grafster

For windows you could try Revell Contacta Clear - I've not tried it on tamiya stuff, just Revell static models though. It comes with a brush too rather than a needle. http://www.emodels.co.uk/revell-contacta-clear-glue-39609.html

Delivery of paint from Fusion for my tundra project. I wasn't expecting the TS-83 Metallic silver to be so problematic though - there's a label on it that says it needs a TS-14 black undercoat and shouldn't be clear coated. Wondering about rethinking my paint scheme as I'm still pretty much a beginner at painting body shells, and was planning to clear coat the shell.

If you email them with your Tamiya Club membership details, they'll send you back a discount code that you can enter on the website.

Thanks. In some pictures it seems to have a bluish tinge to it, so I was wondering if it was TS55, but it is really hard to tell, as you say. The graphics are decals but the bottom stripe isn't. It seems weird that they give you the decals but not the colours.

Apologies for this extremely anal question. Does anyone know which TS paint colours are used for painting the truck in the colour scheme shown on the side of the box? I can't seem to find it mentioned anywhere in the manual. Thanks

80mm according to this:- http://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-50520-80mm87mm94mm-short-shock-unit-p-8386.html?cPath=389_390

Finished the electric conversion on my Losi LST2. Never got on with nitro so it's been sat in the shed for years since I got it cheap on eBay. Pretty much finished anyway, I still want to waterproof the receiver somehow and it only seems to be front wheel drive at the moment. I'm wondering if the former owner did it intentionally, or botched the forward only conversion, but I have a Jiffy bag full of gears that I may need to shove back in the transmission somewhere, but that's a job for another day. It runs for now, at least (and at a reasonable pace after I put a second 2S lipo in it).. . (lunchbox included for scale, and to make up for the non-Tamiya content)

If you fancy a pistol grip one, you can get a Radiolink RC3S with 2 receivers for around £30 from the Far East. It has 4 channels and you can set up the extras to either go in the same or the opposite direction as channel 1.

What's the best tool for doing E-rings? I've come across this one, but it seems a bit pricey:- http://www.duratrax.com/accessories/tools/dtxr1107.html although it may be worth it as I've got a High-Lift to build, which seems to have a bunch of them.

Yayy - custom PCBs for controlling LED lights with an arduino Boo - customs bill (for high lift from Banzai)

Took my stampede out for a bash at a new spot I've found about 10 mins from where I live. Found out that the motor isn't as waterproof as they say (although it may be coincidental that it failed in a puddle). I've taken the motor out and rinsed the mud out and leaving it to dry with my fingers crossed. If not, it might be a good excuse for an upgrade from the stock motor

It's not working for me either, on Mac OS X (10.10.2) and the latest Java.

Wheel hexes and body mounts for my TT-01E. But I've messed up - the body mounts are for a TT-01 and I guess they're different . Luckily they were only £1.27 (from asiatees).

Yes, it's not easy to switch between steering front and rear the same or reversed. The way you set it up, you go in to "PMIX" on the transmitter. And set the options up something like this:- MST = Master (i.e. the channel you're reading from) in this case ST (steering). SLV = Slave, I.e. the channel on the receiver to send the output to. You'd use either channel 3 or 4 for your rear steering servo. MXMD = Mix, just seems to to turn mixing on or off (the options are Mix or Off). Then Left and Right are a range between -100 and +100. You'd use +100 for "Crab" steering and -100 to have the steering reversed front and back. The only drawback is you have to hold down the + button for about 40 seconds to get from -100 to +100. And you'd have to do that for Left and Right. However, the transmitter has a 10 model memory, so you can just set the PMIX up one way on one "model" and the other way on a different model. It should then only take 5-10 seconds to switch between models. You'd only need to set this up once, and it would all be remembered in the transmitter memory. Regarding 3 speed gear changes, there is a knob on the side of the transmitter that can be mapped to channel 3 or 4, but it's continuous, not a 3 position switch. Which I think would work, but is not ideal (I'll find out at some point as I ordered a High Lift from Banzai Hobby on Thursday ). You can adjust the end points, so the far ends would be easy, but finding the middle gear might be hit or miss, without looking closely at where the knob is. The workaround I might end up with is there is also a push button that can map to channel 3 or 4. You can set that up to either "toggle" when you press it, or to work only when you hold it. So I'd set it up as a toggle and only use 2 out of the 3 gears. (you could fiddle with end point adjustment to choose which 2).

If you're after a cheap option, the radiolink RC3S (transmitter) / R4EH-H (Receiver) can do this. The PMIX option lets you put the link the steering (either the same or reversed) to either channel 3 or 4 on the receiver. There's not a single switch to switch between the 2 though - the quickest way to switch would be to set up 2 different models in the model memory on the transmitter and switch between them, which is a few button presses.

Motor mount and battery tray for my next project - converting my old Losi LST-2 to brushless. I never really got on with nitro so hoping to breathe some new life into it, although I really don't know what I'm doing with the conversion. Would've preferred to get the official losi kit, but it's been discontinued so I'm going to have to go the DIY route.

Got the "realistic" lights working on my TT-01E. I used an arduino and some software I found on another forum, and it's got working indicators, break lights, and the lights are controllable from the transmitter..

Trimmed, masked, and started painting an Audi R8 body shell for my TT-01E. Also did some tinkering with the code for the "Open source lights" that I'm working on adding to a different body shell. (Not sure what the rules are on linking to other forums, but there's so one who's come up with some great realistic lights for rc cars using arduino)

If you try it, make sure you wire them in parallel (i.e. splice the new wires onto the +ive and -ive wires) as otherwise (in series) you'd get 1/2 the brightness. You may still get reduced brightness though, what output the socket in the MFC produces.

Finished the (stock) build of my TT-01 E. Although I'm planning to add some more lights to it, I finished painting the spoiler today. And, after a lot of cursing, I managed to attach it and the wing mirrors to the body shell. I'm quite pleased with how the paint job came out - it's my first go at doing a lexan body (though I did a lunch box a couple of years ago). The paint scheme was inspired by something I found on the PC game Assetto Corsa, although I simplified it a bit! I used "Low Tack" vinyl for masking the curves, but it didn't work out that well as it left a lot of residue behind that I ended up having to remove with masking tape. I'm a bit nervous of scoring the body using liquid mask though, so this seemed like a safer (and cheaper) solution.

Just finished sticking all the stickers on last night. Went with a non-stock paint scheme inspired by something I found on Asseto Corsa (PC racing game). Still need to do the spoiler, wing mirrors, light buckets and wire up the lights. I'm planning on putting indicators in that can be controlled by the transmitter. Quite pleased with the paint job considering this is the first lexan body I've done (though I did a Lunchbox a couple years ago). I used some A4 sheets of "low tack" vinyl I got from eBay to do the red stripe because I've not use liquid mask before and was scared of scoring the body. The vinyl left quite a lot of residue unfortunately, that I ended up using masking tape to remove. Coincidentally an Audi R8 body I'd ordered from Japan arrive this morning, but I think I'll hold off on that one for a while!