Jump to content

Frog Jumper

Members
  • Content Count

    1602
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1056 Excellent

About Frog Jumper

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 11/24/1972

Profile Information

  • Location
    35°46'49.5"N, 78°38'21.0"W
  • Interests
    Need help with a Blackfoot or Frog???  Send me a Private Message!

Recent Profile Visitors

3765 profile views
  1. There are several manufacturers that make a hex to bearing adapter. It’s basically a hex nut that holding one or more bearings inside allowing the wheel to spin. In my experience, they don’t work well. You might have better luck... Alternatively, you could use Blackfoot wheels and tires. They should work. Terry
  2. I have a $1300 digital audio field recorder on my desk. I bought it 15 years ago??? Now it’s worth maybe $100??? Probably less... Terry
  3. I just spent $50 on red and gold paint at the LHS. I blame you... Terry
  4. My past hobbies included partying hard, drinking late, listening to loud live music, and perusing the all-you-can-eat buffet of college women. My wife is glad to see me at home with a few beers and an RC car... Terry
  5. I have a Tamiya 10.5 in my Jumper. I’m using the typical TBLE02 with no issues. I bought a Tamiya Sensor Cable to complete the set. Works great. That said, there are better ESCs out there... Terry
  6. Wow, taking a closer look at the chassis on my PC, it is really nice and clean. With some searching and patience, you can fine Original GH parts to replace things like your front bumper. Tires might be harder to replace - they don't age well. The ReRe ties are exactly like the original (well I think they are slightly different but you won't notice). And you could get a ReRe body. AFAIK, there is no difference b/w the OG body and the ReRe body, except maybe badging on the inside. And there are 3rd party manufacturer's that make clones of the Original decals... And then I would get a ReRe GH and drive the living daylights out of that! Hopefully some of the GH/Hornet experts will pop up... Terry
  7. This^^^ My Shelf Queen shelf is empty as all my Shelf Queens are in various stages of mods, re-builds, waiting for the next drive, etc... I tend to use "Shelf Queen" as a phrase to mean any car that I would cry over if it broke... Terry
  8. When I rebuild my Frog a few years back I found a lot of the plastic had become brittle and broke easily. I ended up replacing most of my car with ReRe parts. Save yourself the same headache and buy a new ReRe Grasshopper. For your original, clean it up and put it on a shelf. Terry
  9. “Sassy chassis” used to make these chassis’ and you’ll see one occasionally on eBay. eBay seller “sicnme” sells the modern version of it, which I’ve take to calling the Crashy or Flashy or even Bashy Chassis... He doesn’t have them listed ATM but you can send him a message and get one. He told me he didn’t like the way the top part of the tranny connected so he made a Mod. I might have one of the first Moded Trashy Chassis... Terry
  10. Also, based on the steering mechanism, I’d say this car started life as a Brat... Terry
  11. There are some Hop-ups on the car including: blue Parma heat sink revtech motor 3rd party rear shocks Parma rear sway bar CRP front bumper unkniwn front shock mods Parma uni-shock front arms 3rd party tires And probably a few others Is the car worth it??? As a first ORV, no. Buy a ReRe. As a second ORV, yes buy it for the Hop-Ups. If the car is wrecked, no amount of cool hop-ups will fix that. My opinion... Terry
  12. Added OG Frog front mounts and CRP front arms. I used some extra tranny doohickies to hold them together... Bought a #54574 TT02 AL racing steering set to do up the steering. I don’t know the Hole to Hole distance on the TT02 A5 part so I made my own out of 1/16” AL “bars. I had to get creative, and it took me several times with different configurations to get it all to fit, but this is a good start... I need some more button head hex screws... I really like the fact that you can adjust the “attack” angle with the Crashy Chassis... Those are CRP front arms. I’ll definitely be changing them out for the AL arms I have on the Jumper... Here it is from another angle:
  13. Thanks to all and sicnme for the Flashy Chassis... I picked up the body years ago as a thank you to a store owner that let me use and peruse his shop for an afternoon...
  14. This is the CRP#1606 with (2) M3x55 hex screws into one of those tranny doohickies in the unused battery pin hole. This let me loosen or tighten each side and take out any slop. And yes, while CRP doesn’t tell you this, and very few people do this, this is what the extra hole in the CRP is for... Terry
×
×
  • Create New...