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Nobbi1977

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Posts posted by Nobbi1977

  1. The C parts are often raided from shop kits as the front shock tower is probably the most commonly-damaged part on the DT02. Hopefully the seller will send you a new one promptly.

    What is missing from the C bag?

    Missing parts are

    19442103 x 7

    19805853 x 2

    19804511 x 4

    19443023 x 2

    19804158 x 4

    19808244 x 2

    I assume they came in a small additional bag. If they are going to send a tower I assume they can send the bag as well.

    I might have most of the bits in another spares pot but want it right from the start before I start mixing and matching.

    Does anyone do a strengthened shock tower? Might be a good place to start Hopping Up

  2. Well, then... MAAAAN what a steal! Be proud! :D

    Turns out not to be so good. Looks like the kit has been a shop spares raider. The C spur and parts of the C bag are missing.

    First part needed for the build is the shock tower, which is on spur C. Seller contacted so all I can do now is wait.........

    Or start the WT-01 build

    Shooting clay birds later so my day is pretty much gone now

  3. I do love the Madbull for how it looks...and most of it's chassis variants but with every vid I watch all I can see is probably one of the worst designed RC cars of all time :)

     

    Sure it's gonna be fun...it has big wheels and can bounce around....but oh lord...the steering.... and the chassis bounce .... Granted I bet it's still a Riot to drive and lots of fun...and that's why I will have one and will love it...but part of me just keeps on saying NO ... this is amazingly bad for everything... a bit like a citron 2CV .... :)

     

    K

    All my driving will be fun type like GregM's video clip. I guess ultimate chassis control is an aim for some but in 1:1 world I have an old Ducati and a '54 Ariel Hunter so build quality and reliability have always come second to quirkiness for me.

    I guess I m going to end up trying out a good few kits in the next few years so I can contrast and compare.

    Need a colour scheme now. Box art is out because I do not want to buy a sticker kit and fancy making my own

  4. The shocks are not hideously expensive but are about the same as 1:1 car shocks and when you pay £28 for a chassis almost double the cost but I guess that is the fun with the hobby

    Bump steer will be an issue but not as much as the Hornet I think. I thought the same about the rear shocks, the friction ones lock up with side load under movement so I might look at a solution.

    I have a spare pair of Hornet rear oil shocks that look like the might slot on the front. Going to build my Dt-02 tomorrow then I will look at mods.

  5. I probably should have started my lad on a crawler motor, he's 5 going on 6 and thinks the 540 is too slow  :rolleyes:

     

    Don't think I saw a modified motor till I was about 13  :lol:

    Think it depends on the space you have. We have lots of grass but not much hard stuff so a 540 just spins and goes nowhere. I am sure he and me will graduate to much faster things as we go and then my girl, 3, can have the crawler.

    • Like 1
  6. This is my first scratch build. I have a Hornet that I have been playing with and thought it would be good to build a chassis to get a better feel for the hobby.

    I have built race bikes and restored classic bikes so my hands on experience so far is all 1:1

    Why Bull Fighter?

    I ordered a Mad Fighter chassis (well two, the postage made it like getting the second half price) and a Mad Bull body. Hence Bull Fighter.

    I will be running Carson wheels. They are cheap and a good compromise between buggy and truck wheels.

    INSERT BOX PIC HERE

    I forgot to get my garage camera in so missed the first couple of shots

    Steering arms in place

    SAM_1305_zps4e1c27d3.jpg

    Shock tower fitted.

    SAM_1306_zps2d45952e.jpg

    Not happy with the dodgy way steering arms are held on so I think I will replace with cut down M3 bolts and lock nuts

    SAM_1308_zps82ae8345.jpg

    Fitted for now. Want to do it buy the book at least once

    SAM_1309_zpsc302aa93.jpg

    Lower arms ready to go

    SAM_1310_zps261c310a.jpg

    Fitted, lots of play though. Guess that is why there are more expensive kits out there.

    SAM_1311_zps2ce2aed3.jpg

    All connected up. A lot better than the Hornet set up.

    SAM_1312_zps2b7d0e77.jpg

    Shocks built. They are at best poor, these will have to go very fast

    SAM_1314_zps30b64043.jpg

    Ball bearings throughout. no point using the silly plastic things for the sake of a fiver

    SAM_1315_zpsfe2231bd.jpg

    One half of diff / axel

    SAM_1316_zps3dbc8a48.jpg

    Diff Parts. Was surprised to find alloy parts

    SAM_1317_zps64f08c15.jpg

    Though about adding a couple of O rings to tighten it up and so limited slip. There was not enough space but I am sure a couple of grub screws could be used to adjust it. Might get a spare to play with.

