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Effigy3

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Posts posted by Effigy3

  2. Posted

    Brilliant stuff!  Love the humor of your writing as well.  "All Tokyo Drift near Egypt"  ROFL!

    I'm still rocking the stock CC steering arms on mine because I haven't seen a good review of any hop-up options.  Anything anyone seemed pleased with was all home built, self engineered stuff. 

    I'm in the same boat at you with my Bronco.  While I thoroughly enjoyed my CC-01 on the walking trails when I lived in TX, where we use our trucks now in ME the CC-01 is too small to tackle the terrain.  My sons SCX10 is bone stock and does so much better of a job.  I have heaps of cash into my CC so I don't want to sell it but really it's gathering more dust on my shelf than from the trails at this point.

    • Like 2

  3. Posted

    It depends on how much you want to spend.  If the XV-01 is an option then I'd say get it.  I have two TT-02 rallys with a few hop-ups and a TT-02R rally.  As nice as they are, the tubs pickup all sorts of debris, especially when running in an area with small stones and pebbles.  They'll get caught under the drive shaft, and jam up the servo locking the steering.  I'm looking into getting a Dusty Motors chassis cover to see if that makes a difference.

  4. Posted

    Hey TurnipJF, did you ever finish this build?  I'm helping a friend with a TT-02 rally bitsa project.  Like you I had a ton of spares left over from various projects/hop-ups.  We were short B and C sprues along with a bumper.  I think we're all sorted out now but those darn C sprues are out of stock like EVERYWHERE.  Must be people are taking all this time off to wrench on their R/Cs.  :O

  7. Posted

    Hey chaps,

    I'm trying to help a buddy build up his first TT-02 from my bits box.  I've got almost all the parts necessary except a pair of C-sprues (51529).  It seems like they are out of stock basically everywhere as well.  Do any of you have a couple that you can sell?

    Thanks!

  11. Posted

    On 5/28/2019 at 1:23 PM, dannymulder said:

    today I test drive my new build cc-01 chassis for a half hour, I find the drivetrain a little noisy, I checked all the gears, and the mesh between the pinion and spur gear 2 times and tested the stock  tamiya pinion to, but that makes the same noise.
     

    I had a cc-01 before and I can't remember it was that noisy, but that car ran a brushed motor.

    I think its the sensored brushless motor that makes this sound at really low speeds, It makes cogging sounds and grinding sounds, its the first time I used the tamiya tble-02s esc and a sensored brushless motor, most of the times I use the hobbywing esc, so its the tamiya esc thats not so smooth or its the brushless motor.

    For now I am going to drive it the way it is, it drives fine but its a little noisy, and after the half hour drive I checked all the gears and they where fine.

    11

    Can you record a short video and post it so we can hear the noise?  The motor type will change the sound tone the car makes while driving, but it should never sound like "grinding".  Excessive noise can be caused by using the wrong pitch pinion gear, improper gear mesh, debris stuck in the drive train, and as I learned the hard way, the pinion grub screw interferes with the spur gear if you aren't careful.

    Sensorless brushless motors are known for cogging at low speeds.  The poorer ones will cog sooner/worse than the better ones.  A sensored motor should eliminate the cogging effect.  That's the whole point of the sensor!  If you are in fact experiencing cogging with a sensored brushless it may be an el cheapo motor (the TBLE-02S ESC is quite smooth) or it may be a defective motor.

    I would recommend NOT driving it with an obvious flaw in the drive train.

  12. Posted

    On 5/8/2019 at 8:01 AM, OldSchoolRC1 said:

    Enjoying all the home made bits. In this store bought/3D printed era, nice to see some actual fabrication taking place. 

    I 2nd this!  Excellent job.  Your home-built accessories look as good as the Jun-Fac ect hop-ups I've bought for my own CC-01.  Well done sir!

  14. Posted

    On 5/12/2019 at 1:11 AM, Jonathon Gillham said:

    That looks great. Have you taped the track? Makes sense as it will save a lot of arms and hubs, although could mean some headons I guess.

    Have you gone all out on your M05? TRF shocks? And they fit a square lipo - is the chassis designed to take them or you modified it to fit?

    Yeah, we used white duct tape to mark out the track.  Mainly because we share this space with other people.  They leave the tape alone but we can't have "proper" lane barriers either.  As you noted, the upside is far fewer breaks from barrier impacts and repairs but we do have the occasional "on-coming traffic" issue.  :O

    I have an M-05 vII R so it comes with a fair amount of hop-ups including the TRF shocks.  I've added the aluminum steering bits and the aluminum motor cooling bars. I'm running a Tamiya GT Tuned motor so I think the cooling bars are mostly for looks.  ;)   Yeah, the vII chassis is designed to fit square batteries.

