steelo

Well, I hate to say this but I'm an idiot sometimes ;-) I realized that when I replaced my pinion gear, I used a standard 48p gear and not a metric 0.6 mod...didn't realize there was a difference. After finally replacing it with the correct pitch gear, the gears sound...well, like gears should =) I've heard that the 3Racing gears aren't very good so I'll have to see how long they last me Doh!

No, unfortunately it's very limited when it comes to settings/options. The only button visible on the charger is to select the charge rate (1 tap for 1 amp/hour, 2 taps for 2 amps/hour, etc)

Thanks guys! Yup, that's the charger =) I'm thinking it's probably the battery that is going bad. From what I hear, Venom battery packs don't have the best rep for quality (or not catching on fire) The charger sometimes gives an error charging my nicads (blinking red light) and I just reset the charger and it will continue where it left off. The nicads are usually very warm but not scalding hot like my nihm after I charge it.

Provide real shocks in all of their kits and steel pinion gears.

It's a Radient Origin charger, it's supposed to charge nimh and nicads...probably a bad charger =(

Hi, I have an Origin smart charger that I'm using to charge a Venom 3800mah nimh 7.2v battery. I usually set the amperage at 3 amps/hr, which should be pretty conservative. Even after about an hour and a half of charging, the charger seems to be 'stuck' on trickle charge. I usually give it about 20 more minutes and check it, but usually by that time the battery is so hot it's untouchable....even then, the charger still indicates it is on trickle charge (blinking green light) This has happened about 3-4 times with this particular battery, so I'm not sure if this is a problem with the charger or the battery, it seems like the charger isn't picking up that the battery has peaked and shutting off like (or actually trickle charging it) like it should....I have some cheap 1800mah duratrax Nicads that definitely get warm but the charger shows a solid green light (indicating a full charge) after a little over an hour.

Very nice =)

I've tried to research this a little bit and it looks like an ESC designed for 550 motors is able to run 540 sized motors as long as the 540 has a higher turn rating...I'm just not sure what the conversion or rule of thumb how many turns an ESC can handle between a 550/540 motor. Thanks =)

Hey guys, This may be a stupid newbee question, but today I ordered an ARRMA Mega 12T Brushed ESC. The problem is, it says it's compatible with 550 size motors and I have a 17T Reedy Radon 540 size motor. It appears that the bullet connectors would be compatible, along with everything else...but I'm not sure it will work. There seems to be no mention that it works with 540 size motors. Does anyone know if this ESC is compatible with my motor? Thanks!

I think they include the Tamiya TBLM-01 ESC with some of the Transpeed motors

Awesome, thanks!

I did a search on ebay and they seem to have a lot of decently priced crystals. I would imagine Krypton would be too difficult of a journey ;-)

Won't that suck dirt and debris onto the ESC? I mainly run on loose dirt

I'm sure a Perfex radio would work but I had terrible luck with mine that came with a Kyosho DBX 2.0. It lasted about 2 months before all channels started going bonkers (servos twitching with no user input) and it became unusable. I tried different servos but no luck. I researched the radio online and apparently I'm not alone. I eventually got so frustrated that I just threw it in the trash...Might just be a fluke though that Kyosho has since corrected

Thank you

Hi all, I'm using a Duratrax Sprint ESC with a 17T Reedy Radon motor. I know this ESC is only meant for 20T+ and so far no thermaling, but man does the heatsink get hot.... I'm thinking about using a tiny CPU fan I have lying around and attaching it to the heatsink but I am not sure which way the fan should blow air? Should it blow the hot air away from the ESC or suck in cool air from the outside? The car I'm using is a Neo Scorcher and as many people know, there is not a whole lot of room for airflow under the body! Thanks!

I think you may be able to get away with going with a lower turn motor with these ESC's for on road use. I've tried an Arrma 15T and a Reedy Radon 17T with a TEU-104BK in my Neo Scorcher and the esc thermals about every 5 minutes on flat dirt... Might try the computer heatsink idea or maybe a very tiny computer fan =)

That stinks...sounded boring

I've had plenty of Tyco's in my younger days and I think they are either 27, 49 or 45mhz, I remember my friend used the same channel as my 'Heads Up' in his Fasttraxx and I was so mad that I couldn't race him =( I wonder if you could swap out the radio and servos and custom install your own...

Had the same issue with my SS...very annoying (and embarassing) I had to degrease the joint and use some high strength epoxy to keep the axle in there. I didn't see any grub screws so that is the only way I could conteplate keeping the wheel on =)

Please Kyosho...for all that is holy, re-release the Optima!

Sounds like a plan! Thanks

Good job troubleshooting!

Maybe some of the other fine folks on here can give you more input...I'm at a loss really =(

I'm really not sure if it would or not....I'm just trying to brainstorm everything. It does sound like something is wrong with that one channel on your rx, either internal damage/defect or the port is faulty. You mentioned that the car stopped moving and had to be reset but the steering worked fine...as a last shot, I'd say make sure the motor leads have a good connection and verify that the motor works properly. I know you tried 2 sets of ESC's but are the leads on the motor in decent shape? I think a bad motor connection can cause the ESC not to initialize and set up. Hopefully it's something simple like that and the radio isn't bad...