steelo
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Posts posted by steelo
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I (think) the re-release shocks are larger diameter...you could either replace all 4 with re-release ones or maybe scour ebay.
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Hey guys,
I think I have a winter project in my off time from running my collection. My friend donated a sand scorcher (the re-release version) about 7-8 years ago…I have enjoyed the heck out of it, but it is in sorry shape. Anyways, it is in need of new tires, a new front wheel, improved direct steering with beefier tie rods and I’d like to install a stronger chassis. Right now, it is 75% disassembled for cleaning
I am considering fabricating my own chassis plate either out of 3mm aluminum plating or ¼” aluminum square tubing (like you would find on a lot of the Kyosho cars) I’m definitely not wanting to overcomplicate things, so if I use the aluminum plate I will use the original chassis as a template. Unfortunately, I have a very limited arsenal of tools…I do have an angle grinder to rough cut it and a dremel to smooth the edges, however I’ve never cut sheet metal before...Correct me if my line of thinking is wrong.
Does anybody have any suggestions? Again, I do not want to overcomplicate this and I don’t want to spend tons of money to rebuild it…I realize that the SRB’s have their own charm and trying to improve performance is a waste. I'm mainly trying to restore it to a point where it will last me several more years =)
Thanks!
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Hi everyone, so I’m buying a Traxxas TMaxx from a friend for $200. It’s never been used and he bought a crapload of ‘upgrade’ parts, most of them unnecessary I believe. I’ve been slowly adding these ‘upgrade’ parts to it…here’s the list. Aluminum fuel tank, aluminum servo guard for the steering servo, aluminum servo mounts, wheelie bar, aluminum radio box, tuned exhaust, RPM front and rear bulkheads, RPM top and bottom swing arms for the front and rear, slightly smaller wheels and tires, big bore shocks, aftermarket cooling head and aluminum hexes for the wheels. The truck has yet to be started, I want to get all of these parts on before starting it to avoid everything getting coated in oil.
How many of these parts are really essential? I just finished installing the RPM rear bulkhead and what a PAIN that was. This is not an easy model to work on and there were moments where I almost threw it through my window. Finally, is there anything I need to watch out for with this truck? I have yet to break it in, but what I’m most worried about is the gear mesh since I had to remove/reinstall the engine several times in the build process. I’ve used the ‘paper’ method before, but how do I ensure that the gears are aligned perfectly….I seem to have very bad luck with spur gears for some reason. I bought a Kyosho DBX 2 a few years ago, left it completely stock, never touched the engine mounts and it stripped the spur gear while I was breaking the engine in…I never even gave it full throttle!
Thanks for your help!
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Hi everyone, so I’m buying a Traxxas TMaxx from a friend for $200. It’s never been used and he bought a crapload of ‘upgrade’ parts, most of them unnecessary I believe. I’ve been slowly adding these ‘upgrade’ parts to it…here’s the list. Aluminum fuel tank, aluminum servo mounts, wheelie bar, aluminum radio box, tuned exhaust, RPM front and rear bulkheads, RPM top and bottom swing arms for the front and rear, slightly smaller wheels and tires, big bore shocks, aftermarket cooling head and aluminum hexes for the wheels. The truck has yet to be started, I want to get all of these parts on before starting it to avoid everything getting coated in oil.
How many of these parts are really essential? I just finished installing the RPM rear bulkhead and what a PAIN that was. This is not an easy model to work on and there were moments where I almost threw it through my window. Finally, is there anything I need to watch out for with this truck? I have yet to break it in, but what I’m most worried about is the gear mesh since I had to remove/reinstall the engine several times in the build process. I’ve used the ‘paper’ method before, but how do I ensure that the gears are aligned perfectly….I seem to have very bad luck with spur gears for some reason. I bought a Kyosho DBX 2 a few years ago, left it completely stock, never touched the engine mounts and it stripped the spur gear while I was breaking the engine in…I never even gave it full throttle!
Thanks for your help!
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Ran the Optima yesterday at the usual spot (a nice, dirty baseball field) I must tell you, this is a GREAT performing car and reliability is rock solid. Right now, I have a 3500kv ‘Reaktor’ motor and ESC I’m running with 2s. I’m using the included pinion so top end speed is a little lacking, but it’s PLENTY fast for me. I really didn’t do any massive jumps or anything, but I ran it full throttle for about 15 minutes through the loose dirt. It’s been extremely hot and dry here and with all of the dirt I was kicking up, I think I formed dust clouds overhead. On turns, it has a little bit of over steer (stock tires) but for the most part, the tires held pretty well… drifting in dirt is just massive fun.
The only issue I’ve had so far, (and it’s entirely my fault) is the first time I ran it, I forgot to put the little, round rubber spacer on the outside of the spur gear. This caused the gear to make contact with the inside of the gearbox cover, chewing the spur gear and the cover up pretty good. It was still usable for a while but dirt getting inside the gearbox finished off what was remaining of the gear yesterday. I’m in the process of ordering a new gearbox cover and seal to prevent dirt from getting in and destroying more gears since part of the cover seal tore off. I’m thinking of maybe using a washer on the outside of the cover to form a tighter seal.
