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Effigy3

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Everything posted by Effigy3

  1. It depends on how much you want to spend. If the XV-01 is an option then I'd say get it. I have two TT-02 rallys with a few hop-ups and a TT-02R rally. As nice as they are, the tubs pickup all sorts of debris, especially when running in an area with small stones and pebbles. They'll get caught under the drive shaft, and jam up the servo locking the steering. I'm looking into getting a Dusty Motors chassis cover to see if that makes a difference.
  2. Hey TurnipJF, did you ever finish this build? I'm helping a friend with a TT-02 rally bitsa project. Like you I had a ton of spares left over from various projects/hop-ups. We were short B and C sprues along with a bumper. I think we're all sorted out now but those darn C sprues are out of stock like EVERYWHERE. Must be people are taking all this time off to wrench on their R/Cs. :O
  3. I gave a whole pile of bits and bobs to my friend to build up a bitsa TT-02 rally. We're short a couple of parts sprues which we're working on sourcing. Can anyone confirm if these for the TT-01 will work on the TT-02? Part number: TAM9005718
  4. We need the prop shaft, drive cups, dog bones, and axles.
  5. Hey chaps, I'm trying to help a buddy build up his first TT-02 from my bits box. I've got almost all the parts necessary except a pair of C-sprues (51529). It seems like they are out of stock basically everywhere as well. Do any of you have a couple that you can sell? Thanks!
  6. I've been thinking about putting an interior and driver into my CC-01 Bronco. It'd be nice to up it's scale game. Do any of you have a suggestion on how to get a passable setup?
  7. How did I miss that he was running a CC-01? :O Sorry!
  8. Can you record a short video and post it so we can hear the noise? The motor type will change the sound tone the car makes while driving, but it should never sound like "grinding". Excessive noise can be caused by using the wrong pitch pinion gear, improper gear mesh, debris stuck in the drive train, and as I learned the hard way, the pinion grub screw interferes with the spur gear if you aren't careful. Sensorless brushless motors are known for cogging at low speeds. The poorer ones will cog sooner/worse than the better ones. A sensored motor should eliminate the cogging effect. That's the whole point of the sensor! If you are in fact experiencing cogging with a sensored brushless it may be an el cheapo motor (the TBLE-02S ESC is quite smooth) or it may be a defective motor. I would recommend NOT driving it with an obvious flaw in the drive train.
  9. I 2nd this! Excellent job. Your home-built accessories look as good as the Jun-Fac ect hop-ups I've bought for my own CC-01. Well done sir!
  10. No, it got an honorable mention though.
  11. Yeah, we used white duct tape to mark out the track. Mainly because we share this space with other people. They leave the tape alone but we can't have "proper" lane barriers either. As you noted, the upside is far fewer breaks from barrier impacts and repairs but we do have the occasional "on-coming traffic" issue. :O I have an M-05 vII R so it comes with a fair amount of hop-ups including the TRF shocks. I've added the aluminum steering bits and the aluminum motor cooling bars. I'm running a Tamiya GT Tuned motor so I think the cooling bars are mostly for looks. Yeah, the vII chassis is designed to fit square batteries.
  12. Yeah, we used white duct tape to mark out the track. Mainly because we share this space with other people. They leave the tape alone but we can't have "proper" lane barriers either. As you noted, the upside is far fewer breaks from barrier impacts and repairs but we do have the occasional "on-coming traffic" issue. :O I have an M-05 vII R so it comes with a fair amount of hop-ups including the TRF shocks. I've added the aluminum steering bits and the aluminum motor cooling bars. I'm running a Tamiya GT Tuned motor so I think the cooling bars are mostly for looks. Yeah, the vII chassis is designed to fit square batteries.
  13. Today was the M05 racing club day that I started at my son's elementary school. The kids run stock M05 and the dads & moms run open M05. Here're the kids racing. And the "dads" line up.
  14. Weird. I raced my 201 in the 17.5 blinky class for a little over a year and never rebuilt the ball diff. I ran a few different ESCs but the Speed Passion Reventon Pro 1.1 was the best. I started with a TBLE-02S. It was smooth but lacked real grunt. I had a Novak Impact that lasted one race day. Other than being horribly fragile it was a noticeable step up in performance. I went with Speed Passion and it has been great. They're a little harder to get than some other brands so I've switched over to HobbyWing for most of my cars now. These were all running the same Trinity D3.5 series motor. While technically an illegal ROAR motor, I'm such a poor driver no one gave me trouble running it.
  15. Thanks! This was the line-up last race. We just got a spot at the local mall. It's in their "party room" so we can't permanently set up a track. We started out using painters tape to line the track but quickly learned that it's not durable enough. We've moved to using white duct tape. It stands out against the carpeting very well and lasts all race day.
  16. I must've missed that tip! I've got my Tamiya gearbox cover all "customized" with a huge notch cut into it so there's room for the pinion to breath. I'll have to look into that AE option. Thanks!
  17. Hey folks, One of the parents in the Mini racing club I started at my kid's elementary school bought the club a base M05 off eBay for the club to use as a loaner car. It doesn't have dampers. I have all the plastic bits new on sprues from my own M-05 vII R but we lack 4 springs. Does anyone have a set of 4 springs that you'd be willing to donate to a good cause or be willing to sell cheap? PM me with details if you can help us out!
  18. Not the first time someone's done that! I had a buddy back in TX that killed his ESC doing exactly the same thing.
  19. A glitch buster is a capacitor that you plug into your receiver. It'll charge up and provide additional power on demand quicker than what the BEC can pull from the battery. This is usually only needed with a sub-par BEC or when a servo (maybe multiple servos) pull large current suddenly. Your ESC is a good one and your servo doesn't look to be overly taxing. It's probably not your issue but you can make one easily and cheaply enough. Even buying one is like $7 so it might be worth it to add one in. I'm glad that you're pleased with the motor. It is a beast, that's for sure! https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-make-your-own-recever-glitch-buster-for-1/
  20. What ESC and servo are you running? You said you had a 60a ESC but what is its BEC output? You might get away with just using a glitch buster capacitor. I run them on all my rigs with servos that have a big current draw, especially the Savox ones.
  21. Hey ThunderDragon, I have a couple of new in box Atomic 550 sensored motors. I picked them up directly from Atomic one Black Friday but I haven't had a need for them since. I'd be happy to let you have one for $30 +S&H if you'd like. PM me if you're interested and I'll take some pics for you.
  22. The teams are 1 kid and 1 parent. So yeah, we have a number of mature folks in the group! The battery is just an Onyx NiMh with a Castle Creations connector. I really like those connectors. They're easy to solder up and are much easier to connect/disconnect than standard Deans T-type plug.
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