Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

77 Excellent

About jackdaripper

  • Rank

Recent Profile Visitors

1660 profile views
  1. I m also trying to fill the photos lost from older posts that seem to have been lost due the end of tc photos?
  2. Nice and sharp now :) They now include the top deck decals note the addition of the will speed alloy steering assembly
  3. HI smokeylocc420 its tamiya irridecent blue green backed with black . It's sadly a discontinued limited edition colour I managed to source a can from ebay in italy . I am going to keep that bodyshell for the shelf as i can't replace it if need be . But its not all bad news they still do irridecent purple green and irridecent pink gold . I do recomend that you back it in black but i thought id try the purple gold backed with blue and am quite pleased with the results I tryied backing irridecents with silver before now but have found the colours get lost hope this helps but those tamiya irridecent paints are well worth the money I also like fastrax metalics and irridecents but they are not as good as tamiya but lots of paint for the money and cheaper . alsoyou wil not the improvement in mci decals in 3 years credit where credits due sorry about the pic they dont do the colours justice .
  4. Yes it's getting on a bit lol. I keep on meaning to update with later modifications I have made to the car and hopefully will add them soon thanks for reading the build it makes the time and effort ive put into this build worthwhile I hope one day to finish it
  5. Hello all I have received and just fitted another custom part for the top force . It's a brace for the gear box to help keep the lid from poping up under power from the drive train its called a Large gear box brace by custom.rc.part he's a really nice guy and a pleasure to deal with and his parts are not only well made but beautifull too He also makes a brace for the other side and a motor brace which I sadly can't use due to the slipper mod but all equally beautifull. Really pleased with the quality and design I would assume they fit the ta and other cars in this group too. I think they are available in black red blue and silver they are made to order so there may be a waiting time but you can contact him here custom.rc.part@gmail.I had to change the screws for longer ones re useing the nylock nuts but I used m3 hex head blots 18mm on the back and 22mm on the front . The part fitted It blends in nicely with all the other types of silver on the car and a great fit :) The top Under side
  6. Ag is the tamiya ag threadlock gel that you get in the little round pots with the kit hope this helps
  7. The manobet Tamiya Top force front shock support j10and special rear gearbox brace which incorprates the screw that holds the rear shock tower I have admired manobets rc parts for a while now and admired the the top force parts he has made for other people which you may have seen around ( he has a page on facebook) .I asked manobet if it was possible to modifiy his design for his gear box lid brace I sent him a load of drawings and emails he sent me some back .Then I measured the crap out of the rear gearbox moulding then drew up a diagram of the proposed part and sent him it. this was the final proposed drawing. Being the engineering genius that he is said yes I can make that and this is the result I have also got his alloy j10 front tower support which is not only beautifull it fits great . I love his work and he is a really nice guy too a pleasure to work with thanks manobet When I first got the special brace cover I only filed the chamfer on the front of the lid brace to make shure it was down as far as possible and did not hit the curved section of the gearbox caseing if it flexed (the curved bit of plastic that envelopes the motor) . I did find that I should have put the gear box lid screw in first and not the shock tower screw this causes the lid brace to lift off the gear box slightly as the thread pulls the gearbox cover and brace towards the tower . So basically put the gear box lid screw in 1st.(m3 aprox 22mm) Then the screw from the shock tower into the lid brace 2nd( again a m3 aprox 22mm)😊 this prevents any risk of losing thread on the gear box caseing or leaveing a gap between the lid and the special brace so I probably did not need to file the tip you can see the gap I filed for the curve on the left of the lid brace. haveing done this I thought I may as well make a curve on the other end to match the curve of the plastic on the shock tower fixing this was the result.
  8. BEAUTIFULL : wise move leaveing paint work till the warmer months I have seen a few people get destortion marks appear recently due to the reaction of tamiya paints (I assume reacting with a warm shell and getting cold with the paint and generall temprature when spraying? causeing retraction and refraction or expantion and shrinkage? .I tried a tgx prop on mine but found it to bind due to the drop in the level of the front and rear gear boxes perhaps a little more dremmeling was reqired so i ended up putting it back on my egress where it will probly stay as it works fine on there and went back to the steel one with bullet conector covers packed with grease. Good job on the hex king pins I bought two different types and still got too big a gap between the front hub and knuckle so i resorted to going back to the old posi screw type . Any way excellent build love the detail you put in deffinately one of the best builds cant wait to see what the finished article looks like
  9. Camlocks and more mods Happy new year :) a few more mods to the top force lol. I recently bought an old thundershot which had no wheels and while playing around with various wheel combos one of which being the the top force wheel set i thout id try my avante cam locks on it and they fit :) they also match the colour scheme. they are tamiya avante wheels with egress tires and schumacher (tubby) tire inserts i think they look good.I also wanted some universals for the thundershot and as the top force / manta ray stole them from it originally I descided to take them of this and put them on the thundershot . i replaced them with the yeah raceing modern equvalent the df01 and df03 universals they are both the same it was just what was available at the time .they sit well in the hubs of the top force and dont leave the universal joint as exposed as with the thundershot universals . Surpriseingly enough the thunder shot universals are not as exposed when fitted in the thundershot hubs either I found that fitted to the top force they soon became a grass collector as they sat out of the hubs so the result was win win really . I also spotted that rc jaz had got some front and rear alloy gear box covers on ebay which looked alot more like the top force plastic ones than the blue ta01/ta02 gpm ones i had tried to fit in previous posts (they didnt fit ) but the jaz rider /rc jaz ones were at a reasonable price also a friend had reported a cracked front gearbox cover so i thought i would give them a go They come in several different colours annodised im told i would have liked them to be silver but as that was not a option I went for black and im pleased to say they fit well . The front gear box cover has the right kick angle on it and isnt too thick a little thinner actually and the rear one looks simular to the original plastic one and also has 3 threaded holes for adding a mantaray or ta rear bumper so with them fitting and price im quite pleased . i just have to wait untill the spring now so i can get a few laps in :(
