steelo
-
Posts
599 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by steelo
-
-
Please forgive the fingerprints and smudges!
-
1
-
-
-
6 hours ago, alvinlwh said:
These are probably the problem.
Thanks for your help everyone. In this case, I'll probably switch over to my Arrma ESC that can handle down to 15T. In theory, it should have no issues with a 23T motor even with taller gearing.
-
2 hours ago, Twinfan said:
What gearing are you running? You'll want 9:1 or higher for a Sport Tuned.
I think the options were 6.9:1 or 8.3:1. I believe I'm running the higher top end 6.9:1, so that may explain it...
-
1
-
-
3 hours ago, Mouc-RC said:
A bit strange indeed. On my Jugg & TXT-2 I had to put an ESC-fan, but there's two motors... And with the fan, no more probs.
Is your steering servo OK ? To me, the BEC of Tamiya ESCs are quite over-protected; if the steering servo is "hungry" for some reason, BEC security works a bit too much sometimes.
Not sure about the servo. It's a tower hobbies high-torque servo but brand new.
-
Hi everybody,
Sorry I haven't been on in quite awhile, had our first daughter and have had little time for "fun"!
I recently assembled a Kyosho Scorpion and decided to use a leftover Tamiya tble-02 ESC paired to a Tamiya Sport Tuned motor. It's been in the lower 80's here but not humid. I attempted to run in an empty baseball field (all flat dirt) and the ESC would thermal shutdown every few minutes. This was with completely stock gearing running a 6 cell nimh battery. To be fair, I was at full throttle at least 75% of the time just because it wasn't terribly fast and I had a lot of room. However, it was soooo much fun creating dust clouds =)
I understand with the design of the Scorpion, there is little to no air flow, but I thought a relatively vanilla sport tuned motor would barely cause the esc to break a sweat. I also have an Arrma brushed ESC that is supposed to handle down to 15T. Any suggestions or should I just swap out the ESC?
Thanks!
-
Those look like cool little cars. Its a shame the price of tamiyas here has skyrocketed though...
-
1
-
-
Thanks everyone. I ended up not getting the underbody cover and it definitely fills up with dirt. I did use electrical tape on the bottom of the two chassis halves and unused motor mounting holes to prevent dirt from getting into the gear box. Unfortunately, some dirt does get in there through the motor vents and the gap where it mounts to the chassis. I’m running the gears dry as not to attract even more dirt, it also makes it easier to use compressed air to clean. Grease + dirt and sand = very bad
After I put the car up for the day, I take my air compressor and clean it the best I can.
-
So, I finally got the M05 RA parts and went ahead and installed them. It adds quite a bit of gound clearance, in conjunction with the block tires. I took it to a local baseball diamond that was relatively flat to try it out. Holy cow, what a blast this thing is on dirt! I couldn't believe how well the tiny wheels gripped. Now, I did end up stripping the spur gear because apparently I didn't set the pinion correctly. I've torn the car apart so many times now, that it wasn't a big deal to replace. I think part of the problem was I'm using a 15T motor, which really is way too hot for this model. I ran it again tonight and set the throttle end point to 70% and no break-downs. I even was able to keep pace with my wifes Kyosho Tomahawk in the dirt! As another poster pointed out, I did notice it tends to slow down quite a bit (diff out) on the turns but still great fun. Since I also run it on tarmac, I probably will just keep the differential as is.
Overall, very happy to have done this conversion. What's cool is that I can just throw the slicks back on it to run on the street. It's like 2 cars in one!

