burakol

Aren't you US based? Tamiya USA should have the part tree available for $10 plus shipping.

just a set of acrylic paint i have in my classroom; no name brand... it looks like it is adhering ok. I just had to put multple coats and let it air dry. I applied the paint on the underside of the shell where it will be less prone to surface scratching.. I'l' post a photo when I'm done.

Thanks. I will try to paint my Wild One tomorrow and see how it goes. Ive decided to just use a regular acrylic paint without any type of prepainting whatsoever… i kust need to make sure surface is clean before i start brushing the paint. I recognize that it will take a few coats to fully cover the polycarb shell.

Here's what my lights look on my Dynahead build. I bought the light controller from LaneBoys RC but I had to solder all the light and do the wiring myself. The Dynahead did not come with any light buckets whatsoever, so I had to make my own through 3d printing. I used ShoeGoo to attach the printed parts to the body.

Middle School Special Education Teacher.

So the same is true for the front wheels too? Should I just go ahead and order a pair then?

I'm scouring the internet right now to get the ReRe spacer/adapter. Hopefully Tamiya USA has it in stock. I'd like to keep the original plastic if I could for keepsake. If not, then I will just have to shave it down since it is unlikely that I will be buying/finding a first release wheel anyway. Thank you for checking!

I got a response from Tony, and he explained to me that the earlier release of the Wild One had a weak point on the wheel where it was prone to cracking in the center exactly like what happened to my original wheel. In response, Tamiya redesigned the wheel to have the round plastic surround to reinforce from impact. By doing so, Tamiya also released a new design on the succeeding batches of Wild Ones using a smaller diameter wheel mount. Question now is, knowing that I have a first batch Wild One, do I want to sand off the original wheel mount, or do I shave off the round ring on the wheel but at the risk of weaking the wheel? Tony said it would take him 4 weeks to get the smaller wheel mount from Japan as he is waiting for some re-stocks. OR, just buy some hex adapters for now and use different wheels... too hard to decide!

Absolutely! Didn't thought about that! I can just run it on slow speed while I hold a sand paper or whatever abrasive I have and reduce it that way... thanks!!! However, I need to double check the clearance before I do that. Last thing I want is to end up ruining more part. Was this a known variance? The part number seems to be the same for both the OG and ReRe. Even Tony's Tamiya has it listed for both fitment.

Yup... a handful of TC members are using it... the battery has been discussed here in the forums as well. Sometimes Amazon will not have it in stock so some orders it from AliEx. I myself own four of those and has been taking a nice balanced charge each time.

I didn't realize that the wheels from the ReRe Wild One is designed slightly different. I have an original kit 58050 which I, unfortunately, broke the rear original wheel. In excitement to get it fixed, I bought a replacement wheel from Tony's Tamiya as it was listed as part for both 58050 and 58525. I got them today but sadly, it does not fit. The wheel is stamped as Wild One Rear, signifying that it is indeed for a Wild One car, and it also has a 58050 stamp on the plastic tree, but oddly, it does not work. There is a round plastic surrounding the 4 pins that goes in the wheel adapter making it not flushed. I can probably sand it down but that's more work...

I do have both gyro and non-gryo Rx. You are correct, the R4F is tiny since it is not enclosed in a case (wrapped in plastic). So if you are planning on putting it in something that might get wet, it will not be ideal; unless you want to fabircate your own enclosure. The R4F also does not have gyro. The Rx's that have Gyro for Radiolink is the one with the "G" on their recievers (R7FG, R6FG, R4FG)... I have 3 Rx with the gyro feature and honestly, I don't use them at all... Gyro is really useful for Drifting, which I don't have a proper car for... Some aybe uses it for racing, but again, I don't race... If you are looking for a pistol tyle radio gear for your kid, you may want to look into the Turbo Racing 91803G They sell it all over online shops and I have two of those for my kids. I got mine from a chinese online shop. What I like about it is the size and the ability to adjust EPA and D/R to tame the RC when my kids are using it...

I have the Radiolink RC6GS which is the 6channle version of the RC4GS. I also have the older RC4G (the very first version) and I still use it on my son's Manta Ray. So far it has served me well for what I use it for. I am not a racer and just use it for casual bashing. I really like the features, and for the price, you actually get a lot. The only thing that maybe isn't too appealing is the form factor/design. It looks outdated compared to newer radio gear, but it still feels comfortable on my hand. If there's anything I want, it is for it to have a setting specific for crawling like a crab steer.

The voltage readings for me is always spot on at 3.8v/cell. Its the capacity left that is spotty. So long as the consensus is about relying on the voltage reading, then I say id feel ok

That's the question, how do we know that the battery is at 50% capacity? Is it safe to assume that as long as the battery is at 3.8v/cell then it is at 50%? I ask because I don't think this battery checker is accurate.

I've been using Lipo for more than a year now and I make sure I have them at storage charge when not in use. Anyhow, I have this 5in1 battery checker that supposedly checks for voltage per cell, capacity in percentage, etc. When I do my battery checks for maintenance, I do notice that the battery checker is consistently reading the voltage at 3.8v, but the capacity ranges from 38-50%. I know the recommended storage voltage should be between 3.6-3.8v, but does the capacity left in the battery matter? Also, I am not sure how accurate this battery checker is in terms of measuring actual left capacity since that is difficult to calculate...

Hi, thanks for the response. The cheaper the better IMHO. I don't want to low ball or offend but maybe no more than $25 shipped to 20176? If not, no worries. I can use one of my Rx in hand... I'm just being lazy right now in doing some tinkering...

I've been trying to find videos on YT hoping someone posted a DIY/how to for this... I know I have to sand off the surface rust, then prime and paint, but in doing so, I might not get the same surface texture/finish as the original one... Also, I am not sure what specific color matches it...

similar... it says two members are active... me and the other member... @DeadMeat1966 i doubt he'll go back to 3 pages worth of messages to delete/replace them with dots...

Not sure what the heck is going on but the PM messages in my inbox from another TC member is just showing three dots (...) There's about 3 pages worth of messgae exchanges between me and the otehr member, but all are now showing as three dots (...) it is only happening on this one particualr message exchange from this member,... the rest of my PM are showing ok... any clue?

Any clue of what will the closest color match would be?

I have this old, beat up looking Technigold and Technipower motor that run just fine, but the motor case looks old, worn, and not pleasant looking… i was wondering if anyone have any tips or ways it can he brought back up to its catchy looks? Thanks.

TBLE02S can be modified to have a LiPO cutoff. I for one was able to successfully mod the ESC. A rather simple process of soldering a resistor on to the board... If you have the right tools and basic knowledge of soldering, you should be fine... This has been posted/discussed several times but to give you a rundown on how it goes, look at the link: http://laneboysrc.blogspot.com/2015/08/tamiya-tble-02s-mod-for-lipo-cut-off.html The torque tuned provides ample performance for the GF chassis; plenty to wheely around and front flips... I own one and ran the Torque Tuned for a while until I decided to use lower turn motor and widen suspension arms...

I have a vintage Wild One that needs to be painted. If I remember, my Terra Scorcher also had a molded figure from polycarbonate shell and I may have used an acrylic pen for it which I painted on the outside... I guess I have to look at it again and see if it held fine... however this time, I do plan on using a brush and actual acrylic paint...

I know i should be using a PC paint but will an acrylic paint work, or will it just flake off??