  10. The link for the slipper pinion used is here just click on the (slipper pinion) Ok as kontemax has correctly pointed out the 6mm ball would pass through the hole in the shock tower at heavy impact so perhaps this will help by blocking the hole and reinforceing the top bar on the shock tower where the wing is fixed. It is a suspension arm brace that lines up with the wing mount holes I (will have to dig out the card for it to identifiy who makes it etc) with the addition of 12mm screws to compensate the thickness of the plate .
  11. Sorry kontemax I forgot that you probably were the first to do the brace mod on your rw mantaray I have credited you in the build I am yet to test it out but I think that this is still better than nothing on the back. Perhaps it can be made to work a little better.
  12. The slipper cover After completing the slipper pinion mod I wanted to put a cover over the newly drilled gear caseing to prevent the ingress of dust and debris into the gear box. My initial thought was to put a polycarbonate cover fixed to the motor mount screws. But That would involve taking the motor off every time I wanted to tweak the slipper so I offered up an old cigar tube bettween the screw mounts and it was a pretty good fit heres the cigar tube I used SO out with the dremmel dust mask and goggles and I set about cutting the domed end off. I used the diamond wheel to chop it off and flattened it out useing some fine sand paper flat on the table and polished it till it was smooth here is what I ended up with I then cut a small strip of douple sided licence plate adhesive (its strong I have had my plate on my car fixed for 6 years and it has not fallen off yet ) and ran it along the edge of the dome and here was the result . Stuck on and it was more difficult to remove than I thought but it sticks nicely and i doubt it will fall off without giveing it a yank
  13. The pinion slipper Again many thanks to ann3x for the idea for this. The slipper pinion set is a carisma M40b slipper pinion set. I have looked all over the internet for an assembly diagram for this set and all I could find was a badly printed exploded diagram for it which is for a pre assembled car. I had put it together a different way to the final assembly but looking at how the brake pad touched the side of the spur gear while examining the gear meshing (with the top of the gear box off) I had to re assemble it heres my final procedure. There is an indentation on the pinion itself which covers the bottom brake disk shown in this picture (below) I had put it at the top for the top brake disk assembly to stop it moveing around but decided it was better suited to cover the bottom disc from connecting with the spur gear The slipper pinion assembled should look like this the preliminary setting I have used was to tighten it all the way then undo the nut about half a turn so its not to tight and not too lose ideally we want it not to slip when pulling of at full throttle but slip to avoid damage to the spur or gearing With the original pinion you use the tamiya plastic spacer to work out the spaceing on the motor shaft but with this pinion we cannot do this due to the different dimentions so measuring the top position of the pinion is needed a ruler would be better but I just used a bit of paper and a pen high tec lol swaped with the slipper the pinion it should be in the same place Now would have been the ideal time to realine the motor mount holes from a 19t pinion to a 20t pinion but I did not this resulted in drilling a bigger hole than I perhaps needed as it was set at the incorect setting but at least I have plenty of room around the pinion for different sized pinions and settings and for free movement of the slipper spring and washers away from the gear caseing lol I think it is in the 20t position here now. On to the drilling I recomend takeing the gears out of the gear box for this as you dont want to get any crap in the gear box or on the gears it will be necessary to clean out the gear box after to avoid contamination of grease and gears its alot easyer than trying to cheat and block up the spur gear hole with cotton wool as you can see I tried to in the next pic and in the result is visable in some of the background of the above pic You can see the indentation on the gear box caseing above secured in a vice and useing safety gogles and a dust mask (you do not want to breathe this stuff in) I started with a 2mm drill bit on a dremmel. After I drilled the pilot hole I cleared off the swarf (melted plastic) with a grey stone the kind used for sharpening knives that tapers from 10mm to a small round tip and repeated this useing a bigger drill bit each time clearing up as I went with the dremmel stone all the way up to a 10.5 bit attached to a dewalt cordless drill its important you take your time drilling here to avoid cracking the gear box so I recomend makeing the hole bigger in stages .With the hole drilled a quick polish with the stone to clean up the hole and make shure that none of the slipper pinion or the washers is fouling the gear box caseing and youre done . Clean the gear box out of any debris (three times in my case) I did it three times to make sure it was free from dust etc and to avoid it mixing with the gears and grease and cause any premature ware. pop the motor and the gears back in and you can see in the pic above you should have a nice mesh between the pinion and the spur gear if you have not check the motor mount position is correct and the pinion is set at the right height. WIth the gear box lid placed back on I noticed that the bar was fouling the bodyshell post so I cut a slight grove in the bottom so the threadded shaft passed under it without putting a kink in the part where the ball connector connects to the threaded bar.
  • Create New...