Aerobert

Hi All! I've got this Sanwa Seven ACE TX with a car I've recently bought. Included are a Sanwa SRD-2122RS receiver and two Sanwa 1301 servos. Also included is a LRP SS-Speedy ESC. Does anybody have an idea about the value of this lot? I'm thinking about selling it on. Or maybe someone have some information about the ESC? A manual is included but it says nothing about technical specifications. Thank you. Edit: Missed to say that the TX and all other stuff is only lightly used. Some light scratches on the side of the battery tray on some more on the pedestals. Please se the pics. Set was tested, everything is working properly.

The truck looks great. Love the paint theme, espeacially the Durandal logo. Great work.

Good to hear that you are fine again. Stay safe and have fun with the Hornet.

The battery retainer is on the E parts sprue. Tamico has it in stock: https://tamico.de/Tamiya-19006835-E-Teile-Stossfaenger-Akkuhalter-TA03?curr=EUR&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIh56WgZvu6wIVweF3Ch28FwdNEAQYAiABEgISgvD_BwE

That are M-Chassis wheels. When I build my Sand Rover on the shortens DT-02 chassis I searched the internet for suitable wheels for the Sand Blaster tyres. An obvious wrong information I found was that the M-Chassis wheels would fit. Therefore I've ordered them. When they arrived I was clear that they are not usable in that way. So I decided to make them bigger. I've searched several hardware stores until I found a plastic tube for toilet flushing which had the right inner and outer diameter. This was cut in thin slices of about 5 mm and glued onto the wheels. Then shaped with a blade and abrasive paper and painted. This is the short version. It took some hours to finish them but like the Beetle-look for the VW based Sand Rover.

This is such a cool looking buggy. Love this pic with the fluorescent colours on the dark stone.

Worked a bit on my DT-02 "Sand Blitzer" and give a quick test drive

Never been at this point. I know exactly what cars / RC stuff I have as I can see all of them on the shelf. Currently I have nine cars from Tamiya, MST and Kyosho.

According to the manual you have to make wheels for front and rear axle. Are they different for front and rear? And if so is it possible that they are interchanged?

Is it the same at the rear axle?

Finished my TA03-F Audi A4 rebuild as far as I want to get in the moment. I've bought the car over a classified site and it was well used. For the rebuild the chassis was completely striped and cleaned. New C-Hubs, a new belt and complete new electronics were the only parts that needs replacement. Also the car has now a complete set of ball bearings. The wheels are not the kit ones but came with the car and I think they match quite good. As the body was way more damaged as I first thought and as the situation for parts and nice touring car bodies is not the best in the moment I've decided to do the best with it that was possible. The body is now weathered as a hard raced touring car. Scratches and cracks are taken and shown with dignity, also the colour marks of hard fights with the competitors. The right wing mirror got lost in a fight. The whole car is covered in the typical black dusty dirt from the race track. The most difficult part of weathering is to stop before it looks excessive. But I think it turns out pretty well. As these are only phone pics they don't show it perfectly.

Have a look here and here

Part number for the body mounts is 0005660 (TA03 D-parts). You need two of them.

A new belt for my TA03-F.

Instead of build in an additional connector for charging the battery in the car you may think about to work over your light connectors. Maybe something like this will make it easier to remove the shell. https://www.boomracingrc.com/boom-racing-stealth-wireless-magnetic-led-body-mount-3116 Or you put all connectors in one like these: https://www.multiplex-rc.de/produkte/1-01219-mpx-stecker-m6-50-3-stueck-made-in-germany Will make your battery charging for sure easier.

Opened a older tin of enamel paint which seems to be too old.

Thank you. The pic of my car is how I've got it. I'm just about to finish the rebuild and mounted the pulley according to the manual like you did. I think you are right and I need a new belt.

Just one question as I don't want to open a new thread for it: How much tension does the belt need? Or how much flex is allowed? I'm asking because I put the tension pulley to the maximum position and the belt is still flexing very much.

Cool Project @Busdriver! Looking forward for the finished car. I've done something similar with my Bronco but there is still so much work to do and there are so many other projects.

Carried on with rebuilding my second hand TA03-F.

👍 Good choice, even when you bought accidently. I love mine.

TA03-F, complete stock. Even without ball bearings. My first belt driven on-road car (my second on-road car ever to be honest). Will be completely striped to search for broken or worn parts and to give it a good cleaning.

This TA03-F Audi A4 which I've bought from a classified site for a good price was delivered today. The car seems to be in a good condition, the body have some cracks and scratches but is overall in a not so bad condition. Included was also a 40 mHz Sanwa Seven Ace and some old stickers, small catalogues and so on. Will get a good cleaning and inspection. Not sure what to do with the body, as many new bodies are currently not available. 

Brilliant. I think I need a 3D printer.

I'm pretty sure that my skill level will not be high enough even if I have a full equipped work shop, but I would like to do a Ford Model A Hot Rod and a Porsche 911 Carrera (964 and/or 993). Just a dream and it will not happen.