ncpantherfan71

Looks like it is compatible with the flysky stuff. A flysky rx usually costs $8-$10 US. Wouldn't bee too expensive to try and see.

Did you ever get an answer to this? I can take measure mine tonight and take a pic if you want.

Here is the m07 If you want to see anything special, let me know. I ended up taking 30 pics. Im not going to post them all here....

Here is the M06, I hope you can see from the pics how far the motor sticks out in the back.

OK got imgur to work. Left to right is M01, M03, M05, M05v2, M07

Rcmart carries blitz body's. I have tried and they are good quality. Used one the last season I raced and it held up pretty well.

Next time you drive try to see if it is the front tires rolling over and causing it to almost flip up over the outside front tire or if it is rolling over both front and rear tires on the outside. If it's flipping on the front, try the kit tires on the front and see if that helps. If it does, try gluing the sidewalls of the S grips and put those on the front and see how it reacts.

Yes they all will need inserts. I have used the hard and regular Tamiya inserts and really didn't see a huge change in how it drove. If I remember right the S grips are softer than m grips and the m grips are softer than the kit tires. Tire sauce will really depend on what surface you are on, kind of hard to give you annanswer there. All I ever did to new tires is remove the mold seam and go, and sometimes I just left it and let it wear off. I mainly ran on carpet and low traction was never a problem. However too much was the norm, if the outside edges were not glued it would roll in almost every corner unless you slowed way down.

Yes they are evolutions, with odd numbers front and even numbers rear wheel drive. First was m01/m02 then m03/m04 now this is when it get a little different, there is a m05 and a m05 v2. The v2 allowes use of a square lipo, motor is a little more centered, and it has droop screws. The battery is mounted across the chassis sideways in all the front wheel drive chassis. The m06 also allows square lipos mounted length ways down the center of the chassis, but does not have droop screws. The motor is hanging off the very rear of the chassis and it can cause a little pendulum effect in corners. This also limits what bodies fit because it hangs so far out. The m07 has just been released and it is totally different from all previous m chassis. As of right now there isn't a m08. The front wheel drive cars are typically easier to drive, the front wheels will "pull" the car through the corners and out, almost point and shoot. The downside to that is when on the throttle hard the weight transfer will shift to the rear and you can get alot of wheel spin. The m05 also has a little larger setup window, if you are off a little it can still be driven pretty quick. The 06 can be faster IF you can drive it fast. The setup window is alot smaller. Most of the time it's good or very bad, nothing in the middle. It likes to snap around pretty quick when the rear breaks loose and is almost impossible to catch once it decides to go. Breaking can be a little sketchy as with all rwd cars, but where the 06 really excels is it accelerates so much faster but if you hit it too hard when exiting the turns it can get a little squirrely. I tried racing the 06 but was slower than with the 05. I didn't have the throttle control for a rwd. Most of this is on a preped track, treated asphalt and carpet. If you are just playing in parking lots and so forth, some of what I said will really not apply. I'm sure you wouldn't care about the setup window. If you want to send me a pm with your email I can send pics of the m05, m05v2, m06 and m07 so you can see the difference between. Or someone can tell me the best photo share site and I will post them here tomorrow afternoon.

That's another great thing about the slash. It can be set many different ways, on road, put bigger tires and it becomes a mt, keep it a short course truck. There is a guy on YouTube with a highly modded slash that did over 160mph.

