StueyS

I would really like to have a go at this, but it's too far away. My local club does some 1/10 scale rally racing which is a bit difficult on a pretty bumpy track, but it's good fun 🙂

I managed 2 minutes if that! Lol

Hi all. I ran my rere TS today at my local off road club. It is basically kit including the silver can, A5 reinforcement part and different front shocks. Unfortunately I clipped the side of our crossover bridge with a front wheel and split the front wishbone at the front hingepin hole. Are the wishbones known to be weak, or was I just unlucky? I am an experienced racer and set a very quick time with my Associated B74.1 today, so I can still drive! Thanks 🙂

I would recommend these too, red on the rear and yellow on the front. Rear toe in hubs also give you more rear end stability.

Thats great thank you 🙂

The MS version has the Aluminium shocks which are what I have on my Boomerwig, so thats the version I was after if possible. 9805917 may work, but I don't know the length of them.

I have managed to find it in the DF-03MS manual, 19080876. Finding the parts is proving harder! Thanks for the help :-)

Hi all. I have the DF-03 damper set 53926, and I am trying to find the part number for the rear piston rod (long). It is not in the instructions, can anyone help please?

Because the piston fit in the CVA shock bodies is so loose and sloppy, a lot of oil will go around the edge rather than mainly through the holes. This limits the pack of the piston. You are probably better off using an oil between 30 and 40wt and the 1 hole piston than going for much heavier oils.

Sorry, at what point was Farage ever trying to effect positive EU change? His agenda was always to cause trouble and get the UK out, which he achieved with the help of other parties only interested in their own ends and certainly not the average Brit.

On the front I have used my dremel to grind away some material from the chassis, this has increased the downward travel. The long damper spec mods have given me more upward suspension travel too, so the chassis can now bottom out.

The Revival should be on again next year, and hopefully back to more of a normal situation. There is an Iconic RC page on a well known social media site that's worth a look too. Electrics are open, so you can run brushed or brushless setups and lipo batteries if you wish.

If you know what mods are needed to get the Fibrelyte top deck to fit the buggy, it's worth getting in contact with them and asking if they can alter it for you. They changed an RC10 shock tower for me from their stock version.

If you use superglue you could always use acetone to get the parts separated again, although the bearings might end up with glue residue inside!

I have tried silicon on the splines before, which didn't last long. The next time I need to fix them rather than try super glue or epoxy, I am going to try shoo goo. It should be stiff enough not to let them move but not as permanent. If you try super glue I would try a gel type like I have, it makes it less likely for it to go everywhere!

I have recently converted my car to long damper with the CVA mini. The advantage I wanted and it gives is more up travel, and now the chassis can bottom out. I have also removed material on the front of the chassis to allow the wishbones to drop more and clear the steering tie rods. My local off road buggy track is pretty bumpy so it needs the help!

I'm not so sure what is around that part of London that might run anything vintage tbh. There are clubs and meetings that may run older cars but you will need to travel.

Whereabouts are you, and what kind of racing are you interested in?

Liking that :-)

I have fitted the Tamiya Frog hex adaptors.

The front wheels are Tamiya ones (not sure which ones?) and the rear are Kyosho Turbo Scorpion.

Thanks. The front towers are the alloy ones on eBay, and Tamiya CVA 50519 on the front set to 70mm. The rear shocks are Trackstar and green Team Associated springs.

This is my Frog with a front shock conversion. I have not had chance to try it yet, but it should work a lot better than the kit setup.

Setting up a ball diff to slip will flatten the balls and make it gritty feeling very quickly. It would be good if a slipper could be fitted, but I can't see how tbh. If you can find a way to glue the splines to take away the play and make it removable to change bearings that would help. It's the loose fitting of the splines that make them strip out. I am going to try epoxy resin next time.

I have a Bigwig which I race sometimes at my local track, which is mixed AstroTurf and pretty bumpy. It goes well for what it is, but as its a fairly small twisty track the lack of steering lock does not help. I am using a Savox 1258tg servo which has plenty of power. The only solution would probably be to try some heavy mods and install a twin bellcrank system similar to modern race chassis. I don't know the steering layout of the Scorcher though, but from pics I have seen I would guess it would work better on track.