steelo

Where's my 'Mr. Fusion'?

Remember to wear your life preservers!

I had an issue with my Sand Scorchers front upright axles coming loose and falling off...2 part epoxy has worked wonders for over a year now...

I'm impressed with the Neewer brand motors, I think they are a knockoff of castle or one of the more 'popular' brands, but really cheap. I'm using a 13.5T 3050kv brushless and my M-05 flies...so far no problems after over a year!

Okay, I was just curious... I usually blow all of the dirt/rocks off with an air compressor after each run but you won't find me scrubbing the entire car with a toothbrush (unless it's caked in mud). Unless something breaks, I have yet to tear a model apart just to clean it. I have a buddy who runs his cars maybe once a month and tears them apart after each run to make them look new again...that's a little OCD I think!

Hey everyone, Just curious, how often do guys completely tear apart a model to thoroughly clean and re lube everything?

Awesome, thanks!

Hi everyone, I believe that I am getting a Lipo charger/battery for my birthday. My question is what battery would be appropriate for the models I have. I don't quite understand the continuous discharge rating or how to convert, say 20C to amps. Right now, I have a Neo Scorcher running a Tamiya superstock bz motor and an Arrma ESC rated up to 40A, a Sand Scorcher with a Dirt Tuned motor and a teu-BK-101 ESC and finally a M-05 with a brushless 13.5T motor using a TBLE-02s ESC. I know at least with the TBLE-02 and the 101 ESC's I would need a low voltage alarm. Towerhobbies has some duratrax 2s' rated at 20C...my question is, would these set ups draw too much current for this battery to handle? *edit: I did a little research and it looks like the draw is the capacity in amps x the 'C' rating. That means the 2000mah Duratrax 2s should have a safe continuous draw rating of 40A...does that provide enough of a 'safety' buffer? I'm sure the dirt tuned motor is fine, but I can't seem to find the max draw rating on any the others.

Unfortunately, I cannot credit Tamiya as the first car I saw run...Back when I was about 5-6 years old in the mid eighties, my father purchased a Kyosho Optima. I thought it was the most amazing (coolest) car I've ever seen....super fast and just beautiful. I knew he loved it too as he spent months meticulously building and painting it. I think he also hopped up the motor with a Lemans 360 Gold....man that was a fast motor at the time. He wouldn't let me run it until I got older, but I recall the pure excitement of watching it whizzing by. A few months later, I got a Marui Big Bear for Christmas....being quite young at the time, it was the perfect first R/C. It was heavy, slow and handled like a garbage truck, but it was also virtually unbreakable...I remember the ancient MSC he put in it that worked about 50% of the time and the huge resistors mounted on the rear tray. I beat the snot out of that truck but had a grin on my face the entire time! As I grew older, I had several Tyco 'Turbo Hoppers' and a few Lobo 2's, but they don't really spark my memory like those 2 cars....If Kyosho ever re-releases the Optima, I'll definitely be all over it!

That should do it! =)

I don't think that's an option with the TBLE-02 ESC with a brushed motor, unfortunately...its a 'safety' option I believe Tamiya built into that ESC to prevent stripped gears.

If you are using the TBLE-02s ESC, I think 10.5 is the limit for ONROAD /13.5T for OFFROAD.... Limiting the ESC to 50% should be fine and MIGHT prevent the thermal shutdowns despite the motor being too 'hot' for that ESC...rather than using the end point adjustment on the radio, you should also be able to set the ESC to max at 50% on full throttle. Also, are you using stock gearing? maybe you can try going down one tooth on the pinion...

Thanks!

I'm really impressed with the torque tuned motor I'm using in my re-re sand scorcher, I think it was designed to run in buggies...slight edge in top end speed over a silver can, but night and day difference in torque (which means doing some great donuts) and the battery times are pretty much identical....It makes the buggy an absolute joy to run in the dirt. Your ESC shouldn't even break a sweat with it...It's also pretty cheap....around $15 USD I wouldn't go with a much 'hotter' motor for any of the re-release's...they really weren't designed to handle crazy speed.

Nice, never knew those existed! Thanks =)

That makes sense, thanks!

I have a buddy with 3 cars in the works right now....About a year ago, we both agreed to have a M chassis build off and a race. Well, since then, he decided to buy a Scorpion and a T-Maxx. A year later, I'm still waiting for him to put the decals on his M-06 so I can race him with my M-05. His car has been sitting with a semi-finished body for about 6 months now....drives me crazy! LOL Whenever I get a new kit, I tend to become absolutely obsessed with it and usually finish it in about a week, depending on whether I have to wait for hop ups...If I break something, same thing, the frustration and contemplating getting to that broken part weighs heavily on my mind until I can fix it...I've even called in sick to work so I could work on a model.....I think I may have a problem!

Thanks guys! One more question, Do brushless motors (with roughly the same number of turns) draw less current than their brushed counterpart since they are more efficient? I have a Sand Scorcher with a torque tuned motor (27T) and a M-05 with a 13.5T brushless. I would imagine the brushless would still draw more since it has half the number of turns...meaning I would set the alarm at a lower voltage.

I apologize if this has been asked before, but I was looking at some 2000mah 2s lipo's that seem to be decently priced. Is there any benefit in run time over, say a 2000mah nimh since the capacity is the 'same'? I know there are other benefits, such as longevity, durability and no 'memory' effect over nicads and nimh's. Does the vehicle slow down as the lipo discharges or does the battery alarm/cutoff stop it before that? Also, I know I will need a low voltage alarm since I'm using Tamiya ESC's in 2 out of 3 of my cars...I noticed a lot of the alarms need to be set by the user. What would be the proper voltage cut off to prevent damage to the battery? The Arrma ESC in my Neo Scorcher is supposed to cut off at 3.2v/cell, is that a good setting for an alarm? Thanks!

I've found that NiMh batteries are absolutely infuriating to maintain. I've tried multiple chargers and it is always 'hit or miss' how they will perform on any given day. I can usually get about 6-10 months out of one before they just fail to hold a charge. Last night I trashed a ruined Venom nimh because my peak charger apparently overcharged it too many times. I don't seem to have the overcharge/overheat issue with Nicads. Nicads seem to hold up better and they are dirt cheap (I recently bought a duratrax onyx 1800mah for under $10), but of course they don't have the punch or capacity of a nimh in pristine condition. I'm asking Santa for Lipo's, of course I'll need lipo alarms for my 3 models since Tamiya doesn't feel the need to make their ESC's Lipo compatible =)

Neat! I don't understand what you're streaming though? are you streaming the video games or yourself?

Excellent info....will probably 'invest' in the granite next pay day =)

+1 4wd buggies with silver can motors are total dogs....my Neo Scorcher came with a silver can and I think it topped off at about 12mph with very little pulling power out of turns.

Xv01

Had a great time, Dave...whew, that Florida humidity is killer though! Thanks again and take care!