GPZ1000RX
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Posts posted by GPZ1000RX
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For $99 I'd go for that, it is designed for the task. You would probably find that getting the necessary gentle response from car ESCs, specially in reverse, will be a problem.
The reverse on my Tiger, even with the DMD, is a bit fierce!
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I spoke to Hobby Co's "tank demo" man a couple of months ago, he reckons that if a major electronic unit fails in a tank you are probably best to buy a complete new tank, as it will be little dearer and much easier to find!
Can't remember which is which, but on my Tiger, one unit is a combined two motor ESC/mixer unit for drive and steering, the other does the sound FX and turret/main gun movement. Two batteries, one for each "set" of functions, are used.
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I didn't know that Speed Tuned gears only gave you the necessary to raise the gearing (larger pinion/smaller spur). If so then they are a double waste of time unless you are going serious racing.
Thought I'd covered the low for revvy motors/ high for torquey motors bit tho:-)
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I think I may not have made myself all that clear in my last post.
I was refering to "budget" cars, not Tamiyas in general.
A TB02 should be fine with a hot motor in it, because it is NOT built to a low price, a TL01 or TT011 will not be because they ARE built down to a price!
I strongly suspect that Jimbob wants to put a 10T in a BYMCO car, and they are VERY built down to a price!!!!
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If you are thinking about putting a 10T motor in your BYMCO or similar, you need to be aware that it will almost certainly destroy something(s) in the transmission. IF it doesn't wreck the speed control or itself (due to overgearing) first!
Budget cars, including Tamiyas, are not designed for such hot motors.
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The easiest way to make a discharger is to get a (non quartz halogen) car headlight bulb, wire a suitable connector to it, link the two bulb filaments so that they are in parallel.
Plug bulb and battery together and, voila, your fully charged pack is now discharging at about 6amps.
You can wire up as many bulbs as you like in parallel, but be careful, the bulbs get hot enough to burn skin and melt carpet, and Tamiya connectors don't like constant high current, the WILL melt if you over do it!
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I could be wrong but, as I understand it, Speed Tuned gears are intended to provide a means of changing ratios so that cars with fixed gearing can be altered to suit different motors/tracks.
ie. lower (smaller pinion/larger spur) for twisty tracks/revvier motors. Higher (larger pinion/smaller spur) for flowing fast tracks/torquier motors.
they won't give you more performance on their own and probably arn't worth bothering with unless you are going "proper" racing or fitting a hot motor.
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Tamiya bridges that huge gap between ready to run RC toys like Tomy etc and serious kit like Schumaker/Associated/Yokomo.
Most Tamiyas are relatively cheap, easy to build and can easily be made to look fantastic. For most buyers this is enough, they are never going to go near a race track with serious intent!
The down side, of course, is that these same cars would be totally outclassed at the track without considerable outlay of time and money on Hop ups, many would still be marginal no matter what you did!
In conclusion they are not just toys or serious kit but in between, a role they play very, very well!
Of course they can cut it at the top, and do, but it isn't where their heart is.
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The closest thing I remember from the days of yore is the resistor type of MSC, this was an adaptation of the vital parts of a Parma slot car hand controller.
These were the resistor and wiper suitably wired up and combined with a servo, this would give you the desired "vintage feel" to your car.
BUT all the waste heat is dissipated by the resistor, which of course, is now locked up in the electrics case! and cannot be cooled properly.
You stand a good chance of melting things, but if you must you can still get all the bits from Parma.
I can't remember what value resistor is needed tho, and they do everything from 0.25 to 60ohms.
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I'm a great England footie fan, whenever they are playing I get all dressed up and go out and give the RX a thrashing on nearly empty roads just like the Saab ad on the telly!!!!
The longer England stay in the tournament the quieter the roads get and us bikers enjoy it more and more!!!!
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What are you guys talking about?
I was out on the RX getting serious with some very empty roads :-)
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This is not a word I use loosely,
AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!!
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One from +pos to -neg.
One from +pos to motor case.
One from -neg to motor case.
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Exposed belts and gravel, stones, glass and every other bit of car park detritus you can think of don't mix!
Therefore the shaft drive car is the one for you.
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A great pity, it looks like any other polycarb "blob" to be found at any on road race meet the world over!
I'd like another "my mums" non turbo Legacy, they're plenty fast for a car!
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Me too but then reality in the shape of the insurance premium kicks in, the 2.2 GX (non turbo, let alone 2 of them!) cost a lot to insure!
My wife has strange ideas about living in a house and feeding our children:-)
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Best car I ever owned was a 91' Legacy 2.2 GX, a bit battered, no history, 110,000miles+ but it went like snot off a shovel, never let us down, and took my family and I to the South of France and back with no stop overs, at 95 to 100mph a few summers ago, all it consumed was LOTS of unleaded.
RIP H344 SJB
Thanks for nothing myopic Volvo man.
I,d love an RC one!
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A bell end is the part of the tent you keep your rucksac in overhight :-)
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And the hotter the motor the more likely it will be to generate radio interference!
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If your aircraft radio gear is 35Mhz (it probably is) then it's not legal to use it in a car in the UK.
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Yep Nick (Mr Demon) is mainly a motor and battery man, his gear is the equal of anything you'll get anywhere if you're not a "works" driver and usually cheaper! He will custom make packs and motors for you too.
If you know what you want, give him a ring on 01252 343132
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If your motor has done that amount of running then it's certainly long over due a complete rebuild! Racing guys do a rebuild every meeting (about 30mins runtime)
Fail to do this for a few meetings and performance rapidly falls off and wear, current draw and interference multiply dramatically.
You also need to gear your car MUCH lower for this motor (smaller pinion and/or larger spur)
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PS!
Have a look at "Help needed battery connectors" 2/6/04 12.44
and "Oh no not again" 3/6/04 09.40
Both on General discussions.
You should find a few tips there!
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If you need new brushes then you need a comm skim as well. A 14X3 pulls a lot of current, so if things are not A1 then big sparks/ big interference is going to occur. Hot motors need frequent maintenance.
Hows the suppresion on the motor? The required 3 caps?
Looking at your pics, you've got a lot of power wiring flapping around there! and do I see a Tamiya connector there too? They certainly can't take the motor, that could be arcing!
fast motor question
in General discussions
Posted
Are you building your car in installments, via a regular magazine/instruction pack, every couple of weeks?
If so, then the bad news is that you are in the process of paying a lot of money for a not very good car, probably not as good as a TT01 or TL01 I'm afraid!
Don't worry, I've done the same sort of thing myself in the recent past and I am more than old enough to know better!!!
Finish building it up and have fun learning how to build a car,drive it, maintain it and repair it. But DON'T try to tune it up power wise, even a 27T stock is pushing it mechanically! Spend NOTHING thats not necessary to keep it going, you will be wasting your cash on that car.
Chalk it up to experience and save up your money for your next car and apply all your hard won experience to a TT01 or similar.
Forget about 10T motors it WILL destroy you transmission and your MSC.
It's a hard lesson I know, but even us oldies get sucked in by the glossy adverts some times.