Aerobert
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Posts posted by Aerobert
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1 hour ago, Ministrone said:
That's gorgeous. I just love the Dirt Thrasher.
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Finished my budget rally car this evening. I present to you: The Subaru BRZ WRC
And to proof this car is a budget rally car here's the bill:
Kit €74,90
Tires and inserts €28,70
Body €30,90
WRC Wing €9,39
Wheels (2 Sets) €16,86
High Speed Gear Set €9,99
Decals €11,99
Wheel Hex Adapter €5,70
Chassis protection €13,89
From the parts stash came the ESC, ball connectors, servo, ball bearings and paint. As the servo and ball bearings are new, so I bill them with €6,00 respectively €13,81. In total it is € 224,79. Out of budget, but I've sold the kit body for €30,00 and therefore the car is inside the budget with a total of €194,79.
The car is painted in PS-5, with different cans. The decal sheet is from Kyosho and was pretty cheap, but seems to be a bit older. The Killer Body body has a good detail with separate front and rear part and many attachments like mirrors, antennas and wipers. Unfortunately it is wider than Tamiya bodies, so I had to buy MST wheels with much offset. Currently the damper set up is not perfect, I was aiming for a droop set up but it seems that fully equipped the car is too heavy for the used springs. I will experiment with stiffer springs.
I have two sets of MST wheels, one set of white ones for rally block tires and the shown golden ones for on road tires.
I will make some better pictures when weather and time allows.
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Looking really good , all of them. And I must admit you are a brave man to cut holes into that body.
Looking forward to the finished result.
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That's an awesome idea. I will follow this thread and looking forward to the next entries. I saw that some cars have upgraded motors. Not sure if they are faster. Wouldn't it be better for comparison to set them to building manual recommendations with a silver can and kit pinion?
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@AJB123 That Delta looks beautiful in blue. Almost to nice to run it. Great work!
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2 hours ago, Wooders28 said:
Escs always have the fan, blowing onto them, not sucking through, so is there any reason why car fans always seem to be sucking the air through?
Easier on the production line?
Easier design, if you've got aircon options?
Actually better at cooling??
I think it's got to do with air flow. The cooling fan usually doesn't run all the time, only when the car stands still or there isn't enough air flow. So I think if you mount the fan in front of the cooler it might interrupt the air flow.
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5 hours ago, OoALEJOoO said:
The fact that the servo remained steady when propping it and going full-throttle, would mean that the BEC can keep-up when there is little motor load, but cannot under hard acceleration.
Not sure if I understand correctly, so please correct me I'm wrong. You tested the servo while the wheels are freely spinning in the air? Or do you keep it slightly to the ground so that the motor and ESC gets some load like under real acceleration?
If the first one I would try it again with wheels touching slightly the ground to simulate the driving conditions. So you can see if the servo do anything strange under acceleration.
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16 hours ago, rich_f said:
Two of the screws that come with the tamiya one are part of the mount itself and only need to be attached once (or not at all if you have an original as they came pre-assembled originally) - you don't need to remove them to remove the motor, so not really the disadvantage you make it out to be.
You're right, it's intended to be attached once. As I said before I'm not familiar with the Tamiya part but I had the GMP part in a Dirt Trasher which use the same principle and those screws came loose during driving the car. Even with Loctite. And on this experience I would recommend the single piece motor mount.
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TLT-1 tires are smaller than MB tires and have the same issue with the bigger diameter on the inside of the wheel.
If you are looking for bigger tires for your MB check eBay for 363470295860. Choose the 135x73 mm tires. They will give your MB a much better Monster Truck look and fit the MB wheels. I have them on my WR-01. Maybe you have to gear down the truck a little bit.
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7 hours ago, Frankster said:
Reading this post. How did it go with the car?
By the way someone is selling TLT-1 wheels in my area. What is the tire hole diameter and width. I would Ike to see if it fits my monster beetle stock wheels
Interesting timing for your question. Funnily enough I've just got the car on the bench as it doesn't work anymore. Some issues with the cheap TX/RX as it seems.
The F103 axles working well, no issues with them although the car gets some hard bashing.
I don't think the Monster Beetle tires will fit the TLT-1 wheels as those wheels have a different diameter on the inside and outside of the wheel. Therefore only TLT-1 tires will fit.
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1 hour ago, alvinlwh said:
Will PS-4 backed with black work? Or will PS-59 works better?
