steelo

Hi Lentner...yes, I tested it with a completely different radio system that I have been using in other vehicles and it seemed to work 100% fine with it. As far as the twitching, the servo momentarily ‘twitches’ only when I turn the power switch on. With radio function, the servo and ESC do nothing when given input from the transmitter. The receiver also has a red LED light which no longer illuminates when you give it power. I thought MAYBE I would be able to bind my transmitter to my good receiver since they are both 2.4ghz DSM (or whatever it’s called) but so far, no luck…

I thought about that, but I figured it would just be another entrance for dirt to get in

Hi, I forgot to mention that I did check the ESC and it was barely warm. It was bone dry outside that day and last night I pulled the receiver apart and it looks to be pretty clean inside. Unfortunately, I cannot locate the receipt for the radio and the hobby shop where I purchased it is less than welcoming with any kind of returns.

Thanks, I’m using the ‘Yeah Racing’ aluminum motor mount and I did install the cardboard ‘gasket’ on the motor. In the past, I have used masking tape to help seal the cover but it doesn’t seem to keep everything out. I swear this dirt spot I run my car is bad luck…LOL

Hi guys, We seem to be having issues with the electronics in my wife’s Tomahawk. Over the weekend, she ran it with a 2s lipo battery and after about 15 minutes of running, she said “My car’s smoking”. I noticed that the motor was scorching hot and smelled like something was burning, so I immediately turned everything off and disconnected the battery. After letting it cool for about an hour, we ran it again…the car seemed a bit slow but I figured the battery was probably weak by then. Well, yesterday after work, it was nice outside so she wanted to run it again. When everything was plugged up and turned on, the car would stutter really bad. Eventually, the motor stopped working altogether. I figured, well shucks….her motor probably is shot. Now, the receiver won’t turn on. When you turn the switch on, the steering twitches, but after that nothing will move. The radio is a 2 month old Tactic 2 channel radio and we are using a Hobbyking 90 amp‘X-Car’ ESC with a Turnigy 2s lipo battery. The ESC turns on and everything with the ‘bad’ receiver, but doesn’t go through it’s full ‘song’ when you turn it on. I tried another receiver I had lying around and the steering now seems to work fine…of course, the motor barely turns. Now, I know the motor is shot (no biggie because it was just a spare J-motor), but what the heck happened to her brand new radio? Could the motor burning up have cause some kind of short which ruined her receiver? Thanks!

Hey, thanks for the reply…I can certainly do that. I haven’t figured out so much dirt is getting in there, it seems pretty sealed to me but it does kick up a lot of dirt when I run it through the field.

Hi guys, I have a TT-02B and am having issues with dirt getting into the motor cover and causing loud ‘grinding’. I’ve been running it on a unused baseball field which consists of loose dirt and a lot of small rocks. I’ve had this problem before and purchased a heat sink to help prevent small rocks and dust from entering the motor through the fins. It works to a degree (the motor isn’t full of dirt) but the gearbox still is… The gears are new and still seem to be in good shape but I’m sure with dirt and pebbles getting lodged in the gears, that won’t last long… I’m wondering if maybe I can make some kind of foam or rubber ‘gasket’ to place under the cover to prevent this issue…I'm tired of having to take the cover off after each run and blowing out the dirt and debris with my air compressor. Also, having to constantly loosen/re-tighten the cover will probably eventually cause the screw mounts to strip. Any ideas???

Hey everyone, Could anybody give a recommendation on what shock oil to use for a re-release Tomahawk? The shocks seem to be very spongy with the included shock oil (not sure what weight was supplied in the kit) Also, the left shock seems to be recoiling very slowly (and not fully) like it's low on oil.

I’ve had good luck with the Arrma brushed ESC, it handles down to a 12T 550 motor and is pretty cheap (around $30 USD). It also has a lipo cutoff. I’ve also used a hobbyking ESC with my 20T motor with no thermaling issues. It is very basic but it does have a lipo cutoff function and works just fine for a $8 ESC.

Hope you have fun with the build, my wife really enjoyed this kit!

Hey Cannondale, are you in Lexington, KY too??? I live by Whittaker Ball Park. Nice video, I just ordered the Optima from Towerhobbies but it won't be here till April

Haha!

Thanks everyone, it breaks my heart but it’s going to be a runner (I'm only allowed to run it with her permission...lol). We’ve decided we’ll probably stick a sport tuned motor in it, so nothing too crazy. I’m wondering if we should clear coat the paint on the inside to prevent chipping. It still needs an ESC and motor, and the lights installed (and a little tidying up with the wires) but it's about 95% done MY next project (hopefully) will be the Optima! It will be awesome running these 2 together

Hey guys, Here is the Tomahawk my wife built, still needs the lights (she’s wanting real, working lights) Although I’m not a huge fan of the translucent body, she really likes it so it’s going to stay that way =)

Thanks everyone...finally got it, it appeared the castor lock was rotated too far upwards on the bar (the part with the large black grub screw on picture above) causing the bizarre angles. Thanks for the pictures! Thats a beautiful Scorpion

Initially I was thinking that too, but if I remember correctly there are hash marks on the bar that line up with the center groove of the blocks.

Haha, thanks…she did a really good job for it being her first build. I probably would have goofed up on the steering too, it’s always tricky. She still has to paint the body, but I always let her paint my bodies and she always does a fantastic job with the paint and decals. (steadier hand, I think) =)

Okay, I'll have to double check when I get home...she might have confused them. Thanks again!

Gotcha, I think that's what happened...they are labeled L and R, but is that from the front or back of the car?

Thanks, so the lower trailing arms are the metal 'arms' below the upper arms that the steering rods link to?

Uploaded a better quality picture in initial post, thanks

One other note, even with all of the rods disconnected, the wheels seemed to pivot at a very bizarre angle....turning seemed to create very awkward caster/camber angles, Is that normal? The front beam and castor block had hash marks (I guess as a guide) and they appear to be lined up.

Thank you so much, I'll look at it again when I get home. You were a great help!

Thanks, everything is adjusted to the length specified in the manual...that's why we are so confused

Hey guys, This may be a noob question, but I recently acquired a Kyosho Tomahawk for my wife to assemble (this is her first model she’s ever put together) and she seems to be having trouble with the front wheel alignment. I checked her work 4-5 times, the tie rods are exactly what the instructions said to set them at and I don’t see any obvious mistakes. If you look at the front wheels though, something is just not right. Can anybody tell from my picture what could be wrong? I’m baffled, the only thing I know to do is to lengthen the tie rods, but then they would be much longer than what the instructions say… Thanks =) *edited to add bigger picture