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About LeftyAl

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    Sydney, Australia

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  1. Have done the same. Replaced with Deans and no more issues. Now I use XT90s, but in hindsight XT60s would have been fine.
  2. I worked out today that dampers will work much better with some oil in them!!!! That will help dial out some of the erratic changes of direction.
  3. We got a sunny spell that dried up the ground enough to do some more testing this afternoon. The Tamiya soft narrows made a huge difference. Much more controllable and even managed to do a few traction rolls. It does donuts better in reverse now . Through the week I will move the one way to the rear countershaft and see how that goes, As I mentioned earlier, whilst the exercise is not ground breaking it is certainly entertaining enough. Thar car probably hung on the wall for the best part of 3 yrs since it was last enjoyed, The FF01 thread got me thinking about getting my FF01 off the wall....then remembered how much the new gear case was that I installed after the last run.... Might have to get an FF03.
  4. Rain over the last few days has stopped any more testing. I found a yellow (soft I think) swaybar and bolted that to the front. I'll also dial the punch down a bit on the ESC.
  5. Spent some time trying to sort the steering out. In the last drive no matter how much I trimmed the steering the car would pull right. Found the culprit to be a hit on the front right wheel had managed to damage the rear gearbox where the hinge pin goes for the lower arm. Found an old one, cleaned it up and installed it. Will drill out the old one and install a flanged tube to repair it so I will still have a spare. Reset all the steering back to factory measurements and checked the servo for centre. The Colt slicks I used last run are pretty hard. Good for donuts and sliding, but not much chop for decent control (probably helps to explain to hit on the front right). Put a set of Tamiya Narrows on for the next run. Will be going down to the local netball courts on the weekend, so if i have managed to sort the steering and handling.... I will install a bigger pinion and see what sort of speed it can make.
  6. Pulled the gear boxes last night. Greased the gears and oiled all the bearings. Bolted in an 11.5T motor with the stock 14T pinion. As expected lots of over steer both on throttle and off throttle turning. But it brakes in a straight line. Next step is to try some foam GRP tyres and then some soft rubber tyres. After that I will try the one way on the rear counter shaft.
  7. I have a King Blackfoot and it shares some of the handling challenges and scuffing up the body every time it goes for a tumble. My solution was to buy a second body to be used as a display body so I stopped getting worried about the scratches. Then I put a 4000kV motor in it and modded the rear gear case to take a Lunch Box wheelie bar. It would bring a smile to your face every time the front end lifts up and ended up being more enjoyable to drive. Agree on getting more enjoyment out of running on dirt. Getting a good drift happening through a big sweeper is a challenge and very rewarding when you get it right.
  8. My interest in a RWD car with decent brakes was piqued in a thread a little while ago. After the talk about one way bearings it got me thinking about trying this out on my TA03R. It started life out as a TA03F my mate bought nearly 20 years ago. I spend an afternoon at his house helping him built it. About 5 yrs ago he was cleaning up his study and dropped it off to me in near mint condition as it was just taking up space and not being used. Seeing as I already had a heavily modified TA03F I decided to turn this one into a TA03R. It was used a couple more times and then hung up on the wall. Now it has been bought back to life with the purchase of a Torque Splitter part # 53279. I opened up the front gearbox and installed the unit with the bearing reversed. Just gave it a quick test run and it has all the characteristics of RWD lacking traction, but with 4WD brakes. It has gear diffs so the rear end steps out quite easily with a Tamiya 23T motor. Next steps are to strip the gear boxes down for a re oil/grease and put in a 3000kV motor. I have a good supply of new tyres so will also spend some time seeing what works well. Will also try putting the torque unit in the rear gearbox to see if that makes any noticeable difference. Whilst this isn't necessarily the most exciting, original or ground breaking news, anything that helps keep an interest in a neglected chassis must be a good thing.
  9. Replacement ESC for the WW2 turned up today, so thought I would take the battery and motor connectors off the dud one and put on the new one. Found out 2 of the motor connectors had broken solder joints....so my initial diagnosis of a sus motor and then thinking it was a dead ESC has resulted in me now having a space ESC. I am sure it wont go to waste, but goes to show even after so many ESC/motor changes/updates that it is still easy to misdiagnose a problem.
  10. Blew the cobwebs off my TA03R in readiness for installing the one way bearing the wrong way to see if I can make a RWD car with 4WD braking. Put a Tamiya 23T motor in, just waiting to the one way to arrive. I forgot how noisy the TA03 is compared to a TA04. Might need to pull the gearboxes apart and re-grease/oil the gears and bearings.
  11. I tend to drive my cars on asphalt more than off road so I just tighten them up to lock and then go driving. When doing some weekend sprint car racing, I did try backing the clutch off just a tad as the track was pretty slippery. But the more laps we did, the smoother the track got and went back to locking it again. So I suppose the answer to the OP is it depends on the driving conditions and probably the driver;s skill too. I hadn't heard of slipper eliminators before, but they do make sense to use if the conditions are right. Rotating mass is something that can have a major impact on a car. I was using 2 similar cars and couldn't work out why one accelerated so much better. I eventually weighed the wheels/tyres and found that the foam ones were less than half the weight of the rubber ones.
  12. I have run a 4800kv with 17T pinion on 2.2" truck wheels and tyres. Motor doesn't get a chance to get hot as it would spend more time on it's lid. Have gone back to a 4000kv, but a 3300-3500 would probably be just about perfect.
  13. I have a small fishing tackle box. It has 4 removable trays with compartments plus almost enough room to store tools and ESC programmers. It goes everywhere the cars go and has all the screws, bolts, bearings, pinion gears etc for the currently used cars. Somewhat less organised is the 6 large containers of gear I just tend to dump stuff into. Have been thinking about getting some smaller containers and sorting it by chassis/ type for the parts trees etc. Then another one for electronics and lastly a large one for wheels and tyres. Just need to stop thinking about it and start doing something about it
  14. Go the Manta Ray and get the nostalgia box ticked. I used to drool over the Hornet and Frog when I was a lad, but was never allowed to get one. Later on in adult life I wandered into the LHS to get a Hornet, but come home with a Super Hornet,. Not long after I got a Dirt Thrasher. Then in 2005 when the Frog was re-released I had one on order quick smart. That slippery slope has now accounted for 27 cars hanging on the wall. From memory the only thing to be conscious of in the Manta Ray/Dirt Thrasher chassis it the bolt mod for the rear gearbox as the screws tends to strip out. When this happens there is nothing to keep the idler gear in place. Step 6 here https://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/rcmanual/58360mantaray.pdf The fix is to drill the hole out so a 3mm bolt will fit through and used a lock nut.
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