steelo

Maybe try rebinding the rx with the transmitter. Double check your throttle settings on the tx Is there a way to reset the transmitter to the factory defaults in case a setting is way out of whack?

I would make sure the throttle input on the receiver looks normal (terminals not touching each other or broken) and is free of any dirt or debris. Once in awhile mine gets full of dirt and acts funky. Take a spray air bottle or air compressor and make sure the terminals are clean. I would also make sure the polarity is correct if it lets you plug the ESC up either way. Not sure though about the ESC not being able to be set.. Sorry, that's the only thing I can think of...

It's a Reedy Radon 17T

Took the car apart last night and removed the motor. The motor seems to be ingesting TONS of dirt and would not freely turn without shaking the dirt and pebbles out of it. I do have the motor guard on so not sure how else to shield it. I think I probably need to stick the motor in water and run it on low speed for a bit to clean it up. Still not sure though if that is causing drivetrain to lock up or if it's the gears...

This probably sounds crazy, but I've actually melted a small portion of a parts tree (with a heat gun) to fill the stripped out hole, let it cool, molded it to be flat and then drilled a new hole to set the screw in. Just don't melt it to the point it is burning Sounds silly, but going on a year and still holding =)

Okay, I will give this a try. Thanks

Thank you for the response....the internal differential seems to move freely when the wheels lock up. If I turn one wheel, the opposing wheel does move in the opposite direction. What happens is the motor just stops and when I attempt to roll the car, the gears just grind. My diffs are not in the best of shape, so that may be causing the locking issues...hopefully an entirely new gear set will fix the issue! I have read about the boiling method, doesn't that only apply to nylon gears?

I've noticed that folks on this forum have somehow reinforced their Neo Scorcher's differential/pinion gear. What is involved in doing that? I was going to order the DF-02 metal gears but am just going to use the extra plastic set I ordered awhile back. Are they reinforcing the differential gear or the pinion? I'm also not sure which one is causing the skipping, but they don't seem to be able to handle the 17T motor I put in it. I'm also having issues with all 4 wheels intermittently locking up after the car stops. If I attempt to turn the wheels by hand, I hear/feel gears grinding. I usually have to drop the car a few times from a couple of feet and finagle with it to free them up...I read about people having this issue with the DF-02 metal gear set before they filed the pinion down, but I'm still using the stock plastic set. Thanks!

May be a dumb question but does anybody have experience running a Duratrax Sprint ESC with lower turn motors? I know it is rated for 20-27T but I've had it sitting around for about 5 years collecting dust. I am wanting to see if it can power a Reedy Radon 17T motor without thermaling. My Tamiya BK-104 ESC does not do well running it and I'm trying to get away without having to buy another ESC.... Thanks!

Great input, thank you everyone!

Every time I run it with this gearset, I'm just WAITING for that awful sound when you hear the motor moving but the car stands still...

I am completely with markbt3...it has given me the confidence I need to attempt repairs on things I probably otherwise wouldn't attempt....ie: building a shed, fixing a washing machine, replacing belts on my vehicles, adjusting the valves on my motorcycle. I have friends who are completely useless when it comes to fixing anything other than replacing a light bulb. On the other hand, the hobby costs me A LOT of money...

Very true, You learn very quickly to take care of them when you're the one who has to tear it down to repair it =)

How is the gearbox in the Mad Bull? He likes to put it in reverse then gun it in forward...that is badword for most gears

Thanks...I completely agree, a Mad Bull, Hornet or Grasshopper I think would be a good first experience. They are cheap, slow (with a silver can) and should be able to take some abuse from a 10 year old showing his 'stunt abilities' Superglue will be the best tool he can buy. Didn't Tyco make a car/truck that was virtually crashproof in the 80's/90's? I think it had wheels so big that you could flip it and run it upside down, you also couldn't crash into anything without the oversized balloon tires hitting first...LOL The Nikko 'Lobo 2' was my first car and was virtually unbreakable with its huge bumper and heavy plastic. I loved the 'fast' and 'slow' gear switch on the back of it...I remember running it against Kyosho's and other 'real' buggies on a local indoor dirt track with my dad and beating them in the turns because half of them would skid off of the track, while I could keep mine at full speed...Of course I would get obliterated on the straights =)

I've recently built a tt-02b, and it was a really easy build (and easy to fix) The problem with on road cars is that you really need a perfectly smooth lot to run them. They really can't take much abuse and I think jumps and 'stunts' are what he wants. My M05 is a terrible first car for beginners, hard to control and easy to break

Thank you everyone, That sounds like that would be a really good first choice...Just hope he likes the body styling. He just watched the new 'Fast and the Furious' so all he talks about are the on road muscle cars and the drifters...I hope he's not set on having to get one of those for his first car. He also told me all about how he's going to convert his transformer into an r/c car and all the 'super moves' it will do...

Hi everyone, My friends son came over this weekend and I let him bash around my M-05 (very bad choice) and Neo Scorcher. He's never driven an R/C car before and I was cringing watching him throttle the heck out of my little mini, give it full reverse and immediate full forward and just about run into inanimate objects at full speed. He seemed to have a lot of fun and of course is now going to ask his mother for the fastest imaginable r/c car...lol I tried explaining to him that he probably needs to start with something slower until he gets better at driving. He also wants something he can build himself...I just don't know if Tamiya makes a kit with instructions a 10 year old would be able to understand, but I wouldn't mind helping him. I explained to him the different parts (radio,servo, battery, ESC) and what they do, but I don't think he really cared about anything other than making my poor M05 flip 5 feet up in the air... Any ideas of a kit that is simple enough for this young guy to understand what he is doing? I think he also needs something relatively slow (grasshopper or hornet) Being 10, he of course wants a 'super fast' on road car, but the faster the car is, the faster his mom is going to be out $100+

I'm starting to see what people are talking about with these gears. I posted in my other thread, but overall very disappointed with this gear set.