     

  15. Posted

    On 5/12/2019 at 1:11 AM, Jonathon Gillham said:

    That looks great. Have you taped the track? Makes sense as it will save a lot of arms and hubs, although could mean some headons I guess.

    Have you gone all out on your M05? TRF shocks? And they fit a square lipo - is the chassis designed to take them or you modified it to fit?

    Yeah, we used white duct tape to mark out the track.  Mainly because we share this space with other people.  They leave the tape alone but we can't have "proper" lane barriers either.  As you noted, the upside is far fewer breaks from barrier impacts and repairs but we do have the occasional "on-coming traffic" issue.  :O

    I have an M-05 vII R so it comes with a fair amount of hop-ups including the TRF shocks.  I've added the aluminum steering bits and the aluminum motor cooling bars. I'm running a Tamiya GT Tuned motor so I think the cooling bars are mostly for looks.  ;)   Yeah, the vII chassis is designed to fit square batteries.

     

    • Like 1

  18. Posted

    On 4/29/2019 at 2:41 PM, Rb4276 said:

    I rebuild mine once or twice a year. After melting it and changing the gearing i never had an issue

    Weird.  I raced my 201 in the 17.5 blinky class for a little over a year and never rebuilt the ball diff.  I ran a few different ESCs but the Speed Passion Reventon Pro 1.1 was the best.  I started with a TBLE-02S.  It was smooth but lacked real grunt.  I had a Novak Impact that lasted one race day.  Other than being horribly fragile it was a noticeable step up in performance.  I went with Speed Passion and it has been great.  They're a little harder to get than some other brands so I've switched over to HobbyWing for most of my cars now.  These were all running the same Trinity D3.5 series motor.  While technically an illegal ROAR motor, I'm such a poor driver no one gave me trouble running it.  ;)

    • Like 1

  19. Posted

    12 hours ago, Jonathon Gillham said:

    I like stories like this, sorry I can't help with springs, but I really like what you've done, and good on the other parent for chipping in too.

    Thanks!  This was the line-up last race.  We just got a spot at the local mall.  It's in their "party room" so we can't permanently set up a track.  We started out using painters tape to line the track but quickly learned that it's not durable enough.  We've moved to using white duct tape.  It stands out against the carpeting very well and lasts all race day.

    04.29.2019-08.43.png

    • Like 1

  20. Posted

    On 4/10/2019 at 11:43 AM, Mahjik said:

    ... then use the Team Associated B4 gearbox cover to fit the pinion (thanks to the Facebook group for that info).  
     

     

    I must've missed that tip!  I've got my Tamiya gearbox cover all "customized" with a huge notch cut into it so there's room for the pinion to breath.  :)  I'll have to look into that AE option.

    Thanks!

  21. Posted

    Hey folks,

    One of the parents in the Mini racing club I started at my kid's elementary school bought the club a base M05 off eBay for the club to use as a loaner car.  It doesn't have dampers.  I have all the plastic bits new on sprues from my own M-05 vII R but we lack 4 springs.  Does anyone have a set of 4 springs that you'd be willing to donate to a good cause or be willing to sell cheap?

    PM me with details if you can help us out!

    04.28.2019-19.40.png

     

  24. Posted

    On 3/20/2019 at 11:07 AM, ThunderDragonCy said:

    Running a Hobbywing 10BL120 120a ESC with 6V @ 3amp. Servo is a Trackstar Digital. 4.8-6.0v. 

    https://hobbyking.com/en_us/trackstar-ts-621mg-digital-1-8-scale-truggy-steering-servo-21-2kg-0-14sec-57g.html

    What's a glitch buster? I suspect it's just me trying to use AM radios.

    The motor is amazing by the way. Absolute torque monster!

     

    A glitch buster is a capacitor that you plug into your receiver.  It'll charge up and provide additional power on demand quicker than what the BEC can pull from the battery.  This is usually only needed with a sub-par BEC or when a servo (maybe multiple servos) pull large current suddenly.  Your ESC is a good one and your servo doesn't look to be overly taxing.  It's probably not your issue but you can make one easily and cheaply enough.  Even buying one is like $7 so it might be worth it to add one in.

    I'm glad that you're pleased with the motor.  It is a beast, that's for sure!

    https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-make-your-own-recever-glitch-buster-for-1/

    • Thanks 1

  25. Posted

    17 hours ago, ThunderDragonCy said:

    FINALLY got a window of weather and opportunity to run some cars! Tried the new 550 motor in the Short Course Truck. Holy cow she's torquey! Much smoother on throttle being sensored so pretty happy with that. More glitching radio though. Annoying.

    2

    What ESC and servo are you running?  You said you had a 60a ESC but what is its BEC output?  You might get away with just using a glitch buster capacitor.  I run them on all my rigs with servos that have a big current draw, especially the Savox ones.

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