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RMR110

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About RMR110

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  1. While my vintage buggy still has all the standard wheels and rubber, i wanted to take advantage of commonly available alternatives so i could put the original stuff away. The rear is simple if you have the re-re axles as they already have a pin layout allowing you to add a 12mm Hex adapter and fit most 2.2 wheels of your choice. However I was still looking at the best options for adding 2.2 wheels and tyres to the front of my Rough Rider, and wanted to share my journey and solution. The twin challenges were getting rims that were bearing enabled, and extending the axle out enough so the new rim didn't interfere with the steering upright. I found some JConcepts rims for the front that are meant for Team associated models (they take an imperial bearing but a 5x9x3 with a small shim or loctite still works fine), but they still needed to be spaced out far enough that there were too few threads for the nut. So I needed an axle extender. I could have ordered the CRP extenders but with the Sth pacific peso heading south daily, and me being too impatient to wait for up to 30 day delivery, I looked around for some alternative options. I usually start this kind of DIY bodge with the thought of "what can I repurpose" rather than starting from scratch. So I looked at the problem from 2 directions was there something with an M4 thread to screw onto the existing axle that had an OD close to 5mm, or was there something with a 5mm OD to match the axle OD, that could be tapped for an m4 thread. In the end I tried both methods. Option 1 - M4 threaded inserts I found threaded inserts (rivnuts) with M4 threads and a 6mm OD at a local hardware store The rivnuts threaded on to the existing front axle just fine, but obviously the outer diameter was too big to allow my bearings to fit. Not having access to a Lathe, I was wondering how to manage this when it struck me that using a spare rear axle as a holder, I could put the whole lot in a drill, and with gentle pressure use a file to take the 0.8mm I needed off the OD. This turned out to be easier than expected; This worked out fine, but with a largish overhang from the part not reduced which I would take up with a washer and spacer. Option 2 - 5mm OD spacers Coincidentally I found a second option in an electronics store in the form of 5mm steel "stand-off" spacers. These hold a circuit board off another, and were hollow with a 5mm OD, so then needed an M4 thread in them. While I've never used a tap to cut a thread, I did have a set, so figured since they were so cheap, I could probably afford to mess around some. In the end it was again pretty straightforward and seemed to have worked fine. I threaded them full length so I could use an M4 bolt to hold a washer and spacer at the other end. The advantage of this method is that I can easily cut the extension to size, which is not as easy with the rivnuts due to their shape. At the moment I have it at a length that means I add a small spacer and washer to hold the bearing in. I'm waiting until I get the slightly larger bearings before I cut it down to exact size, but have loctited them to the axle so they don't unwind on reversing. The total cost of the rivnut method was ~A$5 (or 25c a piece if you made all 20 into extenders), and the standoff method was a little higher at ~62c a piece. This compares to about A$19 if ordered off ebay, plus i got to install and use them about 1 hour after i started the project.. Here's the end result on my buggy. Hopefully this helps someone else.
  2. I will use the white wheels i think as i like the slightly taller but narrower appearance for those tires Thats unfortunate as for the rear I prefer the black Proline's as they have a wider offset which sets the tyres further out and helps the coilovers work better. Here is the all white option. Here is the all black option. So until i have a better option it will be a zebra for a while. I will keep the black front rims and get another set of tyres so i have 2 complete sets for sand or dry surfaces. This combination of new rims and tyres won't please the vintage purists but it makes me happy and that's what counts so long as i own it cheers
  3. Thanks for the explanation LongRat, metallurgy is not my strong point and you've highlighted that the description around these is often misleading, and taught me something to boot. If I decide to have some made I'll be better placed to specify what i need rather than just ask for hardened steel ( i think SS or piano wire sounds good). Cheers.
  4. Thanks, i do have the 5x8 flanged bearings after using them in another project. With these tyres however, the opening is larger and even the 8mm OD flanged bearing drops too far into the well opening. I have measured the opening at around 9.4mm - 9.5mm (although it makes more sense that its 3/8 which is supposed to be 9.52mm). I had found some 5x9x3mm bearings which i was going to try next if there is nothing suitable in imperial.
  5. back to the drawing board as the axle opening on that imperial bearing will be too small. The 5/16 dimension is the outer diameter of the bearing to fit into the opening and is fine. As you commented in the 1st post, metric Tamiya and imperial don't easily mix.
  6. The safest might be for me to use the backend of my drill bits in the various sizes to check fit and slop.
  7. Hi Backlash, i have been ordering bearings from Plaig bearings and doing the calculations, I believe that a 3/16 x 5/16 equates to 5mm centre hole (same size as the axle) by 8mm (space on the rim for the bearing to seat) by whatever depth it comes in (plus its flanged). What part do you think wouldn't match up? I'm interested as i have bought some different Jconcepts wheels and tested them with some other flanged bearings i had from Plaig (5 x 8 x 2.5mm). The axle part was fine, but the OD of the bearing needed to be bigger to seat on the outside of the seat, and i was going to order the imperial ones to suit.
  8. Hi Swarm, i had to look twice to see what you had asked about and then checked it out and found it was an old box with some tiny lights but no car inside. I like the additional information that the De Tomaso it was modeled on was from Itary ( ) Edit: You made me curious what the lights were, so has anyone seen these? Were they an early version to run behind the standard SRB lights?
