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Silver-Can

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About Silver-Can

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  1. Just to echo Wooders above, you can't really go wrong with schumacher shocks (indeed any 'race' spec shock). More expensive than CVA's but cheaper than TRF and the quality is first rate.
  2. ⬆️⬆️ aye that's the one 👍👍. Couldn't remember exactly what it was called and couldn't find it on the search...🙂
  3. There is an 'official' tamiyaclub speed run thread in the main section on the site. Don't know whether you've seen it - not sure whether it's been updated for a little while. Dig it out and submit it! 😁
  4. I have a tl01b (baja king/baja champ) and used to run a super stock bz in it - which is very similar to the rz. The motor used to run really hot, to the point it melted the solder on the motor connecting wire one time. That said, I never got magic smoke or battery connectors melting. What ESC are you using? What battery (lipo/nimh)? What sort of connector are you using to connect your battery to your ESC? Are you using stock(ish) wheels/tyres ie not monster truck wheels and tyres? At a guess I would say your battery/esc connectors are not up to the job. It also sounds like your ESC is going into thermal protection mode and cutting power to prevent internal damage to your ESC. You could try the smallest pinion (19t I think?) And also cut a bit out of your shell to promote airflow/cooling over the ESC like I've done here.. I cut out the the rectangular section underneath the topcad sticker and glued a very thin piece of foam there, the idea being air goes in when moving but dust/crud stays out. Seems to be working so far. I would also solder different connectors. I've used Dean's connectors for years without issue, but other suitable alternatives are available. Most of this is guess work though without know what electronics you've actually go installed. 🙂
  5. That is exactly what happened to my re re hotshot. My first car getting back into the hobby 8 odd years ago. Installed and ran the kit standard tamiya pinion (.8 mod) from the get-go. After around 6 months I got horrid noises coming from gearbox and, on opening it up noticed the pinion had really sharp edges and the spur teeth were also deformed. Installed new spur and 32dp steel pinion and 7+ years later still have that same pinion and gear set. No clicking, grinding or other extraneous noises. As others have said, the difference in profile is so small between .8 mod and 32dp that once any backlash is accounted for it makes no practical difference (IMHO). Of course, these are the only pinions I would use interchangeably. I also have 48dp and .6 mod gears/pinions. Never the twain shall meet!
  6. Welcome back. Your story is similar to many on here (myself included). I used to 'race' my grasshopper back in the day when I was about 11 but then my interests went elsewhere until about 8 years ago. Sitting at work in a quiet moment and mused over whatever happened to tamiya, so a quick google later and saw the re re hotshot (the most coveted car from my grasshopper days) and bought one the next day. Now have around 13 cars - 'tis a slippery slope. Quite astounded by the technological changes in the intervening 35 odd years and took a while to get my head around lipo, brushless and 2.4ghz and all this new fangled stuff. I also quickly found this site and received loads of helpfully advice and guidance - which I'm sure you will too. Yes, the hobbywing 1060 is a great little esc and provides for lots of scope for upgrading your motors. I have a couple of them and have never missed a beat. I can't comment on lipo battery compatibility for the MB as I don't own one, but I'm sure you'll get plenty of advice around this. The only other thing to add is the battery charger. I would advise to to get something like this IMAX b6 charger that can balance charge lipo batteries (very important) and charge nimh too (as well as doing lots of other stuff). Just be wary that there are cheap clones of these that may be of inferior quality). Good look and ask away. People here are incredibly helpful and supportive.
  7. Good shout with the super stock too. I had the BZ in my re re hotshot and that thing shifted. Plus it looked really nice - something that I miss with brushless. In comparison, they look a bit...bland compared to their brushed brethren imho.
  8. Ouch. That would make me seriously mad. As others have said, you paid good money not only for the models but also the people you entrusted with their care. As suggested I would keep hassling them and getting them to check storage facilities, other wagons etc. Really sorry for your loss mate, especially of the sentimental stuff but hope it comes good in the end. Good luck.
  9. No worries mate - just double check it is the correct spline tooth count for your servo as some are different to others 👍
  10. @Quinster this is the sort of thing you're looking for Kimbrough servo saver As an aside, I agree with the argument that servo savers are as much to save chassis/servo mounts and other parts of the car as the actual servo however, also bear in mind how much faster cars are today, with their lipo and brushless setups compared to back in the 80s and 90s. I think they still have a role to play in protecting the servo, just not as prominently as years gone by. I also agree that as a consequence, servos need to have properly adjusted throw to prevent them twisting, stretching or otherwise breaking stuff. I've just finished a schumacher cougar 2000 refurb and installed a new 25kg servo with .07 speed. It can also travel through around 180° (but is set to 60 by default). Without setting the steering endpoints it was causing so much flexing and warping of the front end assembly that I thought was going to snap something. On the 0 - 120 points of adjustment on my tx (with 120 being max throw), I have it set to 70 and the steering assembly just touches the maximum limit of its throw. /derail. 😁
  11. What motor to get will depend on what ESC you get and how confident a driver you are! Personally, I would go with a tamiya sport tuned and a hobbywing 1060 esc. The sport tuned is a relatively mild tuned brush motor, just to ease yourself into the swing of things. That esc would be capable of handling motors down to 12 turns (lower turn = faster motor). Sport tuned are around 23 turns (although there is debate about this), so the 1060 would leave plenty of headroom to upgrade later. That esc is around 20 quid and the motor around 30.
  12. I hope you got the BH body set when they were relatively cheap 18 odd months ago (I recall them being about 40 quid from South Korea I think) as people are asking well in excess of 100 quid now!! I umm-ed and ahhh-ed about getting one back then but my BH shell was/is in good nick so couldn't really justify it. Certainly can't now! Even if I did, I wouldn't dare do anything with it except keep it in the box in a safe, dark place. Which for me, kinda defeats the point. I am kicking myself though for missing out when I did. Maybe you could pick up a relatively decent used BH shell off ebay for a conversion?
  13. All installed and tested. Must say first impressions are very favourable. Build quality seems good and it can actually rotate through roughly 180° (although by default it is the usual 60 or so degrees you normally get). I was a bit sceptical of the stats (0.07s on 6v and boat loads of torque) but I must say it is fast, maybe not quite as fast as stated, but certainly up there with my savox 1258s, but at half the price. It doesn't feel quite as buttery smooth as the savox when rotating by hand, but in operation it is very quick, very responsive and very precise. Will definitely be getting more of these. Just hope they are durable too. Oh and they're waterproof. 👍
  14. +1 for kimbrough servo saver too. My usual go to when needed.
  15. That is awesome! Very impressed with you spacial awareness/depth perception etc to negotiate the obstacles and the tunnels and stuff. I would either crash or throw up after the first 10 seconds. Or quite possibly both 😁 Great stuff 👍👍
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