Jump to content

StueyS

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    128

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by StueyS

  3. Posted

    If you are keeping it at the standard wheelbase, the kit belt is prone to slipping even with the tensioner set to max. The Optima belt is a tooth shorter which helps make the tensioner more effective. It's also much easier to fit when you first build than afterwards!

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 1

  4. Posted

    The problem with fixing the splines in semi- permanently is when you need to change the bearings. Someone is running one very well at Herts and many TF run on high grip with little problems these days with the gearbox cover mods. Best not go land jumps on the power though to help. I am hoping to go to Mill End soon to run my Rally car and maybe some vintage.

  5. Posted

    If you are clamping the rear gear case down and changing the counter gear, I wouldn't worry about a slipper pinion. Many people run the kit rear diff with some very thick diff oil or grease as it's much more reliable than the spline outputs. The ball diff should be fine in the front. When I bought my TF it came with a RW racing coubter gear instead of the metal one, might still be available?

    I saw the meeting mentioned, is it invitation only? Not raced there for about 20 years now.

  10. Posted

    If you want more up travel to go with the extra droop, you probably need taller shock towers so you can have longer stroke shocks. This is not so easy on a TT02, I have a Type S built as a Rally car which has shock towers that can be replaced and modded to raise the upper mounting point. Having the chassis capable of bottoming out before the shock travel ends is desirable IMO, my race buggies can do this and it takes the strain off of the shocks.

    • Thanks 1

  15. Posted

    I have two Terra Scorcher 2020 kits I bought in winter 2021 that have split the front wishbones from light contact on the front wheels. I managed to get some older arms second hand which have been fine so far, and some nylon 3d printed arms which are also working out fine. I think there has been a batch of bad arms, or a possible change of material. Quite how you might tell I don't know!

    • Like 1

  17. Posted

    On 11/4/2023 at 10:33 PM, Saito2 said:

    As an update, I converted the Terra Scorcher into a Thundershot of sorts. Going to a mono shock in my case reduced some of the oversteer and settled the car in the lumpy grass of my backyard. I think with different tires it might be even better. I was still running the Scorcher's adjustable upper links which may have proven to be an issue. Coming around a turn, I managed to just slightly clip the inner right wheel on my daughter's swing set. It was a light tap and didn't really upset the T-shot's composure, but something on the front end looked "off". Bringing it in, I saw the front inner lower arm pivot had easily pulled out of the hinge pin (mounted to an alloy A5 of course). I don't remember my old T-shot from '05 ever doing that. Perhaps the solid upper arms must be employed to curb this, even if it puts more potential stress of other parts (knuckles, hubs, upper inner arm pivots, etc.) in the event of an impact.

    I have had two rere lower front arms fail on the front after relatively light taps on the front wheels. The hinge pin had just pulled through the front holes. I have a set of HD printed arms on one car, and a pair of the original arms which apparently didn't have this issue. I do wonder if the moulded upper arms offer more support than the adjustable upper links which allow a lot movement back and forwards.

    • Like 1

  20. Posted

    I have been running mine recently and have found a couple of things. The rear of the car has very little chassis roll due to a high roll center. I have removed the rear roll bar and lengthened the top link by drilling another hole nearer the rear axle. I am also going to try a softer rear spring. It is also worth flipping the B8 rear mount to get some rear toe in and anti squat. I have also changed the oils to get a better damping balance, although the rear kit pistons (can't remember which ones tbh!) have too much pack with 25wt oil. I'm going to increase the hole size slightly and aim for around 30wt oil.

    • Like 1

  21. Posted

    Hi all. I have noticed watching my son's TS at my local astro track that the rear of the car doesn't really roll. That's with the kit springs and the roll bar removed. I have modded the rear hubs to lengthen the top link, which will hopefully let the rear of the car roll more. It has also reduced the amount of camber change to a less excessive amount. Hopefully will try it out this weekend.

  23. Posted

    I have just finished building my sons CC. As far as the shocks go, I have fitted a softer Schumacher black spring on the front, and added a single 1.1mm hole opposite the notch to the front pistons. I used an Associated piston which is a similar diameter to guide where to drill the hole. On the rear I have the grey springs, kit pistons and 30wt Associated oil. I have yet to run the car but it feels more in line with what it should imo.

  24. Posted

    I started building my son's Cougar today. One thing I have done so far is replace the 10mm screws (that imo are not quite long enough) which are used in the steering bellcranks and drag link. I have now used 12mm and nyloc nuts to save using threadlock and they go right into the nut now.

  25. Posted

    We race Rally X at my local club, which is a very bumpy smallish mixed AstroTurf track. We have a mix of different chassis, most of which are modified Tamiyas. The LC goes very well once set up, as does my modified TT02 S. A couple of modded TA02's go well too. I also have an XV01 which is good, but could do with a bit more front suspension droop. This is hampered by the steering rods on the chassis, which has already been modified. I will try and post a pic of my car soon.

×
×
  • Create New...