-
1
-
-
I like the 33 deg 'sweep' slicks for just playing around in a parking lot. You can find them relatively cheap on ebay. The radial tires that came with my M05 lasted about 2 runs before they were bald. I've also tried the Tamiya super grip and they didn't last much longer.
-
2
-
-
The Scorpion/Tomahawk and Beetle are probably the cheapest Kyosho retro options that are tough and perform relatively well in the dirt. Both are great models – I’m impartial to the Optima, but it’s a bit more expensive and complex to build.
-
I don’t know if you like the re-release kits, but I have an Optima, Scorpion, Tomahawk, and a ‘hang on rider’ motorcycle…all really great retro Kyosho's, but the Optima is by far my favorite, it was a 'must have' for me. The re-releases all seem to be well thought out and the kits are packaged beautifully. I ran the snot out of the tomahawk and Optima a few weeks ago on a dirt track and nothing broke, despite my 6 and 7 year old nephews crashing them into everything.
For newer cars, the Sandmaster is kind of an entry-level buggy and seems really ‘cheap’ to me. If you like trucks, the Mad Crusher looks like a really cool model to own. They have a brushless and a nitro version.
-
Every nimh battery I've ever purchased may have a small charge which was enough to basically turn the ESC on to make sure it works. I would always give it a full charge before I actually run it though.
-
I used a HPI 15T firebolt in my TT-02B, it was okay. Fairly fast and good acceleration with a standard size pinion. My friend also had a HPI firebolt in his Neo Scorcher and it started smoking after the first run with standard gears. I've heard several places that these motors are hit or miss.
I've been using the same Arrma Mega 15T brushed motor in several vehicles and I can't kill it. They're dirt cheap and relatively quick. It's starting to show its age though, the motor is definitely louder but haven't noticed a drop in performance.
-
1
-
-
On 8/7/2018 at 1:15 PM, Pteppic said:
I'd recommend upgrading the F parts on a rally conversion, the "ra" F parts have 2 sets of holes to allow you to use a standard or higher ride height, and it is useful have the extra ground clearance in a rally car.
I've got a couple of M chassis cars, and all have been changed to the M-05Ra parts to give me the choice in the future.
Here's a handy link: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tamiya-51425-M-05Ra-F-Parts-Upright-M05Ra-Swift-Alpine-A110-Renault-5-NIP-/391767748615
Thanks, I went ahead and ordered the Ra 'F' parts. I'm going to keep the Yeah racing short shocks I currently have, they're pretty nice and still in decent shape...I think ground clearance is the big issue with taking the M-05 off-road. Still waiting on the rally tires to arrive.
So, once I get everything put together, I'll have a skid plate I made to fit over the bumper and the bottom of the gearbox, Tamiya 60d block rally tires and extra ground clearance. Is there anything else that I need to worry about?
-
1
-
-
Thanks, I'm still waiting for my rally tires. I have it completely rebuilt (with new gears, no grease) and sealed the unused pinion holes with rubber cement. I ran it last night and after a bit of a front end alignment, it runs beautifully. I also added kind of a skid plate I made out of a soda can to protect the gearbox and plastic underneath.
-
1
-
-
I had a TT-02B a few years ago and the car was an absolute nightmare with destroying gears. This car had the weakest drive train of any RC car I've ever owned...I've never had this problem with other R/C cars.
I used to try to run it on a dirt baseball field and could barely make it through 1 battery before I started hearing the dreaded 'clicking' meaning the pinion/spur gears were starting to skip. Like you mentioned, it's all downhill from there.This was on a fairly mild brushed motor (21T). I tried for months to remedy the problem by sealing the gearbox, aluminum motor mount, lube, no lube, I even replaced the entire chassis thinking maybe something was out of place from the Tamiya factory. I (think) the problem was that the plastic gearbox/mounts allowed way too much play between the gears. You have a plastic gearbox with metal tapping screws holding the cover (and gears) in place. Essentially, it is a very crappy design and I'm surprised Tamiya hasn't corrected it yet.
Anyways, I had no luck and eventually just pulled out all of the electronics and chucked it in the garbage. That car was a HUGE disappointment.
-
Thanks, I think I forgot to mention that I’m using the Yeah Racing aluminum shocks…I don’t think there are any spacers that I can remove to give additional travel. I am hoping that the rally tires give me a few more millimeters of space under the chassis. I believe I’ve seen youtube videos of people using completely stock set ups on a baseball field. I will be fabricating a lightweight skid plate for the front probably out of a soda can, if it doesn’t hold up then I’ll maybe go to a hardware store and get some stronger grade metal to mount. I also plan on using something like hot glue or putty to plug the unused pinion holes and maybe using a piece of tape to cover up the slight gap between the two chassis halves.
I’ve ran the heck out of the car for about 5 years now, so the chassis is pretty beat up at this point.
-
1
-
-
Hey everyone,
Well, after tearing apart my M-05 to clean and replace a stripped gear, I’ve thought about converting it to a rally car. So far, the only ‘part’ I’ve purchased are the Tamiya 60D rally block tires. From what I’ve read they have roughly a 10% larger diameter with the treads, so I’m hoping it will give enough ground clearance for relatively tame off roading. I know that I’ll also definitely need a skid plate and shield so the chassis doesn’t fill up with dirt and stones. I could fabricate my own skid plate out of aluminum but don’t see how I can properly attach it. I’ve read other people buying the M05 rally edition suspension parts, but am wondering if that’s really necessary…I don’t want to shell out too much money on longer shocks too (and the car has seen better days). Right now I’m using an Arrma 15T motor which realistically is too fast for this chassis, I may just set my throttle end point down to 75% on dirt. Anyways, has anybody had any success doing this without adding the rally edition parts and longer shocks?
-
1
-
-
I've ran a Neewer 13.5T brushless with a Tamiya TBLE-02 in a Arrma Granite 2wd monster truck. The ESC did get very hot and would thermal occasionally, especially on dirt and grass.
I've also tried running a Arrma Mega 15T brushed motor a TBLE-02 and it shut off every few minutes.
IMO, I'd wouldn't go lower than a 23T brushed/17.5T brushless. A Tamiya sport tuned would work great with it.
-
Well, I don't have a 1:1 replica, but I love my Indian Scout!

-
On 5/18/2018 at 4:19 PM, Shodog said:
I have one set up with a DM 20 motor and a CPR unit from a Tamtech 1/24 scale car. In that form it was pretty lame but with a mild brushless motor it would be just right.
It's not a fast model with the stock DM20, the motor doesn't have much in the way of torque or top end. I'm too afraid to put a brushless in it because I mainly run it on my narrow street. It's hard enough as it is to not crash it...
-
On 5/12/2018 at 3:35 PM, Bromley said:
I know this post is a couple of months old now but I've been looking for just this sort of thing. Looks like not many firms got into RC bikes. I remember seeing them about 20 plus years ago and thinking in time with the right tech they'll be sure to catch on...how wrong!
I just love my 1:1 bikes and an RC one would be sweet.
I love my 1:1 bike too and it's pretty cool how realistic this bike handles. In stock form, don't expect amazing speed...I think it's plenty fast for what it is, but it's definitely slower than a silver can Tamiya model.
-
I use 2 Turnigy 3000 mah lipos, 1 for practice and the other for racing. The races are around 10 minutes long and have yet to experience any alarms or power issues....heck, I might be able to get 2 races out of 1 pack...maybe...
I'm running a 13.5T brushless motor in a 4wd re re Optima and opted for a smaller capacity, lighter lipo since the chassis is already pretty heavy. Surprisingly, it holds its own though against much more modern buggies in an amateur class =)

Kyosho Scorpion Re-Release
in The Builds
Posted