If it must be 4wd, you have limited choices. I can not recommend the Hellion. I worked at Hobby Town a while and was not impressed. Soft aluminum chassis plate, it would taco on any significant impact. To change it was a huge pita! Must have been 20-25 Phillips screws on the bottom. Plus only place to get parts is Hobby Town in the US. I don't know who carries it in the UK. Th slash 4x4 is already brushless, and a very good basher. There are a couple week spots, the bearing that keeps the slipper aligned is too small for the load. When it fails it can take a couple other parts out because it gets so hot and the plastic melts. There is an upgrade mount from hot racing which uses an oversized bearing and traxxas has an aluminum part the bearing fits into. This pretty much fixes the biggest fault. Now if you intend to install an 8th scale power system and run it on 4-8 cell lipo you will destroy the drive shafts in one or two runs. Mip offers a set of heavy duty drive shafts that will last, but they are a little pricey. If you keep the power system within reason, stock shafts do OK, but do wear. Very hard head on impacts can bend the center drive shaft when the chassis flexes. Cheap part and pretty easy to replace, about 6 screws if I remember right. I don't know much about the ecx 4wd, but the 2wd drive trucks are designed for the beginner. Tough as heck, but performance is limited because the plastic are sooooo soft and servo saver is set to marshmallow strength. I don't know parts support for ecx in UK, but I don't stock 4wd parts at my shop, only 2wd. If you are willing to look at second hand, don't over look the Losi or TLR scte and it's "offspring". Chassis has been around for ever, the top performing 4wd short course for several years. Very durable and can be hopped up to almost bullet proof status. Parts support in US is very good for this chassis, but I don't know about the UK. My order for a pure basset would be Slash 4x4 Losi/TLR SCTE ECX, if you can get parts I would rather drive a cardboard box than the Hellion. I currently own a slash 4wd, TLR SCTE, and an ECX 2wd truck. I have shared my personal experience and what I see at the hobby shop where I work. Your experience may be different.

The low ride pumpkin uses a hard midnight pumpkin body with several extra holes. You are provided "stickers" to cover them, but if you chose a color other than black you will have to fill them. Also, with all the m chassis cars, your body choices are a little limited. They also tend to push or under steer in the corners and when it breaks rear traction it tends to snap around. At least that is how it seems for me when I drive it. If you choose a standard 190mm touring car, such as ta07 or tt01 02 you will have a many bodies at your disposal but most are lexan. 4wd touring cars seem to drive a more neutral and the higher end kits can be adjusted to drive however you want. I would recommend the ta07 as a mid level kit. I have personal experience with the tt01, ta05, ta06, 417, evo6, m05, m06, and just built the m07 but haven't made it to the track yet. I sold the ta06, and still run the ta05 and the 417s. I really like how they drive. I also have a trf102 f1 kit but I would stay away from the f1 and 1/12 scale kits unless you have a prepared surface to run on, very low ground clearance and limited suspension. If you have any specific questions about them please feel free to ask.

Any will do, it's for a runner Baja 150. I prefer to buy from the US. Let me know, I'll probably get both if you want to let them go.

I have been looking for one of those aluminum motor mounts in the states for a while. If you drop that in the sell pile please let me know. Thanks

Thanks, but I found that one. I need the original Wild Willy, Super Champ, and a couple more, that link doesn't have the original release manuals.

I am looking for a download for several vintage manuals. I had them downloaded but my laptop crashed and I lost them. If anyone knows where I can download as a complete PDF, or is single page the only way to find them now? Thanks

If you don't mind telling me what you paid? I don't on w anything about on road. It is in a parts lot of off road cars I am looking at. Is it hard to find? Are parts very rare and expensive? What are the values in runner and shelf conditions? Deciding if I flip it as is or fix it up then flip, I'm just not into to on road stuff. Thanks

I looked this up and it doesn't look like the pic Can anyone positively identify this car?

After the first of the year I am going to finally pick up a 3speed tundra. I see most use a stick radio with a gate installed on the throttle to control gear selection. Wouldn't a 3chanel pistol grip work as long as it has a 3 position 3rd channel switch? If I have to purchase a new radio, I am leaning towards a dx4r in pistol or a dx6i if it has to be stick. Are there any mcu compatability problems with spectrum gear? Can someone explain how the mcu takes input from the transmitter and produces the sounds, lights, and vibrations? Thanks

Hey guys, what would a new in box 58001 body set sell for? Someone locally might have one in storage somewhere and I would like to offer a fair price if it is truly a complete nib set. Thanks

I wasn't looking to shine them, just soften them and get them black again. I think I will try some of leather conditioner I have for my 328, maybe that will get some oils back in the tire. I will post some before and after pics of the results.

OK, looked it up. What is the best source for glycerine otc in the US?

Several of my vintage tires have "grayed" and hardened over the years. How do you tackle this problem and get the nice black color back?

Any update yet? I have a Honda turbo on the way and would like to put it in when I build.

That is the same one I saw. Let me know how it goes and I might get one.