Just a random FYI, Tamiya Hornet tires WILL work with the Optima. It appears they are firm enough that you don’t need inserts either. I don’t know how race worthy these tires would be, but should be fine for just bashing. I’m just waiting until my kit tires to completely wear but I tested them and they do fit pretty well.
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True, but even with an electric motor I would think it would be more efficient.
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LOL…true. Most people hate CVT’s but I actually love it in my HRV =)
As far as application in a RC car, I would think it would be beneficial over fixed gears. You should be able to get an ideal gear ratio to provide optimal torque/power.
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I was thinking over the weekend, my (real) car uses a ‘CVT’ transmission which really is nothing more than 2 ‘pulleys’ that change sizes as the vehicle accelerates/decelerates and a belt. What if there was a way to implement this into R/C cars? It seems like a simplistic solution to gain optimal torque and top end speed.
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Just purchased a Honda HRV, my wife drives a Corolla so no speed demons (at least on the real roads) here ;-)
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Done!
I answered that she ‘loves’ AND ‘hates’ my hobby…it depends on the day. LOL
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Thanks,
That’s my concern, right now I’m using the Optima’s stock gearing and the motor is getting pretty warm. Unfortunately, the ESC is very basic and offers no programming functions to change the punch. I’ll have to check my radio’s manual tonight to see if there is a way to ‘increment’ the throttle a little so I can tweak the acceleration. I know you can use the exponential settings to make the steering less aggressive, but I don't know if that's an option for the throttle.
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Hey everyone,
This may be a dumb question, but I’m considering lowering the gear ratio on the re-re Optima not necessarily for added top end speed but to reduce the amount of torque on the gearbox and belt drive. Right now, I’m running a 3500kv Reaktor system with a 2s and the amount of torque that set up produces kind of concerns me. At half to full throttle launches, the front end actually lifts off of the ground for a second.
Will putting a larger pinion cause less stress on the rest of the drivetrain? I know everything will spin faster, but my thinking is that it will at least reduce torsion on everything. If the car is too fast, I can always dial back my throttle EPA settings to 80%.
Lastly, I'm using a 'Flysky' radio for this model, is there a way to reduce the acceleration with a radio setting?
Thanks
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That’s why I’m afraid to run it =( It does look like Kyoshoamerica is finally listing replacement parts, although most say ‘not available’ I’ve already broken one of the plastic steering parts (steering tie) that developed a hairline fracture after a small crash, but was able to superglue it back together.
I really hope finding replacement parts isn’t going to be a problem for this car. It would be great if some of the 3rd party vendors (like 3Racing) develop aluminum ‘hop up’ parts, especially for the steering.
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Very true, what took me the longest was matching the screws and making sure I used the correct ones. The manual is pretty good, just a lot of details that are easily missed.
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I wonder if you can mix sand/powder with the paint to give it a rough asphalt texture?
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Looks nice, did you not want to use the straps?
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Awesome, it would have to be thin. Let us know if it works.
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm willing to bet you could throw on a comparable o-ring instead of using the clear seal.
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I replaced the seal on the shock, it still leaks. It's coming from the clear seal, I watched it as I compressed it
Ugh...that seal is a pain. If you have an extra, I would try putting oil on the shock threads and putting a new one on. Make sure the seal is still flat and not rolled up once you get it on. Ensure all the other seals/parts are on correctly.
Those seals (and e-clips) are the worst part of the assembly!
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Yeah, I know it doesn’t take a genius but just trying to get an idea of what would be a good balance of torque/top end speed for this car =)
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I’m trying to figure out a good pinion size to use. The stock (25T?) pinion provides great torque, but the car seems to lack top end speed. I’m using a 13.5T motor with a lipo. I think the FDR is something like 9:1, which should mean I have a little room to go up 1-2 teeth.
Has anybody tried a 26-27T yet?
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I’ve been using a Axial 27T brushed in my wife’s Tomahawk and it’s plenty fast with a 2s lipo. It’s not much slower than my Optima with a 13.5T and nimh battery.
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I suggest you guys to apply thread lock on OT232.
Luckily, I had found them before I left the track I ran.
Yup, thread lock is a must when you have metal on metal. (Even though the manual only says to use thread lock on maybe 3-4 screws)
After my first run, half of the screws were halfway out. I’ve already lost one. It’s amazing how easily they seem to come loose, even after you torque them down!
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I was about to have a brain aneurysm installing those e-clips on the shocks…
Sand Scorcher chassis project
in Vintage Tamiya Discussion
Posted
Ahhhhh....Thank you very much! I did check ebay but didn't see the carbon fiber one. Me likey a lot =)
Do you think it will be stronger than the factory glass fiber chassis? I'm looking for no flex.