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burakol

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About burakol

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  1. So as I was modifying my TBLE02S to make it LiPo friendly based on LaneboysRC tutorial, I also came across to a light controller project Werner has been building as a hobby... To my interest, I wanted to know if anyone here is using a set... Here's a youtube video of the said light controller... I've actually emailed him and he is very responsive. He was kind enough to send me a set to try but if anyone else here has used it before, your feedback is much appreciated.
  2. Most definitely... Amazon 1day is quite essential for certain things... especially when it involves stuff for the hobby... hehe... Small investment that should pay bigger dividends... I know a handful of people prefers to ditch the stock TBLE02s ESC, but I really think it is a good one to be used for casual bashing... having both brush and brushless sensored in itself presents a lot of advantages... more so now that it has a proper LVC for LiPo, it makes it even better...
  3. SUCCESS!!! all three modded ESCs are now working based on the modification by Werner of Laneboysrc. I did short out one solder point to the power rail supplying the microcontroller located in point C9 on the PCB, thus the initial mid I did was a failure... I did use a 22kohm and resistor and my LVC is now set to 6.6v. 3 down, 3 more to go...
  4. I might have shorted it to the exposed test pad... I have to check it again... this time I ordered a proper solder iron and some helping hand station to aid me...
  5. Throw in the GF01 in the choices... wheelies, front/backward rollovers, multi terrain... it is a capable chassis and tough... but with the short wheelbase, it is prone to tipping over during highspeed and sudden change of direction... but i dont see that much of a problem but more of a teaching factor...
  6. Little update... I performed the mod on 3 TBLE02s ESCs... As I tested all three, I am bummed that only 1 out of the three worked... I quadrupled check that the LVC on the ESC is enabled but the other two is still not cutting off at the intended voltage of 6.6V. I am using a Radiolink RC6 with the R7FG RX with the built in telemetry feature so I was able to see the actual voltage as it runs... There is no visible shorts or any wires touching any other part... The only reason I can think of is maybe I am burning the resistor with my soldering iron? I am using a cheapo soldering iron and I wonder if that is causing the resistor to burn if that is even a possibility... On hindsight, at least all three ESCs still functions and I did not brick any of them...
  7. Thingiverse... I just had to rescale it for a good fit...
  8. Thanks for the update. I'm still waiting for my 22kohm resistor to come in. Hopefully it will be a success on my part... I have about 5 esc to mod if I am successful on the first one.. I'm sure having a good soldering iron will make a huge difference.
  9. I 3d printed the part and it held fine after a few minutes of run... I dont expect it to be as durable as the stock part but it would do for now... plus I can always 3d print a bunch if needed... I would probably upgrade the steering system as well when the time comes...
  10. I never thought about it... not sure (didnt know)if this hitec servo is 24 spline since the kit supplied servo part went in without issues, but i will double check it i.counted multiple times and it is 25... the tamiya/futaba servo horn goes it without problems... fwiw im using a hitec standard servo hs303. I could not find any literature about it online that specified the spline count... although most of the info i found lists hitec servo as having 24 spline, some hitec servos have 25 splines...
  11. Thanks for the offer, but unfortunately I'm in the US... i might just have to bite the bullet and buy a parts tree.. at least I would have some spares at my disposal should another part fail within the same sprue... or 3d print one but it might not last a day... It was on a standard silver can before but I am in the process of changing most of the cars into brushless for electrical efficiency... I might have to dial down the settings on the throttle a little more to slow it further... problem is if I go back to the silver can, then I wont get the satisfaction I'm looking for when it's my turn to drive... 😜
  12. Correct... durability is the main priority... so I guess the plastics offer more impact resistance since they flex more... Yeah, basically I'm just using an older hitec servo for it... I guess for its purpose, buying a stock servo saver makes more sense in this case... I was just wondering why it failed so early... might be because of the head on collision it had a few weeks ago which damaged the tub and front diff case...
  13. This is probably the third time something in my ReRe Manta Ray broke... First was the front hubs, second were the front diff case and tub chassis, and now, the third to break is the servo saver part c3. This is my son's car and I am trying to take advantage of every moment he asks me to drive it... but it is disappointing in a sense that each time he uses it, something breaks.... while I recently changed it to a 17.5t brushless motor, I have dialed down the EPA and D/R on the throttle channel to limit his speed to 50% on a NiMh battery... while he likes to grip the throttle, I know he is also very mindful of trying to avoid any massive hits or erratic driving... Anyhow, I don't think i can just buy the part by itself so I need to get a whole parts tree (100005377), but I am also thinking of what hopup part can I use? I see a lot of Tamiya hi torque servo saver but I am not quite sure if it will fit the Manta Ray... So far I've only done a very basic upgrade to this car... bearings, alum motor mount, Hardened prop shaft and Plastic idler gear. Since the servo saver broke and I cannot just buy that one specific piece, I wanted to know if there is another option or upgrade I can use for this part? On the same account, what other plastic parts should I consider changing to a different material? I'd appreciate your input (and reference to a part number/online link). Thank you.
  14. Just take it slow and make sure your soldering iron's tip is hot and clean... once you take the conformal coating off the pcb the melted lead should easily stick to it... it could have been a lot easier if I had a thinner gauge wire to use but I had none laying around...
  15. Not quite the collection but I think I am running out of space... and time... here are some of my built and unbuilt cars...
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