Couldn't find an image of PS-67 online and can't say anything to PS-59 but here's a link to my finished Alfa Romeo Giulia painted with PS-4 and backd with black. Maybe it helps
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14 hours ago, technics said:
@Aerobert Thank you! I have some restraint now about bike tubes for visually seen parts after wotking with the medium today actually.
In my one I experienced alot of colour deviation and structural ribbing on the surface of the material which will kill the scale. I found almost no area that is completely smooth. It must vary from brand to brand but I think I’m going with some sort of plastic or rubber sheet. Or try another brand bike tube of course!
Do share what you find / end up doing ! I
The original listing I bought from is here - https://buyee.jp/item/yahoo/auction/b1042742247?lang=en
Thanks for the link. I will have a look.
Regarding the mudflaps I'm not sure how thick and flexible they should be to scale. Up to now I didn't think so much about colour and structural differences of bicycle tubes but that's an issue too. My concern was that it would be too thin and would flutter on higher speeds. Don't know if that makes sense.
So I combed through my material stock and found something different. I have some sheets of stamp rubber which I normally use to transfer colour on elevated details like badges and signs on static models as painting them with a brush often looks not so good. These sheets are 5 mm thick but that's too much. But it has the right balance between flexibility and stiffness I think of and is available in different colours down to 2.3 mm thickness. Don't know if that is still too thick but I guess I will give it a try.
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Awesome car. I also thinking of mudflaps from bicycle tubes and will keep an eye on yours. I love the exhaust. Do you have a link for it?
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An IKEA package with a new desk lamp for my RC space and a shelf for displaying my empty and presentable Tamiya boxes.
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1 hour ago, Pylon80 said:
Looking good sir! Being a BRZ I think it's begging for a RWD conversion 😉
I was thinking of your wide drive shaft search. What width wheel hex's do you think you might need? 6mm fit with the kit nuts. 7mm fit with low profile flanged nuts like the drone guys are using to secure their props. And 8mm will fit a standard slim nut. Just secure it with loctite. I suppose you won't be racing so it shouldn't be a problem to have to wait 30min or so for the loctite to work it's magic whenever you install or rotate wheels. I have done that on my M-05. I wanted to go wide but still retain the double cardan joints which of course do not come in wide size.
Thank you. You're right, no racing just casual bashing now and then, if something like this exists.
I tested with the wide hey adapters included in the kit, I think they are 9 mm wide and they are just wide enough. But then there is maybe just a half thread turn left. I've ordered MST wheels with wide offset and will then see how to proceed.
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Can't say anything to the Tamiya motor mount, but I can't recommend the GPM one. It's not of good quality. The 3Racing one has, in my eyes, the big advantage to be a one piece motor mount. While Tamiya and GPM need 6 screws just to attach the motor to the chassis you only need 4 with the 3racing one.
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Drilled all necessary holes into the BRZ body and made a mock up of the mirrors, wipers, antenna and rear wing. The wing is from a 2008 WRC and fits quite well. Not perfect but good enough considering that it's from a totally different car. I will also mount the roof scoop of the 2008 WRC. Looks already like a rally car.
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I've ordered some MST wheel with 9 and 8 mm offset from Asiatees. They are quit cheap with around €8,50 for a set of 4 wheels. Don't know how durable their touring car wheels are but the one for the scale crawlers are of good quality. They should be here in about 10 days.
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Thank you @Pylon80for this advice. But I suspect this will exaggerate the budget of my 200€ rally build. Currently I'm thinking of wheels with appropriate offset. If this doesn't work I will come back to you regarding the part numbers if you don't mind.
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On page 23 of the manual it is shown that you need to mount the ball connectors with a spacer to insure the dampers will move freely. Therefore the long ball connectors. I assume the standard ball connectors will work too but then you will have an angle when mounted.
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That Audi is absolutely stunning @OoALEJOoO! Great work as always.
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That beetle looks great with the red wheels @Nikko85.
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Not just today, but the last three days I've took the old beaten up Audi A4 STW shell which was still somewhere in my stock and made it to a rally body. The Subaru BRZ body which is planned as the body for my budget rally build will take some time until it's done. Additionally I need to widen the track as the body is wider than the Tamiya ones.
It's more a look-a-like rally trim with various stickers I had no other use for, but I like it. Also attached some Subaru WRC wing mirrors.
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The "Postman Brought Me" Thread
in General discussions
Posted
Finally, after it has been stuck in a distribution center for one week, the postman brought me my first 3D printer.