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About Aerobert

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  • Birthday 03/11/1978

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  1. The battery retainer is on the E parts sprue. Tamico has it in stock: https://tamico.de/Tamiya-19006835-E-Teile-Stossfaenger-Akkuhalter-TA03?curr=EUR&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIh56WgZvu6wIVweF3Ch28FwdNEAQYAiABEgISgvD_BwE
  2. That are M-Chassis wheels. When I build my Sand Rover on the shortens DT-02 chassis I searched the internet for suitable wheels for the Sand Blaster tyres. An obvious wrong information I found was that the M-Chassis wheels would fit. Therefore I've ordered them. When they arrived I was clear that they are not usable in that way. So I decided to make them bigger. I've searched several hardware stores until I found a plastic tube for toilet flushing which had the right inner and outer diameter. This was cut in thin slices of about 5 mm and glued onto the wheels. Then shaped with a blade and abrasive paper and painted. This is the short version. It took some hours to finish them but like the Beetle-look for the VW based Sand Rover.
  3. This is such a cool looking buggy. Love this pic with the fluorescent colours on the dark stone.
  4. Worked a bit on my DT-02 "Sand Blitzer" and give a quick test drive
  5. Never been at this point. I know exactly what cars / RC stuff I have as I can see all of them on the shelf. Currently I have nine cars from Tamiya, MST and Kyosho.
  6. According to the manual you have to make wheels for front and rear axle. Are they different for front and rear? And if so is it possible that they are interchanged?
  7. Finished my TA03-F Audi A4 rebuild as far as I want to get in the moment. I've bought the car over a classified site and it was well used. For the rebuild the chassis was completely striped and cleaned. New C-Hubs, a new belt and complete new electronics were the only parts that needs replacement. Also the car has now a complete set of ball bearings. The wheels are not the kit ones but came with the car and I think they match quite good. As the body was way more damaged as I first thought and as the situation for parts and nice touring car bodies is not the best in the moment I've decided to do the best with it that was possible. The body is now weathered as a hard raced touring car. Scratches and cracks are taken and shown with dignity, also the colour marks of hard fights with the competitors. The right wing mirror got lost in a fight. The whole car is covered in the typical black dusty dirt from the race track. The most difficult part of weathering is to stop before it looks excessive. But I think it turns out pretty well. As these are only phone pics they don't show it perfectly.
  8. Part number for the body mounts is 0005660 (TA03 D-parts). You need two of them.
  9. Instead of build in an additional connector for charging the battery in the car you may think about to work over your light connectors. Maybe something like this will make it easier to remove the shell. https://www.boomracingrc.com/boom-racing-stealth-wireless-magnetic-led-body-mount-3116 Or you put all connectors in one like these: https://www.multiplex-rc.de/produkte/1-01219-mpx-stecker-m6-50-3-stueck-made-in-germany Will make your battery charging for sure easier.
  10. Opened a older tin of enamel paint which seems to be too old.
  11. Thank you. The pic of my car is how I've got it. I'm just about to finish the rebuild and mounted the pulley according to the manual like you did. I think you are right and I need a new belt.
  12. Just one question as I don't want to open a new thread for it: How much tension does the belt need? Or how much flex is allowed? I'm asking because I put the tension pulley to the maximum position and the belt is still flexing very much.
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