Nobbi1977

So they do exist, I was starting to wonder

TBH the value will not be much more than the time and money you put in to it. Have fun stripping and rebuilding, it might lead to more.

I tend to think of the money as spent as soon as I buy something so if I sell it, even at a loss I am up. I like to build so space for new stuff is worth as much as the selling price

My forum usage swings with my hobby fads. I have to many hobbies and I am all or nothing with them all.

With the big C19 messing my life up I have not done anything with these. i need to dig them out and give them a clean and them move them on. Space is at a premium when you have 1:1 scale toys as well

What login do we use for the tcphotos? Mine does not seem to be recognised or I have forgotten my password. I have always found posting videos to be very easy. Just copy and paste in the link.

Check again 😂

Threads stripped out where the nuts go? 50736 is the Spru number but you can get a pair of alloy ones for the price of a spur full of bits you do not need. Where are you based? Sure someone was giving a load of bits the other day that included a pair of these.

Tamiya bearings? Did you win the Lotto?

Ran the comical Grasshopper for the first time. 17.5t seems about right, still enough to flip it with to much throttle. Eat it’s servo so now a total strip down to get a new one in

Not one I have heard of but I will look them up. I hate the way that with these you need a high torque kit and then an alloy add on from Tamiya. Works out expensive so I will look in to Kimbrough

Hello and welcome back to the fold Shock towers like this work well https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/333440254685 with 85-95mm shocks. I run lots of sag so it recovers from jumps well and corners without flipping. I sound like your servo is toast but it is still better not to hit walls. The steering is not precision so I have not found up grading to metal mounts makes a huge difference. I have found these servos ok for the money. Total overkill but that is better than weak https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283618046092

A 1cm piece of the Tamiya putty per little wheel works well for slow but not locked diffs. If they are not new gears you need to make sure they are 100 clean of grease before you put it on. Then just a little grease on the spider and back of the big gears

It is definitely interesting

It will just not be as fast as it possibly could be. Give it a good run and compare motor temps. I bet the rear will be hotter than the front because it is doing more of the “work”

I find the stock tyres work well in that environment

I think you lot have a jaded view of the world. Facebook is a huge eco system and like the real world you pick and choose where to go based on your likes and interests. I could complain all web forums are full of losers, but basing that opinion on just having been on a Traxxas forum I would be missing out on the lovely people on here. Facebook lets you share stuff, it is not a platform for discussion and debate as much as somewhere like here. People are not overly “showing off” they are sharing what they have or have created. I like Facebook, I am not involved with and RC stuff on there but a lot of the motorcycle groups are fantastic and I get a lot of good information from people sharing their experiences and knowledge.

Only when jumping at full throttle will the motors spin free. No motor is going to hit its free spin revs anyway with the weight of a Clod on it. The motor revs are determined by the vehicle speed and gearing so the faster motor will still spin at the same speed as the slower one. We really need to be measuring torque. Just because a motor can spin at high revs does not mean it actually will given the load placed on it.

Just get a voltage meter and check every few min until you get an idea of usage.

I think the black ones have more off set so will clear the uprights if you use slightly larger spacers. I have a set for sale if you need 2 more to make the set.

Fit the metal shock towers you find on eBay and some 85-95 mm shocks. It transforms the model. I fitted a set of the fibre lyte towers and found them very poor. The cutting out was poorly finished and the holes were to far in board so the shocks hit the tower. The trick with these is to get quite soft springs so a good 1/3 of the extra travel is in sag, you can almost get them cornering like a motorcycle leaning over without rolling

I guess it depends on your driving skills and your set up ability. If you want to get to the A final of the DT Challenge these are not for you. If you are just bashing I found them to be great. If you need the adjustability then you will need the CVAs and the Hop up spring kit as well.

I found the best value for these was the DT-03 hop up kit. Not as changeable as individual CVAs but better value and the settings work well

I ordered an Avante (or thought I had) this was supposed to fill the gap until then 😂

Not the best sticker job. Left the front cage off because the rear one was so bad. The orange does not show well in the camera, this is road worker jacket orange.