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About burakol

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  1. I may have an A13. I have to dig in to the parts bin. I am based in the US though...
  2. burakol


    Sorry, I have not been able to update this thread... after a week or so, I am still building the Dynahead. I re-sprayed a new paint using the PS-63 gunmetal color. Re-did the rear bed cage and roof rack. I also started installing LED lights... So here is the new roof rack and bed cage. I thought the first printed part was a little big, so I scaled it down a bit. Since I thought paying $25 for the Tamiya Hop-up front skid plate, I wanted to see if I can design my own. For this design, I simply used the front bumper mounting hole. Not sure if I should have shortened the length but I have to see if the skid guard will interfere when used as a light crawler. Here are some of the LED lights I've been working on for the past 3 days... I would say that the light buckets I made were spot on...The problem is in my cutting skills... I've only wired the left side so far... Here's a photo of the low-beam as well as the park lights underneath... the idea is to actually light up the lower section with 6 LED bulbs acting as the park lights, and the outermost bulb will also be used as the turn signals... Here we have the hi-beams on one side... And for the rear, I opted not to cut the plastic like what I did on the front... I didn't want to weaken the plastic shell like what happened to the front... I did punch 4 holes in the middle so I can put a third brake/rear fog lights and reverse lights. I tried my best to make the wiring neat and tidy, but obviously there's a lot more room for improvement. I'm not really proud on the outcome of how I routed the wires, but hey, this is my first time doing this... as you can see, I tried to reinforce the front shell with some Drywall tape and silicone. It does seem to work ok, but the problem is, the hotglue I used to attache the light bucket/box won't stick as well compared to the areas without the silicone... And here is the brain for all these light functions... Yes, I could have opted to buy those ready made LED kits to avoid the need for wiring my own bulbs, but their functionality is limited. For almost the same cost (less the cost of the LED bulbs and wires), using the light controller developed by Lane Boys RC (the same guy who found the LiPo mod for the TBLE-02S), is way better and more realistic. If you have not seen how his light controller works, you should watch the video below. What's best is that he also shared all that is needed in case you wanted to create your own light controller from scratch... although I am not as skilled in programming and creating microchips, etc. as others here, it is fortunate that Werner (Lane Boys RC) has some pre-made light controllers that he was able to send me for about $20USD shipped from his home in Singapore... I'm hoping that by this weekend, I have completed wiring all the lights, including the light bar on the roof rack so I can spray the inside shell with some Black Plastidip to at least hide the hideous wiring and cover the light bleed... then after, I have to attached the bed cage and put decals on...
  3. Decided to pass... will try to get some Novafox when i get some extra funds in my pocket..
  4. It also looks like it is missing the bumper... what do you make of the dampers? Are those stock? I'd probably shelling off another $100 or so to complete restoration....
  5. It's missing the body shell, will probably need new sets of tires front and back... seller wants $40 as is... do you guys see any other potential missing pieces on the front nose? I havent owned a Fox/Novafox...
  6. Ok, I will try shoogoo then if all my other options fail... thinkijg of using what i currently have so far: hot glue, trusty white school glue, a crafters glue, and silicone caulk.
  7. Is shoe goo safe for polycarb paint? Will it not eat it away?
  8. I'm trying to glue some 3d printed parts/light bucket inside a painted PC shell... I have a 9001 glue adhesive but it reacts to the paint. What do you guys suggest on using?
  9. I’d be willing to help out post it your way. Just lmk.
  10. US $21.81 40% Off | GARTPOT Lipo Battery 4000mAh 7.4V 50C Battery lipo 2S RC Lipo 7.4v Battery with Deans T Plug for RC Truck RC Car Traxxas Slash https://a.aliexpress.com/_mPN6wKd not affiliated whatsoever but i do have 4 of these and works for my purpose. I dont race at all but the shape is bear identical to a rounded nimh
  11. burakol


    So I got bored with the dull, primer like looking paint and decided to strip it off... Not really ideal and took me one weekend to complete... I did use some nitro fuel and it worked wonders paired with a lot of manual labor... I just ordered some Tamiya PS-63 (box art color)... I've also come up with some ideas on how to mount the LEDs that I plan on installing... in the process of cutting the light holes, I inadvertently damaged the front of the shell, so I need to be reinforcing that as well as I progress... I also tried to design a simple rear bed cage... the idea is to mount a spare tire to add a little more rear weight... hopefully it will not be too top heavy and end up toppling over when I run out... but we'll see... Since incurring damage on the front shell when I cut a hole, I decided not to cut out the plastic in the rears and maybe just use it as the "lens" for the rear LED lights... I modified the front light bucket a bit so the idea is to just glue this in place on the inside shell... As of the moment, I am trying to figure out how to wire the LEDs and how to program the light controller that I got from LaneBoys RC. Next, once the paint comes in, I will go ahead and spray the body with the new color and affix the light buckets and do the lights... then I can probably put on the stickers and call it done...
  12. burakol


    Got to do some tinkering today... Trying to do some DIY light bar... The light bucket was printed using an SLA printer. Design was taken from Thingiverse and was rescaled. I used some wrapping foil as light reflectors which was glued inside. Due to the round shape, I had to cut some slits on foil so it will curve once I press it in the light bucket. For the lens cover, I was originally planning on using my FDM printer to print some clear lens but I remembered I have a stack of transparent book covers I used when I 3d printed face shields... Traced the shape of the light bucket and was cut to just about the size of the edge... After completing all four lights, it was test mounted... The four LEDs are nothing but a generic 5mm LEDs. In order for it not to burn out, I used 2 82ohm resistors wired in parallel given me a final value of 41ohm. The LEDs are then wired in parallel and the resistor on one end given me a voltage of about 2.8-3v across each light. Once my FDM printer is back in action, I will probably print a rear bed cage next and design a front bumper/skid plate... then create more light buckets for the front and rear set of lights...
  13. burakol


    Tested my new classroom SLA printer today... I found a roof rack from thingiverse that I remixed to size the roof cab of the Dynahead. I may to tweak it some more but my wife said it doesnt look off-scale so it might do for now... also, one light bucket needs to be reprinted.. took about 7hrs to print. I had to break it into halves in order to fit in the print bed... next, i have to design a mount for it... also printed some tools and stuff that i found... it is supposed to be 1/10 scale but it looks a bit bigger... i may have to redo it next week...
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