Silver-Can

I'd be surprised if it were that tbh. I've used the diff putty in a number of different diffs (bearhawk, dt01, tl01b, df01 etc) without issue - although they are 'closed' as opposed to open so who knows; it could have got somewhere it shouldn't 🤷‍♂️. I guess the only other option is swap all your electronics from your blitzer with your HS and see if that makes any difference. Bit of a faff, but if it does the job...Good luck 👍 Edit - I meant to say swap your esc, not all the electronics 😁😳🤞

Yeah sorry mate - after re reading all of your OP I realised you had at least 1 other car so figured you would have sussed that. Does it sound 'rough' eg noticeably louder/crunchier/whiner etc when you drive it, compared to your blitzer?

Daft question, but I note from your OP that it is a steel aftermarket pinion - are sure it's the correct pitch? My HS was my first car when I got back into the hobby about 10 years ago. I ordered a number of alternative pinions only to discover they were the wrong pitch. They were 48dp instead of the 0.8mod or 32dp required. Just a thought.

If it's a heat problem, as opposed to a current supply problem (and assuming the esc isn't faulty), then you'd either need a slower motor so that the esc doesn't have to work as hard, a different esc (preferably with a fan), try adding a fan to your existing esc (do you have any spare channels or other powered outputs on your reciever?) or making some holes in the chassis and/or little metal access plate/hatch to allow for air flow. I have a hotshot and have a 160amp esc with fan inside the chassis. Although I run brushless, I have the throttle endpoint set to about 50% so that it is lively without being bonkers. I still had to drill little holes in the metal cover and a couple in the side of the chassis just in front of, and above the fan to allow for air flow. I also used to run a TZ super stock on an etronics (I think) esc without issue - it was the motor that gave up the ghost, getting too hot. Edit: all that said, I believe the 1060 is rated down to 12 turns. I know that not all motors are created equal, but I wouldn't have thought a 23 turn motor would tax it to the extent that it would cause it to thermal, even inside the enclosed HS chassis tub.

As yonzariq says, more info please. It could be your servo needs more juice than the esc can provide. It could be a binding issue. It could be a set-up issue...

Daft question but you have changed to 3S charge mode, rather than the usual 2 for car lipos - and connected the balance lead into the correct input on the charger? I sometimes get this when charging my 2S batts - even though everything is connected correctly. I usually just disconnect everything, reconnect and it sorts itself. 🤷‍♂️ As an aside, I've left my plane lipos at 'storage voltage' for months and months and months and they lose very little (maybe 0.01v per cell over many months). I do check on them periodically though just to make sure they're still OK.

If you don't want to swap the wires at the connection between esc and motor you could always just de-solder the wires from the motor and solder them back on the other way round...easier to just swap the connections though.

From what I can gather, the motor is sensorless and the ESC is for sensored only. I'm guessing that won't help. I don't have that particular ESC so can't confirm but that would be something to explore. Aside from that, without more info, it could be any number of things going on I'm afraid.

And just to add; always, always balance charge your lipos 👍.

Thanks. Dumb question incoming but are they compatible with tamiya axles etc or do you need mods to make the wheels fit correctly?

Also if lexan body hot glue might melt it or deform it. Not that I've ever done that. Ever. No.

Really digging the 46! Are the tyres/wheels kyosho?

These should do the trick. DF 01 parts are the same too 👍

You're welcome. Your obvious enthusiasm and interest is to your credit and the end result looks ace 👏. I think it's fair to say most of us are still learning new tips and tricks along the way (I'd never thought of using the rubber o rings on the shock mounts before). I notice on the main forum page you've asked about custom decals for someone's purple madbull. They're from MCIracing who are based in Canada. They do great decals and variants - I recently got a set for my madcap and, although the red was a little more orange than the original tamiya set, the actual print and sticker quality were great 👍. Hope you have fun with your bull and mx5 and be sure to let us know how you get on with both.

Indeed. A couple of weeks ago my 4 Yr old and I went to our local park with our 2 lipo powered madbulls. It had been raining for days on end and I knew it would a) be very wet/muddy and b) being 4 yrs old, my son's car would be magnetically attracted to anything resembling a puddle. And so it was. One particular puddle he found was so deep at one point, the wheels of the bull were actually off the ground and the car more akin to a paddle steamer than car, until it came out the other side! The batteries survived without issue. Hardcase 4000mah lipos. I took the precaution of applying vaseline around where the wires enter the hardcase, but other than that, just used as normal. Obviously removed and clean/dried immediately once home but we've used them a couple of times since without issue...🤷‍♂️