Jump to content

ncpantherfan71

Members
  • Content Count

    187
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by ncpantherfan71

  1. Absolutely gorgeous! Do you have any pic of other paint jobs you could post?
  2. I have one bound up to my dx3r and it seems to work fine. The dx5r is a sweet radio, I have a dx6r I use with my on road race kits. It is a highly advanced TX. Don't forget the Traxxas TX, when equipped with the Bluetooth module and the app it has several settings to adjust and multiple model memory. All the settings are saved on your smart device. Rx can be picked up pretty easy all over eBay.
  3. Post man didn't bring it, I picked it up before I left work today. I decided to do a reverse Shelby GT350 Hertz paint job, gold with black stripes.
  4. Both Dean's and ec3 are much better than Tamiya plugs. I like Dean's because they are a little smaller. Some people think the ec3 are easier to solder because they are like bullets but I don't have a hard time with Dean's most of the time. Just use whatever you like best.
  5. I wish we had a class like the 13.5. We have a class called usvta, 25.5 Binky spec tires and old American muscle car bodies. I picked up a used evo6 to replace my 417 when I get the time to go. Like you, my F1 is a 102 but I do use Tekin escs and Trinity motors. The only class I keep up with the latest and greatest is mini, and that's because it's my favorite, but no mini class now....
  6. The bullets are a neat idea and it does give easier mounting options than the tabs at times. I really wanted them to perform. Maybe I was one of the unlucky ones and I got a couple duds. I still use the last esc and motor, but they are not in my race cars. I guess I really got turned off when they didn't bother to answer my email. With stock blinky racing, like mini, I have the motor timing cranked up to 45-50 degrees and speed passion motors require separate end bells to adjust more than 10 deg. with the version I had, and I was always way down on power. I don't know how serious your group is, but here I am running against guys with hand built $150-$200 motors and $800-900 awsomatix touring cars. Even with me using Tekin esc and off the shelf Trinity motors I still don't have the horsepower.
  7. Does the light quit blinking and go solid? If so, it is bound and should work.
  8. My advice is to not take them apart, that way you can not be accused of screwing them up just return and get what you paid for. Even the wrong endbell isn't acceptable for a new out of package motor. Sounds like it was assembled with whatever spare parts they had laying around. Unfortunately that has been my experience with speed passion gear, kind of hit an miss. I had to replace an esc after about a month at the track because it decided to let the magic smoke out, and this was in a 21.5 mini Cooper, absolutely no stress on it. I sent email to speed passion and never got a reply. Electronics is an area you get what you pay for. In my race cars all I run is Tekin now. Yes it is expensive but the customer support is outstanding. I had a 2 day conversation through email with the president. How many other companies would do that with someone who is just an average hobbiest. Just to FYI, I am not in any way sponsored. My actual racing skills are limited, I'm the rolling chicane at the carpet track.
  9. There are always a couple white with blue stripes so I tend to not do that one. When I was in Orlando I rented one of the 06 Shelby gt-h mustangs for a day. It was pretty quick and fun to drive but they had traction control locked on, so you couldn't do burnouts and smoke the tires bald. 😞 The black would be too hard to see, but maybe in reverse, gold with black stripes or should I just use my standard yellow and black? Easy to see but I kind of wanted something different.
  10. Cut out the protoform mustang body and started fitting on my Exotek evo6. I need to figure out a paint color, anyone have any suggestions? I would love to do it dark green like the bullet mustang. I know, not original, but I do like it. Problem with a dark color is we race on black carpet and I'm afraid the dark green will disappear.
  11. Check out this thread. http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=40528
  12. Was background of the rig photoshoped?
  13. Wow, you guys take taking pics as serious as building the cars! I still have my 35mm slr, but never replaced it with a digital one. Kids are almost grown and I primarily used it to take pics of my oldest daughter when competing in Gymnastics.
  14. Where do you place your light to light the area without glare off lexan bodies? All I have is a basic cell phone camera and I would like to find a way to better illuminate my pics.
  15. Take a look at this kit, it might be close to what you are looking for. Other versions are still available I think. http://www.rcmart.com/hobby-25598-gambado-naked-rcmart-limited-cfrp-mini-p-63139.html
  16. Looking at Google pics, there is no way it will fit the mini rs4. It's hard to tell about the switch.
  17. Do you know what kit that body was originally designed to fit?
  18. No I am pretty sure it will not fit. The hood is lower than the top of the front wheel wells, I think it will hit the steering linkages and front body mounts. I also also think the rear mounts are too high for that body.
  19. Here is my TRF 102, I airbrushed most of it in the chrome, but the F1 bodies do not flex much at all. The area where it flexes around the body posts were done in pactra water based airbrush.
  20. I don't know much about HPI, I think the switch can be set to 210 also and it might be easier to find. I don't know. On a side note, if that is the spazstix chrome, it has a tendency to flake off when used as a primary color over large areas. I painted a touring car body where the entire front end had the chrome back to flames all in chrome. It was georgous, but the first time it flexes the chrome cracked and started to flake. The instructions also call for a black water based backer to protect it because it scratches easy. If used on the outside, like your wheels it also needs a clear coat to protect it.
  21. If that's the body, it's too low for all the m chassis cars. It has bulges over the tires and the hood goes pretty low.
  22. Yes the 01 doesn't have a tall front. This is the only naked pic I have in my account. It has 55d tires and it isn't too much higher than them. Tell me how you would like me to take measurements and I will get them for you off the 01 and 06 sometime today. The 05 tower is still fairly high. I had to "massage" the blitz body to get it low enough on it by heating and forming bumps in the hood and it still sat on the shock tower. I haven't opened the 02, and don't know when I will get around to building it. I picked up my novafox right before it was discontinued the first time and finished it probably a month or two before the re release was announced. Here is a front pic of the 07 on 60d tires.
  23. Had a crappy few weeks and I finally dug stuff out of the trunk of my car and back seat of my truck, some of which has been there for almost a month. EBay m02, now just need a m04 to complete the set. Protoforms VTA tires, front and rear and mustang body to put on my Exotek evo6 I use in the VTA class. Picture so you can see what it looks like. And finally, the Traxxas stampede Bigfoot body set to use as a shelf body just because I have a thing for old Ford trucks.
  24. After a really bad few weeks I took a little time and painted the Bigfoot body for my stampede. I know it isn't Tamiya, but it is a pretty cool body with hard plastic chrome grill, bumpers and roll bars, so kind of Tamiya like. I just need to decide if I want to go full Bigfoot or keep it as a regular Ford truck.
×
×
  • Create New...