I have double and triple checked that the gears are meshing and they look to be good. The gears are just SO loud, but I did test the car out and I don't hear any 'clicking' like the gears are slipping. All of the gears are very well lubed, but they sound like they are running bone dry. I think they just aren't manufactured to Tamiya standards and therefore don't mesh up well... I went ahead and ordered the 'g part's bag' from Tamiya and will just use these 3Racing gears until they strip out. I have 3Racing shocks and steering parts in the M05 and they seem to be of pretty good quality, however I'm not very impressed with these gears...

Hi, yes, the holes are in pairs of 2 on the motor but for some reason it seems to matter which set of holes I use. I will try your suggestion and cover up the holes that I don't want to use. I have been able to get both motor screws in, but for some odd reason, the motor isn't aligning correctly like when I had the casing apart...I don't understand why. The pinion/spur gears sound awful and are not meshing. I'm wondering if I can find some short machine screws and just mount the motor from the inside of the gear box and then just put the casing together...this way I would know the gears are meshing properly and not have to guess based on sound/feel. Wish this car was easier to work on!

I am having a heck of a time getting this new gear set to mesh properly with the pinion. I've come to realize by temporarily mounting the motor with the gear box open that it seems to mesh using the 16T pinion mounting hole. However, whenever I put the gear box back together and attempt to mount the motor, the gears sound awful, like they just aren't meshing. It's really frustrating because once the gear case is together, you can't see a thing that is going on in there. Lining the motor up to use the specific mounting holes makes me want to pull my hair out...you just can't see where the holes are on the motor to line up and the motor has 4 mounting holes, you have to use a specific 2 for some reason...I had to stop myself from throwing the car against the wall last night Any ideas? Thanks!

Thank you! I can definitely see that with the differential ring gears, they don't seem to be particularly strong. I'm sure they weren't designed to handle much more power than what a 27T silver can or a sport tuned can provide. I'm wondering if swapping the front and rear differentials is what helped. The rear differential appears to be taking the majority of the wear (and lots of dirt). I may try using larger pinion gears in the future to lower the torque that seems to cause the differentials to flex and skip with this motor. The motor also seems to get blazing hot with the 17T pinion in it, of course I'm at full throttle for about 15 minutes... As far as the motor mount, it is mounted so that the proper markings are front facing (away from the motor so they are readable from the outside. Is that correct?

Hi everyone, I first apologize if this is long winded...I'm just at a loss I seem to have an issue with stripping gears in my TT-02B. A few weeks ago, I stripped the pinion and spur gears. I figured it was just a fluke since I used the crappy aluminum pinion so I ordered a new 'high strength' spur off of ebay and ran it with the stock 17T steel pinion. Well, on Saturday I was running it and heard an intermittent 'clicking' Eventually it got to the point where it would grind every time I accelerated or powered through a turn. I tore it apart and the spur gear doesn't look 'bad' but it does show some wear on it. The front differential and bevel gears look okay, although the rear ones do look to have a bit more wear. The steel pinion gear to an untrained eye looked to be pristine.... I replaced the 17T pinion with a 20T aluminum one I had lying around. I also swapped the front and rear differentials to see if that made a difference...So far, it seems to 'work' I do hear the teeth slip quite a bit (mainly on acceleration and tight turns) but it at least accelerates and moves well...what is frustrating is that I can't really tell which gears are slipping...I put the 'black' Tamiya grease on all of my gears (can't recall what it is called at this moment) so I'm pretty sure everything is at least lubed well. I went ahead and ordered the Tamiya 'G parts' tree from ebay and will replace every gear in the car once the car becomes undriveable again. My other concern is the motor mount possibly being warped. When I set the motor in the mount, the gears seem to mesh quite well. However, after I tighten the motor mount screws on the bottom of the chassis, it seems to bind really badly and is very loud. It's like the gears aren't lined up perfectly straight. It takes a bit of fiddling before I can get the noise to go away...It also seems impossible to position the pinion gear on the motor shaft so it is 100% lined up with the spur. It seems to be leaving a tiny 'wear' spot on the edge of the spur gear, but since the pinion isn't touching it, I don't believe that to be an issue. I can't tell you how many times I've double and triple checked to make sure the motor is mounted in the correct position (according to the pinion size) I'm running a Reedy Radon 15T motor with a 7.2V nimh....I'm wondering if it just has too much torque with a 17T pinion... I've been getting about 10 runs betweeen having to change the gears and I do run the snot out of the car but only on flat, loose dirt in a baseball park. I'm usually at 90-100% throttle the entire life of the battery (about 10-15 minutes at a time) kicking up loose dirt on turns. As you can imagine, the car gets quite filthy, but I always make a case of blowing out all of the dirt and dust before my next run...Does anybody know what my issue could be??? Thanks!

Thank you, that helps...It looks like from the description I CAN use the 20T pinion in it, but I'm sure the motor mounting locations are going to be all screwy (no pun intended) So I'm guessing, based on that information, if I were to use the 33T spur with a 20T pinion (1.65 gear reduction vs stock 1.85) I should theoretically get about a 11% increase in top speed (in a perfect world) This summer I'm having a little race with my buddy, who has a M06...he's using a 3500kvh reaktor motor and ESC, stock gearing while I'm using a 13.5T 3050kvh neewer motor with the Tamiya TBLE ESC and HS gear set....I'm hoping I'll be able to keep up on the straights =) The gear stripping definitely wasn't planned, but it did give me a chance to change out the gears and refresh all of the ball bearings, which should improve the top end speed a little. I also added some of the Tamiya AW grease to the differential because I was losing way too much speed in turns... It may just come down to who crashes less =)