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About jackdaripper

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  1. it did indeed max still working too I havent mashed those two rear holes at all
  2. There is more I am struggling attaching media at the moment I've made few revisions to the slipper pinion and obtained an additional 4 different sized pinions and have got some parts from custom rc fitted with some additions there
  3. Pre ESC with the new yeah racing prop in position All connected up with a slidelogy wire clamp new receiver too
  4. For the terminals I am using gold plated 4mm bullet connectors covered with heat shrink and these xt60 battery connectors which i found which comes witha cap thus removing the need for the heat shrink on those and hide the soldering too if your a bit messy and look nice too . the motor im going to put in is a turnigy track star sensored 9.5t motor brushless of course I like turnigy stuff it seems to be well made and quite durable trying to get a motor in any other colour than red theses days is like pulling hens teeth I am guessing this is because red is considered lucky Chinese culture and that is where most electronic equipment comes from now .
  5. The esc I am using is a barely used Novak gtb3 brushless sensored . I picked it up for 55 pound on eBay I was sad to learn that they are no longer trading. They were the cats meow back in the day I always wanted one but settled for a silver star which I think was made in Luton anyway the previous owner cut off all the connectors so an abundance of soldering was needed. Also I always wanted an alloy esc fan but I found the one I fitted was way too tall for the position chosen on the chassis so it hit the bodyshell but still using the answer rc fan guard only with a low profile hobby wing fan. I removed the Novak sticker by lifting the edge with a scalpel and put it on the replacement fan . The alloy fan was also rated 5v and sounded awful when using a 7.2 2s lipo stick pack I'm not sure if some of these esc fans need to be 12v or if they come in various voltages I know they can have very high rpm but not that noisy I would be be keen to find out I have had a few that seem to howl and other that seem a lot less strained .
  6. Electrics I'm using a feetech 35kg metal cased servo I've not used this brand before i have another that is very similar made by jsx and its been really good quality the waterproofing is not to be trusted but they are well made for the money . it came with an alloy servo horn too but it was massive i found this one on ebay fo799 delivered its a servo saver too and matches the dimensions of the kit supplied one.A couple of alloy washers and some countersunk m3s all mounted on some alloy g made servo mounts.
  7. I have also swapped out all the ball joints as per evo. I recently upgraded? all my egrees ball joints to the alloy avante ones as a result I had the 6mm ones knocking about and thought I would put them to good use. They are different to the top force evolution ones as they have a hexiagon on the bottom and two short of the evo set but i managed to get a couple more from tonys tamiya parts from a mad bull set that had two in them . a new servo and esc and motor are to be replaced with the addition of a yeah racing prop shaft for the ta01/df03 it was 12 quid I was going to strip it so it was silver but it matched the servo and answer rc esc fan guard so i decided to keep it blue and looks alright with the chassis too.
  8. cheers colin I can remember back in the day we used a bit of old rc fuel pipe with some longe nose pliers but it would ocasionally go through the pipe and mark the shaft. the rubber glove works supriseingly well without the need for pliers I have used rubber gloves wrapped round the aluminium chassis posts when I needed to remove them after threadlocking them and they kept spining round hahaha.
  9. The new evo ball joints are plasic on plastic im not sure why perhaps more cost effective less slop I dont know only time will tell .
  10. Removeing the ball connectors with a rubber glove to avoid marking the pistion
  11. Hello all I cannot beleve I started this post five years ago lots of updates to the car so I will crack on I picked up a nice gold weave carbon fibre chassis set from Nick walker (you can find him on facebook and on e bay) Isn't it beautifull . I wraped the underside in 4d carbon fibre just to keep it mint avoid dulling of the gloss from surface contact of the polycarbonate undertray and scratches also decaled the top plate with the mci top force evolution set . With the re release of the topforce evo last year parts have eventually started to apear and I managed to get hold of the re re high cap parts For the evo not just for the re re topforce as I found the gold springs where a bit hard in comparison to the original evolution set and trying to get hold of the evolution spring spacer set was nearly impossible pre re release . I believe the new gray reinforced parts are borrowed from the db-01 but i may be mistaken you will need two of these part trees as they only have the parts for one side of the car on the tree and four of the black spring retainer trees (note you can buy them joined in the middle as a double or seperately as a single tree which i i found to be cheaper ? A quik look at the topforce 2021 manual will allow you assemble these correctly put together they make the topforce suspention alot more low slung and softer I may see if the spring retainers and spacers work on the gold springs tto if i choose a harder set up for another track but for now I will keep it evo .
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