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Frog Jumper

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About Frog Jumper

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 11/24/1972

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  • Location
    35°46'49.5"N, 78°38'21.0"W
  • Interests
    Need help with a Blackfoot or Frog???  Send me a Private Message!

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  1. I have an old toothbrush which has been soaked in 3-in-1 oil and then left to dry. I use it to brush off my cars when they get dirty. The oily brush leaves enough of a film to prevent most rusting. Not sure if this is a good idea but I’ve been doing it forever without any visible damage… I used to spray out my wheel bearings with wd40 and then regrease then, but I’ve gotten lazy and now just replace them when they get bad.
  2. Some playtime with the Bushy D… Yesterday night I replaced the JG Mfg front shock tower and brace with this beautiful aluminum unknown maker front tower with built in brace. Tonight I tweaked the body mount - replaced slotted screwed with hex and shortened the actual plastic mount. I also added an another 5mm spacer where the steering turnbuckle connects to the steering knuckle on both sides. I had to trim the knuckle slightly. And I replaced the spacers I had mounting the front shocks with shorter spacers. Works much better. The front end is getting there…
  3. One chassis to rule them all. One chassis to find them. One chassis to bring them all, and in Tamiya bind them.
  4. The Parma Puller body is back up: https://www.ebay.com/itm/325518446341?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=cZ_hg762TYK&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=-IHU6wS3Qt-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=EMAIL Sent from my iPhone
  5. Dang…. There was a Parma Puller truck body on eBay’s but it looks like it’s gone now…
  6. First off, imo you should disassemble, clean, and reassemble your BF and leave it as is. OG plastics get brittle over time and (based on my my own experience) you’ll end up replacing a lot of the plastic with ReRe. Screws get stripped or rusty, etc. But to go through your notes… 1a. Neither part is required and the Frog metal MSC plate and the ReRe metal bars work just as well to provide lateral support. The dust cover is a good method to support the front shock brace and you should keep and eye out for one. 1b. If you plan on piecing together a CRP setup, you won’t need the SBF cover and you can use the standard BF dust cover. Both versions of the dust cover will work in conjunction with the CRP setup. I personally think the CRP setup is a required upgrade. 2a. I own an MIP but I have never installed it. I also have a Thorp in one of my Frogs, the standard ReRe gears and Frog dogbones in two others. I’ve also run a Robinson. The Robinson was nice but replacement parts are next to impossible to find and expensive when you do. The Thorp is awesome but it’s a ball diff and by definition is fiddly and required regular adjustment. The kit gears are reliable and cheap and easy to replace. At this point, I prefer the Frog gears with the Frog ‘bones. I have not tried any of the CVD shafts. I’ve also never done the FrogShot mod. I use the MHeald tranny brace and a couple of the Xeostar braces. IMO, I think the brace is a required upgrade bc it eliminates the need to upgrade the gears or do the FrogShot mod. 3. I can’t find the thread now either too tired to do the serious searching. 4. Bearings of your choice. I buy Fast Eddy bc it’s easy. 5. I still use the brass tubes with a washer on top. On one of my Frogs, I’ve eliminated the radius arms altogether. 6. The CMC v2 plays nicely with the SBF msc plate. It made to work with it actually, but also to fit the larger Kimbrough HD servo savers. (Kimbrough #124). 7. 50520s are my go to for BFs. 50519 for the front of a Frog. You’ll have to limit the downstroke so as not not bind the dogbones. 8. The only thing I can think of as to why you would this mod is that the KBF/SBF knuckles are more common (I think they’re the same as many other chassis’). Yes you will need longer radius arms. Search and find my 12mm hex front mod. 9. Frog or CRP plate is required. I prefer the CRP. Look for the center plate from ampro on Shapeways. 10. It was fine, until it died. I’ve since made a new DIY mount and have mounted my new ESC where the original AA receiver battery pack used to sit. I cut a hole in my SBF msc plate for the fan. 11. I’m using different rear mounts depending on the ORV. No comments except that the CRP setup above will work with the kit rear BF mounts (no need to get the very rare CRP rear mounts), and you should get the aluminum cross member to replace the horrible plastic one. The CRP setup will protect the rear mounts. 12. Get the CRPs now. You’re going to need them anyways. 