StueyS

Thanks :-)

Can you check that spring part number please, it's coming up as an acto power motor.

I ended up with an alloy brace from Full Option, needs a bit of body trimming to fit a Bigwig but is nicely made.

It is always worth keeping an eye on oople, something will come up. Without a reasonably up to date race chassis, I fear you may struggle speed wise and for reliability there. Since you have raced before, I would say a 10.5 motor will do to start, too much power will not help on a fairly small track like DMS. All of my modern race cars are used, picking the right one can save a lot of money.

I wouldn't worry about it tbh.

Most people would run Schumacher fusion tyres on the front, and the cactus on the rear in the yellow compound and medium foam inserts on EOS carpet. Getting rid of the bullet connectors for reliability is a good idea too.

Hi, I am guessing if you are racing indoors it is on carpet? If so is it a medium grey colour, or black? The most important thing to get right is the tyres, then you tune from there.

Is it available yet?

I would say it's more the turning circle, tyre and suspension setup can help with the overall balance. As it was cold and damp the tyres probably didn't help much. I have never tried the turning circles back to back.

On the Bigwig I would like to see steering that has a bit more lock, and some rear toe in uprights for the Hotshot series cars.

I raced mine on Sunday morning at my local club, which is a smallish very bumpy AstroTurf track against modern cars for the last heat of the day. The steering feels fine, but it does lack steering lock imo. I have been wondering if an extra tooth at each end of the rack could be made to improve things? I have a Boomer too, and I'm sure it has a bit more lock than the Wig.

I have used a Savox 1258tg servo in my Bigwig, which is the same as I use in my modern race cars. The high torque helps to overcome the resistance from the rubber gaiters and it works fine. I do wonder if a rack could be made with an extra tooth slot each side to increase the steering lock, but it does work OK as is. I use and race my cars BTW, hence the good servo.

I'm not sure toe in blocks are allowed at present. There have been people asking about allowing them, but I didn't run them at the WLRC round. I had trouble getting enough steering!!

Modelfixings has been a very useful store for me.

OK that's fine then thanks Snappy :-)

A quick question regarding the TA03 ball diff in the Top Force. Can you use the original TF diff gear with the TA03 parts, as it looks like the TA diff gear is narrower? I race mine so strength is important. Thanks :-)

My first hobby grade RC car was a Grasshopper, I would love to put one together like this that could get round a modern track well :-)

If you can get them, the Core RC lipo stick packs fit in all of my Tamiya cars.

Hi everyone. I now have a Boomerang and a Bigwig, and would like a brace similar to the Team CRP brace to strengthen and remove slop from the front upper suspension arms. As they are not likely to be easy to find, is there an alternative or perhaps a 3d printed version available? Thanks for reading :-)

I used some carefully applied gel superglue to retain my outdrives. It hopefully helps stop the play in between the splines and diff plates as the fit is not very good imo.

I just typed it into Google, a well known uk shop has it in stock.

Matrixline do an Aston Martin DBR9, wing looks a bit poop though...

Tamiya Mercedes AMG GT3

Your Frog looks great, I have done the centre servo mod and the MIP ball diff. Do you have a link to the rear shocks you have used please?

You may have to be a member of the forum. It might be worth looking on the RW website, and as mentioned it was on the iconic page on fb.