    SAM_1318_zps20bb88f3.jpg

    Built ready to attach

    SAM_1319_zps16428f5b.jpg

    Motor in. Not sure what I will run in the end but this will do for now

    SAM_1320_zps255f8693.jpg

    Spot the mistake

    SAM_1321_zpsc7883681.jpg

    Much better :-)

    SAM_1322_zps907439de.jpg

    Opps, missed the shock fitting bit. They are so poor i am amazed they can get away with supplying them, do they just do it to sell Hop-ups?

    SAM_1325_zpsedc640f6.jpg

    Body and wheels trial fitted

    SAM_1323_zps8d6d212d.jpg

    SAM_1324_zpsd65f0393.jpg

    Rear body pin supplied is not correct so I need one to fit the body. No idea on colours or electrics yet.

    Need advice on best and cheapest Hopups now

  7. Maybe I misunderstood. I thought you had received a DT02 and a DT01 instead of two DT01s?

    Yes that's correct.

    DT-01 built now, bar the electrics.

    I need to build the DT-02 sharpish to make sure the parts are all there.

    The mad bull shell fits on the Hornet chassis, sort of, but I think the Hornet will have to go now and I will keep both the DT-01 for the boy and the DT-02 for me and then justify the Mud blaster later.

  8. Well I got a package but not quite what I expected.

    Posted Image

    DT-01 chassis, no body, no wheels as expected.

    A Street Rover chassis, no body, no wheels. Whats that all about then? is a Street Rover? Looks like the camp ist thing on earth. The Internet leaves me to believe this is a stock DT-02 chassis? If that is the case my wheels will ft but not my Mad Bull body.

  9. No, don't buy those! Although sold as being suitable for the Mad Bull, they are not supplied with the right fixings to attach them to the car, neither are said fixings readily available separately. People who have bought those shocks have had to bodge the attachment, and I don't know of anyone who has been completely satisfied with the results.

    I used Ansmann shocks, but Ansmann products are now being sold by Team C and Absima amongst others. These are the Absima-branded versions of the ones I used on mine:

    Front

    http://www.modelsport.co.uk/absima-alu-dampers-75mm-1-10-2-/rc-car-products/369642

    Rear

    http://www.modelsport.co.uk/absima-alu-dampers-95mm-1-10-2-/rc-car-products/369645

    These are sold with screw-through ball ends fitted, and are easily mounted to the car using 3mm screws.

    Many thanks. £20 on a £28 chassis is a killer. Might just have to do one to start with.

    Need a set for my WT-01 as well :-( this hobby will bankrupt me.

  10. I usually find the Ansmann/Absima springs to be a bit on the soft side for most models, but for the DT01 they seem just fine. As for oil, after you have cleaned up the moulding flash and upgraded the shaft seals, you can load them with the oil of your choice. I found Associated 20w worked well for me.

    Would these be the type you are talking about?

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Tamiya-Mad-Bull-F-R-Upgrade-Oil-Shock-Absorbers-Dampers-Set-by-Absima-C-/400746024647?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item5d4e530ec7

    RC shocks seem to cost more than my real car shocks in a lot of cases :ph34r:

  11. I had a lexan brat shell and thought it would be good for a basher. I had an original Mud Blaster and the ABS shell is one of the worst in Tamiya's lineup for absorbing damage, mine was demolished in very short order :(

    My worry about using a thicker plastic is that it will be more brittle and break easier in a big crash, where lexan shells tend to bend instead of crack.

    Will be interested to see your results though :)

    I had not thought about it like that. If I can get a buck done I can test a few shells and see. my driving is that bad I am sure i will got through a few.

  12. Not used one for a while.

    Try veg oil in the body first and then drain,pour in your modeling plaster slowly and try not to get bubbles , leave to dry, (I used to do overnight), drill holes (1mm or less) in any recess so the vacuum can pull it down.

    You want the lexan / plastic as soft, but too much as it will bubble and burn, so a bit of trail and error.

    There's a couple of vids on YouTube with homemade ones.

    Thanks, will get a bag of plaster and see. I like the idea of a pre coloured body and just use mirror sticker on the windows

  13. DT01 chassis, Mad Bull shells and Carson wheel sets? Looks like you have the same plan as I had:

    Posted Image

    As for cheap but fantastic oil shocks, the Ansmann/Absima ones would fit the bill. They are well-machined and very affordable. The stock shaft seals are a bit rubbish, and the pistons aren't always trimmed of their moulding flash, but if you strip them down, trim the flash, then rebuild them with Tamiya shaft seals, they provide many miles of smooth and leak-free running.

    Doh, and I thought I was being a pioneer!

    I might do a full Mad Bull yet but thought the Carson wheels were. Good compromise between the fighter and bull. Might have to call it the Bull Fighter :-)

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