  9. I am not sure of the protocol for posting links to commercial sellers, but i just noticed a sale going online that members might be interested in with some Jconcept wheels in Black or white in what i believe is the right size for vintage SRB tyres. they also note that " The Hazard front wheel accepts the 3/16” x 5/16” flanged bearing or bushing found on the original and Classic RC10." Takes a 1.7 tyre If someone can confirm that posting a link is Kosher, I can share as the prices seem very keen (note i having nothing to do with the hobby industry so am not connected with the seller in any way apart from being a customer).
  10. "frantically searches ebay for original SC arms"...... I think i may just order some replacements then try the DIY hardening on the new ones. I understand the risk is they turn hard but brittle so i may snap them, but if it works then it will eliminate another problem area. I did read a 2011 thread on this forum where a machinist made his own using hardened steel, and if i had a friend with a lathe i would go down that route myself.
  11. Cheers thanks, I gleaned a lot of info when I started the resto about 2 months ago, so wanted to share what I'd managed to do as its a little more "bush mechanic" than some of the other builds. I have to agree about the username, as i was sitting looking for inspiration with the buggy in front of me, and was pleasantly surprised that my 1st choice was available.. For the front wheels I found a JConcepts wheel with a good offset online, and then coincidentally found a pack of 4 of these in the dump bin at my LHS Both will take bearings front and rear, although the black ones need a 12mm Hex on the back, but I've made those now anyway. I still haven't decided which to go with as they are different widths. Here is the same tyre on each compared to the stock
  12. Hi Falcon#5, thanks for the interest. I'm also pleasantly surprised at how well its stood the test of time and figure its because it was in a box all this time away from UV, plus the quality of the original plastics and castings. I fully expected that the old FM radio would be a problem, but apart from some interference when I tried to relocate the Rx (fixed by returning it to the nose of the radio box), it has been perfect. I guess because I'm not running it at a track full of others, and everyone nearby who runs a car has 2.4Ghz I have yet to experience any real interference. I created a separate thread on the wide track chassis I made (see here) as I thought it might appeal to more people than just a thread (this one) on a new member. Edited to show the chassis photo When I've taken some more shots I'll post up on the suspension changes also, plus I'm still grappling with a front axle extension (the CRP one looks good, its just stupidly expensive for a small part when I try to get it shipped to Oz) to allow me to run some new bearing enabled front rims and tyres. Cheers RMR110
  13. Hi Nobbi, thanks for the comment. Yellowcat - i only discovered your template after i had spent the time and effort on mine, and you can see its not as finished as yours. I didn't have a lot of choice of grade at my aluminium supplier, and had to do an online check of what grade it would have been (6060 T5 apparently). Two things make me less afraid of bending it, first being that as a vintage runner, the SRB's just aren't balanced enough to "fly" very well, so i just avoid jumps, and secondly the 3mm alloy is much much stronger than the FRP plate it was originally shipped with so sandwiched together as they are, I'm happy. I've made some other items out of 1.5mm and they have more flex that i'd like. I like your custom bugs in the gallery, with the suspension shots an influence on what i ended up fabricating to improve the suspension.
  14. Hi TC, i recently experimented with extending the chassis of my Rough Rider, and wanted to share the steps. I wanted to move the weight a little forward, and give the buggy a wider stance up front to track better without rolling as often, and so in stage 1, I made a cardboard template where i traced the existing mounting points, before cutting a wider nose out of 3mm aluminium plate. Since the length wasn't hugely different i left the servo saver / steering where it was and just lengthened the steering rods. While rough and ready, the chassis extension served to show me that the mod made a positive difference to stability. In stage 2, I decided that it would be better to extend this alloy back to replace the stock stiffening plate as it would allow me to improve the looks, and should help reinforce the existing chassis plate. I'm not a machinist, don't have access to a CNC or worked with aluminium much, so there was lots of measuring, and sketches, before a final template was created, as it would be cut and shaped by hand. This was carefully transferred to 3mm plate, cut with a jigsaw, then filed and finished by hand. It hasn't been polished as i expect it to scuff quickly in use. The finished item provides ~25mm increased length, and ~20mm wider track, and importantly it still allows the stock bumper to fit. I've left the original fibreglass chassis in place but could probably also remove it for an exoskeleton look. Keeping the steering in its stock location means the body still fits as before. Most of the stock bolts and nuts were re-used as they were long enough to absorb the additional 3mm of the plate. Extending the front track meant I needed to replace the front aluminium tubes, which were sourced from my lhs. To keep the suspension pins from sliding back inside the longer tubes, i slipped some plastic tubing (garden sprinkler pipe from the hardware store) in to fill the space before reassembling them. All up it took about 8 hours (7hrs of design and measuring, 1 of cutting and shaping) I hope this may inspire others, as its made a very positive difference to how my RR handles bumps, and corners. I've not yet mastered the 1 handed driving/ video technique so will have to post some video at a later stage.
  15. Hi Jamlot, I put a 13.5T into my SRB and agree that its actually more fun with a mild boost up rather than too much power. I'd suggest the better path is to get a milder motor plus programmable ESC and the card to talk to, so you can adjust the initial power feed in, braking etc to protect the drivetrain. Many people have suggested the 13T Hobbywing series (there's a few examples on Youtube) as it slides in fine. After I made the upgrade I couldn't stop smiling and couldn't be happier months later, but beware that if your chassis isn't up to scratch, the crashes happen more frequently and at higher speeds (= more $$) so do you test runs on the beach or somewhere forgiving.
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