13. The CRP part is far superior to the Frog part. The advantage is that you can run a threaded rod through the lower hole, through the tranny (the unused battery clip hole) to the other side. Loosening or tightening this helps with slop. The little tube piece goes inside the tranny case where the swing arms insert. 14. The metal ampro ones are nice. The DIY plexiglass ones I took off a beat up eBay BF are nicer. Just pick something and go for it. This is a required upgrade. 15a. Each third party gear set will have its own recommendations. Be sure to research. For example, the Robinson ball diffs use imperial pitch. Thorp is a clone of Frog. MIP uses the BF spur. 15b. The CRP mount is the easiest to work with. The CRA is just a metal version of it. There is a round mount that works but is a pain to mount. You will need a Thorp extra long pinion unless you use a motor with a long shaft, even then I would recommend the Thorp extra long steel. 16. I think the sway bar is junk. There is a better design out there but I haven’t tested it yet. 17. The CRP battery clip is junk. Use the Frog clip. Use the leftover plastic bushing bearings as spacers for the battery holders. FJ additional comments: 1. N/A 2. The length of your turnbuckle will depend on the lengths of your suspension arms and the ball ends you use. I recommend using cheap M3 threaded rod (cut to length) to determine the length you need, then buying a turnbuckle around me the same length. If need be, get one a couple of mm too long and cut off the excess. 3. Yes CRP all the way! Additional additional questions: 1. Lexan bodies. The Tamiya Landfreeder is the same as the Bush Devil and will fit. All others will need work of some sort to fit. 2. Any 2.2 truck tire will fit. 2.2 buggy tires are too skinny. Be sure NOT to get 2.2/3.0 tires which will not fit. I still love Imex and Proline tires the most. 3. Motor? Torque tuned. Or mild brushless. See HobbyWing. 4. Servo? I’m currently a fanboy of Power Hobby servos. I’m using a #130MG servo in my main runner and I love it. Fast, lots of torque, waterproof, metal gears and case.
  7. That BF Guide is still relevant. I’m the last poster in that thread so if you have any questions, I can likely answer them.
  8. I had to buy a pinion remover tool to get one of a used motor i got from eBay. I guess they used red thread lock??? it gave me a reason to buy a vintage Thorp tool!
  9. I use Locktite blue. https://www.loctiteproducts.com/en/products/specialty-products/specialty/loctite_threadlockerblue242.html
  10. I like the way the orange one turned out. Nice recovery!
  11. A tiny drop of thread lock on the grub will keep it in place. Wipe off any excess so as to not damage the plastic innards.
  12. I was going to do a long write up, but I decided to do an update to my Post Build thread… But to answer your question, I would get the Tamiya metal Motor Bridge and Spur Mount. Install during initial build to avoid having to rebuild later if you decide you need them. I would also add weights where you can and preload the kit shocks to preference. I took all the spacers out of my kit shocks and used x-rings and green slime. Kit 200 oil. All this helps with the bouncing and lets it roll nicer. Upgrade the wheels and tires. You’ve already mentioned replacing the drive shafts. Be aware of the length you’ll need per the wheelbase you choose. I’m using a CR01 shaft for one of them (front I think). For my own CC02, my next upgrade will likely be GPM shock mounts (I want Eagle Racing but pricey and hard to find) and Jaz shock mount bridges. I’ve noticed that my kit shock mounts flex slightly, especially the rear. Enjoy you kit! Terry
  13. Update to the thread, with pictures! 1. Rear: Yeah Racing rear skid plate, 75mm steel Tamiya drive shaft, Jaz Hobby aluminum links, Desert Lizard 100mm shocks, Injora 12mm brass hexes with nuts, SSD 1.9 steel slots, Pitbull Rock Beasts. Not shown: JunFac steel in the axle, XL hair bun donut foams. 2. Front: Same as rear, but with 85mm drift shaft. 3. Center: Yeah Racing skid, Injora sliders, Eagle Racing Link Connectors. 4. Battery tray: Kit flapper turned 180 to support shorty battery. DIY brass tube “mufflers” (rear slides). 5. Front: DIY axle servo mount, JunFac steering kit, 6. Front: DIY Chinese food tub fenders, Dual sound box, magnet mounts, Yeah Racing front skid bumper. 7. Top: Lots of stick on weights, DIY motor spacer, Kyosho motor boot, Dual sound box, magnet mounts, DIY Chinese food tub fenders. Not shown: Tamiya metal motor brace, Tamiya spur gear mount. Stainless steel hex hardware throughout. I think that’s all of it, but I’m probably forgetting something. Also, wheelbase, at rest with droop, is approx 244mm. Terry
  14. Roll the car off a few rocks on your next trail run and you won’t mind so much! Lol!
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