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StueyS

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About StueyS

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  1. If you want more up travel to go with the extra droop, you probably need taller shock towers so you can have longer stroke shocks. This is not so easy on a TT02, I have a Type S built as a Rally car which has shock towers that can be replaced and modded to raise the upper mounting point. Having the chassis capable of bottoming out before the shock travel ends is desirable IMO, my race buggies can do this and it takes the strain off of the shocks.
  2. It might be worth posting on the Iconic RC pages on FB for another audience.
  3. This is clearly an issue, but I doubt it will improve unless an aftermarket option becomes easily available or Tamiya produce an updated part.
  4. https://www.shapeways.com/product/VS627YQB9/hd-thundershot-arms-x4-tamiya-terra-scorcher-d1?optionId=66766329
  5. The 3d printed heavy duty arms have more material around the inner hinge pins so hopefully a bit more sturdy. With the postage from Shapeways they are not cheap. Not racing the car for me is unacceptable.
  6. I have two Terra Scorcher 2020 kits I bought in winter 2021 that have split the front wishbones from light contact on the front wheels. I managed to get some older arms second hand which have been fine so far, and some nylon 3d printed arms which are also working out fine. I think there has been a batch of bad arms, or a possible change of material. Quite how you might tell I don't know!
  7. You can fit any 12mm hex adaptors that fit Tamiya cars. I have Yeah racing ones on my car, 5mm on the front and 4mm on the rear.
  8. I have had two rere lower front arms fail on the front after relatively light taps on the front wheels. The hinge pin had just pulled through the front holes. I have a set of HD printed arms on one car, and a pair of the original arms which apparently didn't have this issue. I do wonder if the moulded upper arms offer more support than the adjustable upper links which allow a lot movement back and forwards.
  9. Here is a pic of the lengthened upper link. I fitted a new longer turnbuckle 35mm long.
  10. As the chassis has very little body roll, it can make traction roll worse. Instead of having a more progressive feel it will flip out of nowhere. Removing the roll bars might actually improve the situation.
  11. I have been running mine recently and have found a couple of things. The rear of the car has very little chassis roll due to a high roll center. I have removed the rear roll bar and lengthened the top link by drilling another hole nearer the rear axle. I am also going to try a softer rear spring. It is also worth flipping the B8 rear mount to get some rear toe in and anti squat. I have also changed the oils to get a better damping balance, although the rear kit pistons (can't remember which ones tbh!) have too much pack with 25wt oil. I'm going to increase the hole size slightly and aim for around 30wt oil.
  12. Hi all. I have noticed watching my son's TS at my local astro track that the rear of the car doesn't really roll. That's with the kit springs and the roll bar removed. I have modded the rear hubs to lengthen the top link, which will hopefully let the rear of the car roll more. It has also reduced the amount of camber change to a less excessive amount. Hopefully will try it out this weekend.
  13. How well do these pistons fit in the CVA shock bodies? The kit pistons are a bit loose and let a lot of oil around the sides.
  14. I have just finished building my sons CC. As far as the shocks go, I have fitted a softer Schumacher black spring on the front, and added a single 1.1mm hole opposite the notch to the front pistons. I used an Associated piston which is a similar diameter to guide where to drill the hole. On the rear I have the grey springs, kit pistons and 30wt Associated oil. I have yet to run the car but it feels more in line with what it should imo.
  15. I started building my son's Cougar today. One thing I have done so far is replace the 10mm screws (that imo are not quite long enough) which are used in the steering bellcranks and drag link. I have now used 12mm and nyloc nuts to save using threadlock and they go right into the nut now.
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