOT a 36deg one, the latter get very hot and wear out fast.
When you get an ESC find one with "punch control" and "reverse delay" if you can, well worth the extra cos it's much easier on those "vintage" gears.
Sand Scorcher
in Vintage Tamiya Discussion
Posted
Just a quick word to say that there is a real live, full size Sand Scorcher lurking in the Camberley, Surrey area!!! Heard it long before I saw it on Camberley High St on Thursday afternoon, unfortunatly I didn't get a close look but it's finished in red and is VERY loud.