Nobbi1977

What type of paint was it? Finding something that will take the paint but not hurt the shell is the key but different shells are made of different stuff. Try pure alcohol on the spru bit in the middle and see how that goes

Quick mental revisit of my hatred of lex shells. Thought this one was going to be easy to cut out but lots of corners are not good for score and snap. Then the pearlescent white reacted out the airbrush and I had to wash it quick. I had a choice of a bit of orange, a bit of purple or a bit of gray. Not a thick coat but it will do. They did a second box art in yellow so this might work

You can as Saito2 states but you have to think why you are doing it. I have had both 2WD and 4 and found the 4 less fun to drive. The extra weight stunts the driving and jumping and the extra gearbox adds no extra speed. You are limited to motor choice because one runs backwards. I have a NIB Bush Devil III if you are looking for a base WT-01. I also have a new spare gearbox if you wanted to go down this route.

I was going through a bag yesterday and I found some steering rods. They might be WT-01 or they might be DT-01.

I might have some arms. Can you post a pic next to a ruler so I can try and identify

Reverse the direction on the controller and then swap the wires on the motor. Your current forward on the controller is reverse on the ESC

Looks like you have the perfect environment to run this type of car. A torque tuned will give you somewhere in the middle of the stock and the sport. If you are using the stock ESC then a cheap sensored brushed motor from eBay might be better. 13.5t will give extra over a silvercan and longer runtimes.

I guess the question is what do you want out of the car. The Grasshopper is primitive at best so speed needs to be accompanied by open spaces. What ESC are you running? That will dictate the maximum motor you can run. For me the Grasshopper and Hornet are best run with a silvercan so a stock 540 or a torque tuned are great. Some have pushed this chassis to greater limits but I think the fun goes when you push it to far.

Nice platform to start out on again. CVAs are a must. They are easy to build now and relatively leak free. The DT-03 hop up kit fits and works well for a good price. Buggy wheels and tyres are always and issue as most wheels are for 4WD fitment. The Blitzer wheels and tyres should fit and I am thinking the new comical range of wheels and tyres will fit (someone will have to back me up on that but I have just given me an idea for running wheels on my DT-03) A Silvercan is cheap and fits with what you have. It will not totally eat batteries and it is only as fast as you pull the trigger ( or push the stick) You could go for the bigger Pinion for a little more speed

Have you got the shocks on? These tend to have massive toe in at full compression. If not then adjust the length of the steering arms to suit. Oh and welcome to the fold, I recommend getting your second kit on order now due to delayed delivery times

That is the best part of this hobby for me 😀

I would keep a folder for each car. List a good description and a minimum value. This is also good for insurance anyway Should the worst happen there will be someone local on here that might be able to help shift them a few at a time. You are lucky my wife has motorcycles to sort 😂

I guess it depends on so many things but I prefer 2 x smaller to one bigger. Slow driving I am getting over 5km from a TRX4 and a Wraith out of a 5200mah. That’s about an hour to an hour and 10 min.

It might just be me but it find the kit servo savers are always half a tooth out. Fit a high torque on and suddenly they are dead centre. It could all be in my head though 🤪

Business that adapt will survive. Those that don’t might not make it unfortunately. Very sad times

I will try and get them out today

Runners are the broken ones waiting to be fixed

Paint it assembled so the joints can be filled and sanded with primer. As for the crack I have a few ideas but not sure how good they all are. JennyMo talked about joining her cut up bodies with Arroldite so that is proven for her. I use the motorcycle trip of a hot soldering iron and a cable tie as filler (old spru for kits). I am sure everyone has there own method for this.

Do the people that buy them keep the boxes they come in?

Always key and always primer. Primer tends to be less likely to react with the base so it gives an even regular bond for the top coats. Primer a few layers and then a very fine dusting of a colour before you flat it back. Where the colour stays you have low sports that need filling or more primer. Your final coats is only as good as your preparation.

I have a few in the loft but I think the more I destroy the more the values for the box polishers goes up.

I would strip it down and give it all a good clean looking for any hidden damage. Rebuild with bearings if it does not already have them. I would replace the mechanical speed controller with the modern electronic one, they are about £20. Post some pictures up here of how it looks before and after

Hello Seems the lockdown is bringing a lot of old models out of the wood work. Do you have a radio and speed controller with the car? They are the biggest changes in the last decade or so and make it much easier and safer to run.

So sorting out a few motors earlier and I found a 3.5T brushless motor. Now I am not a racer and do not have an ESC or batteries that will support a motor like that so why do I have it? I do not remember owning it or buying it. What is your why do I have that part?