Fausto198
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Posts posted by Fausto198
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Don't know for sure but I't say the tapered side goes on the inside.
That way you can adjust the camber and get more rubber down.
but its just a guess!
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I had a Motor related question.
http://' target="_blank">http://www.tamiyaclub.com/xforum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=10109
hope fully this may shed some light but I'm still in the dark about which to get.
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Yeah thought it was a bit odd.
Just as well really, I almost when and spent £50 on a new unused kit of the Bay just to get (what I thought would be) longer arms.
Thanks boys, saved me some cash!
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HI SparX,
Don't worry about the sound from the ESC when you are actually pushing the stick forward or backwards.
I have a P-sung ESC and it makes a simliar noise when I push the stick in either direction.
Like the others have said just adjust the trim a notch or two until it stops when idle.
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If your just a weekend fun runner I don't think you can far wrong with the Ripmax 2500 pro peak charger for £30.
Its just one button and two lights to worry about.
Specs
• AC220/230v and DC12v input voltage
• Delta Peak Cut Off
• Auto Trickle Charge
• Fast Charge 3.5Amp
• Slow Charge: 130mAh 4.8~9.6v AC / -130mAh 4.8~8.4v DC
• Fast Charge 7.2~8.4v NiCad Packs
• Slow/Fast Charge 4.8~8.4v NiCad/Ni-MH Packs DC Input
• Slow/Fast Charge 4.8~9.6v
NiCad/Ni-MH Packs AC Input
• Audible Error Alarms:
–Output Disconnection
–NiCad/Ni-MH Short Circuit
–Low Input Voltage
• Auto Shut Down
• Reverse Polarity Protection
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Thanks Hellbilly,
Maybe you should go work for Tamiya and keep their site up to date?[
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A low friction type which your local RC shop should stock.
Remember, too much will slow you down.
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Snollan posted a query about the TLO1 LA.
looking the limeted info on the Tamiya web site I didn't find the answer I was after...
Does anyone know if it changes the dimensions of the car in any way?
The overall width of the TLO1-LA kit seem the same as the standard.
[?]
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I don't know if this is relevant or not but I heard that if you go too low in Motor turns the heat generated by the motors can warp the plastic parts and I would assume the grears.
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Thanks Tam,
The track is the one at Tolworth:
http://' target="_blank">http://www.trccc.com/
Id say it was more Technical than anything but the bummer is it has this F***ing long straight the length of the track so motor/gear setup is a bit of juggling act.
Don't think I'll go down as far as 14 turn just yet or I'll just end up in car park or the cricket green.
But every bit of advise you guys are giving me is a great help.
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Thanks Biggus,
I'll bear that in mind when choosing one.
....and Ball raced goes with out saying right?
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Thanks for the tip Sosidge.
Yes I agree buying cheap is a false economy ultimately.
But they'd probably be fine for just hacking round a track Sunday afternoon.
When I decide to do it a bit more seriously, then I'll splash out on a decent robust motor.
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Thanks for the advise Gates.
Your right at those prices, you can't go much wrong.
However one other thing...
Would you (or anyone else) explaine what the x1,x2 means?
Thanks again
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Got a TL01 chassis, Ball raced, oil damped, no limit p-sung ESC other than that the car is standard.
I run it on a tarmac surface at my local club, exceleration is fine (but could be better) but I'm not too impressed with the top end.
At the moment I'm just having fun with it, with a view to racing later on.
Do you think I should go for a better 27turn motor or go down as far as 19/20turn if I want better allround performance.
Can anyone suggest motors I should consider?
thx
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Ball bearings definately.
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Got the Mini CVA's on mine they work fine.
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Hop Ups
in RC Racing Talk
Posted
Joe,
All the other guys have made some very good points.
Here are mine:
Walk before you run, otherwise your just going to smash your body shell and car to bits.
Buy a cheaper body from say HPI and learn with that one (trust me)you can buy 2 of them for the same price as a Tamiya shell.
for £45 you can get a P-sung unlimted ESC from most places, so at least as you get better you can drop faster motors in without changing the ESC ever again.
I use 3000 mah Annsman batts which last 20 mins or so on the track.
Get good set of tires, Pit d20 for wets and take off cs22 for dry both stick like glue in their respective conditions.
what I've done is:
Ball raced the car.
CVA super mini shocks
road tuned spring set.
Turnbuckle tie rod set
adjustable upper arms
Speed tuned gear set
All of this and I still have a stock motor, why?
because I'm learning to control the car rather than blast away at full speed before I and the car can handle it!