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StueyS

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Everything posted by StueyS

  1. StueyS
    The problem with fixing the splines in semi- permanently is when you need to change the bearings. Someone is running one very well at Herts and many TF run on high grip with little problems these days with the gearbox cover mods. Best not go land jumps on the power though to help. I am hoping to go to Mill End soon to run my Rally car and maybe some vintage.
  2. StueyS
    If you are clamping the rear gear case down and changing the counter gear, I wouldn't worry about a slipper pinion. Many people run the kit rear diff with some very thick diff oil or grease as it's much more reliable than the spline outputs. The ball diff should be fine in the front. When I bought my TF it came with a RW racing coubter gear instead of the metal one, might still be available? I saw the meeting mentioned, is it invitation only? Not raced there for about 20 years now.
  3. StueyS
    I ended up with some 3d printed wishbones on one of my cars, and some of the original ones from the 80's which apparently do not have the same splitting issues as the others. Bearing in mind how flexible they are, I was surprised and disappointed to have two split on the front from fairly minor knocks on the front wheel.
  4. StueyS
    Hi Chris, good to hear the car went well. The wishbone that failed, was it the inner hinge pin being pulled through the front hole by any chance?
  5. StueyS
    Might be able to get some front arms at last!
  6. StueyS
    Hi, this is my Frog as raced at the September Iconic Revival in the UK.
  7. StueyS
    If you want more up travel to go with the extra droop, you probably need taller shock towers so you can have longer stroke shocks. This is not so easy on a TT02, I have a Type S built as a Rally car which has shock towers that can be replaced and modded to raise the upper mounting point. Having the chassis capable of bottoming out before the shock travel ends is desirable IMO, my race buggies can do this and it takes the strain off of the shocks.
  8. StueyS
    It might be worth posting on the Iconic RC pages on FB for another audience.
  9. StueyS
    This is clearly an issue, but I doubt it will improve unless an aftermarket option becomes easily available or Tamiya produce an updated part.
  10. StueyS
    https://www.shapeways.com/product/VS627YQB9/hd-thundershot-arms-x4-tamiya-terra-scorcher-d1?optionId=66766329
  11. StueyS
    The 3d printed heavy duty arms have more material around the inner hinge pins so hopefully a bit more sturdy. With the postage from Shapeways they are not cheap. Not racing the car for me is unacceptable.
  12. StueyS
    I have two Terra Scorcher 2020 kits I bought in winter 2021 that have split the front wishbones from light contact on the front wheels. I managed to get some older arms second hand which have been fine so far, and some nylon 3d printed arms which are also working out fine. I think there has been a batch of bad arms, or a possible change of material. Quite how you might tell I don't know!
  13. StueyS
    You can fit any 12mm hex adaptors that fit Tamiya cars. I have Yeah racing ones on my car, 5mm on the front and 4mm on the rear.
  14. StueyS
    I have had two rere lower front arms fail on the front after relatively light taps on the front wheels. The hinge pin had just pulled through the front holes. I have a set of HD printed arms on one car, and a pair of the original arms which apparently didn't have this issue. I do wonder if the moulded upper arms offer more support than the adjustable upper links which allow a lot movement back and forwards.
  15. StueyS
    Here is a pic of the lengthened upper link. I fitted a new longer turnbuckle 35mm long.
  16. StueyS
    As the chassis has very little body roll, it can make traction roll worse. Instead of having a more progressive feel it will flip out of nowhere. Removing the roll bars might actually improve the situation.
  17. StueyS
    I have been running mine recently and have found a couple of things. The rear of the car has very little chassis roll due to a high roll center. I have removed the rear roll bar and lengthened the top link by drilling another hole nearer the rear axle. I am also going to try a softer rear spring. It is also worth flipping the B8 rear mount to get some rear toe in and anti squat. I have also changed the oils to get a better damping balance, although the rear kit pistons (can't remember which ones tbh!) have too much pack with 25wt oil. I'm going to increase the hole size slightly and aim for around 30wt oil.
  18. StueyS
    Hi all. I have noticed watching my son's TS at my local astro track that the rear of the car doesn't really roll. That's with the kit springs and the roll bar removed. I have modded the rear hubs to lengthen the top link, which will hopefully let the rear of the car roll more. It has also reduced the amount of camber change to a less excessive amount. Hopefully will try it out this weekend.
  19. StueyS
    How well do these pistons fit in the CVA shock bodies? The kit pistons are a bit loose and let a lot of oil around the sides.
  20. StueyS
    I have just finished building my sons CC. As far as the shocks go, I have fitted a softer Schumacher black spring on the front, and added a single 1.1mm hole opposite the notch to the front pistons. I used an Associated piston which is a similar diameter to guide where to drill the hole. On the rear I have the grey springs, kit pistons and 30wt Associated oil. I have yet to run the car but it feels more in line with what it should imo.
  21. StueyS
    I started building my son's Cougar today. One thing I have done so far is replace the 10mm screws (that imo are not quite long enough) which are used in the steering bellcranks and drag link. I have now used 12mm and nyloc nuts to save using threadlock and they go right into the nut now.
  22. StueyS
    We race Rally X at my local club, which is a very bumpy smallish mixed AstroTurf track. We have a mix of different chassis, most of which are modified Tamiyas. The LC goes very well once set up, as does my modified TT02 S. A couple of modded TA02's go well too. I also have an XV01 which is good, but could do with a bit more front suspension droop. This is hampered by the steering rods on the chassis, which has already been modified. I will try and post a pic of my car soon.
  23. StueyS
    I would really like to have a go at this, but it's too far away. My local club does some 1/10 scale rally racing which is a bit difficult on a pretty bumpy track, but it's good fun 🙂
  24. StueyS
    I managed 2 minutes if that! Lol
  25. StueyS
    Hi all. I ran my rere TS today at my local off road club. It is basically kit including the silver can, A5 reinforcement part and different front shocks. Unfortunately I clipped the side of our crossover bridge with a front wheel and split the front wishbone at the front hingepin hole. Are the wishbones known to be weak, or was I just unlucky? I am an experienced racer and set a very quick time with my Associated B74.1 today, so I can still drive! Thanks 🙂
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