Aerobert
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Posts posted by Aerobert
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Finished the rebuild of the Super Fighter G. The car was taken apart, cleaned and rebuild with some new parts and mostly parts of my stock. Got a new servo, drive shafts, wheels, tires, oil shocks and ball bearings. Put in an older Tamiya radio. Overall, finishing the body was the hardest part as my masking tape is totally crap. It didn't stick enough to avoid bleeding but leaves glue residual when removed. But I think it turned out okay. In the end it is a present for my ten year old nephew and will be massively used. Therefore some imperfections aren't so bad.
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I have an IMAX B6 charger which is older but should be very similar to yours.
You can use the Charge or Auto CHG mode of the charger. I use the charge mode at mine. But you should set a max current for charging in auto mode.
I always charge my batteries with 1C. This means if you have a 5000 mAh battery you charge it with 5.0 A, a 3500 mAh for example with 3.5 A. When the battery is fully charged you can see the charging time and the capacity on the display.
Of course it is possible to cycle your battery to evaluate the capacity of the battery but this something which is normally done to refresh old batteries.
After some cycles of standard charging you will know the capacity of the battery as well.
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Hi!
What is a Blockhead 4x4x4?
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@Carmine A I hope you get well soon. All the best.
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1 hour ago, Juhunio said:
Been on a bit of a painting and decorating jag this last week, and today I finished my second shell in six days. A new look for my TA02SW
That Porsche looks gorgeous. Great work!
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Finished the driver for the Super Fighter G...
...which currently looks like this...
...still needs some paint: fluorescent orange and black, and some parts are still missing.
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14 hours ago, ChrisRx718 said:
To use those axles you'll also need to buy 4mm ball ends, 4mm ball connectors and some different tie rods to get them to work. The standard DT02 ones are 5mm with an m3 thread, which won't fit into the holes on 54154.
I wrote a guide on how to convert a DT02 to hex-drive front wheels but youll need to buy some bits from 3Racing and 4 bearings:
I think I will do the conversion on my next DT-02. For this one I've already got the GPM adapters. I think I will carefully drill out the holes or maybe I have some smaller ball conectors from my Mini Inferno.
10 hours ago, Toolmaker72 said:If you apply heat to those steering arms from say a hot air paint stripper you can gently bend those arms in to give the clearance required. Put under a cold running tap to quickly cure the plastic. As above you will need to shorten the steering arms
That would normally be the way I would try it. But in this case the arms have already been bend and are a little bit weak. But thanks for your input.
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Thank you. I will order these.
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2 hours ago, TurnipJF said:
It looks like you need front axles with a shorter, slightly offset track rod attachment point, such as part number 54154.
Good Morning TurnipJF,
thanks a lot for your help. This was the information I was looking for. On a first look it seems like 54154 will be a direct fit into the DT-02 C-Hubs. Can you or someone else confirm that?
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Good afternoon everyone!
I'm currently rebuilding the DT-02 Super Fighter G which I have recently bought. The car should be a birthday present to my nephew. As it is important to keep the costs low for this project I am trying to use as much as I can from my own pool of parts. I have a set of four TLT-1 wheels I would like to use them as the car should get a monster touch. I've bought the GPM hex adapters for the front wheels and tried to fit them today. It is possible to mount them but it will be impossible to steer the car.
Is there a possibility to change the steering parts for a better fit? Maybe some DT-02 experts here know what I can do to make those wheels work.
Thanks!
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I either didn't like cutting body shells because every mistake is irreversible but painting and stickering for me is a rather nice work. Also there are some possibilities to ruin the body but in the end I like it. Important is not to rush. It takes a little time to prepare and do it but it's worth it.
Do you have the paint for the bodies? When I order a new kit I always order the paint I need with it. And as you already said it's very satisfying to see the finished result and to know that you have completely done by yourself.
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That is such a cool truck. And it's looking great in that blue, but the two wheels in the back screaming Baja race truck and so I would plaster it with sponsor stickers. To hide some scratches is a nice extra benefit.
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Started to disassemble the Super Fighter G I've got today. Seems it was a little bit longer in the attic:
Fortunately there are no big issues with the car. Currently it seems that I just need new drive shafts as they are worn by the plastic bushings.
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A used and dusty Super Fighter G with Futaba radio. Got it from a classified site for 25 € as it was sold as defect. It is complete and not so much used as I thought for that price. Receiver, ESC, Servo and Motor are included and it has no obvious damage. I think I will rebuild it as a birthday present for my nephew as his first hobby grade RC car.
Btw: Does anyone know if the front wheels for the Mad Bull are available in white? And if so, do you know the part number?
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Made an attempt for this round and get a result which I've just submitted. Must say when you see the track layout on the screen you think no problem. But it wasn't so easy to find a place in my, I would say big garden, were is enough space. Almost everywhere are trees or children play structure. Managed to set up the track and made a training of ten minutes, followed by two attempts. Not so easy as it seems but fun. Next time I will try to drive my TA03-F. This time I had to stay inside my garden and therefore I've took the Dirt Thrasher. Here it is after the run.
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Nothing RC related, but at least some modelling stuff.
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It looks great so far and if you had told us now it's finished, I'm sure most of us would like it. But I would also like to see the blue colour on it.
If you are planning to add a light kit to it in the future you should paint the back of the light housing black now. Otherwise the light body will glow red.
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Did you finished the stickers? Would like to see the finished car.
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Was trying to participate the fourth round of postal racing in one of the short raining breaks we have currently. Packed everything together, I thought I would need, and went to a place which would be at least adequate enough. Put the battery into the car, hit the throttle and loose a tire 20 meters after start. Now I'm back home and glueing tires (for the first time ever).
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The Mad Bull is a good car for sure, but the requirement of 50£ RTR will even with a used car not work in my opinion.
I would go with something like this:
https://www.wpl-rc.com/collections/c24/products/c24-rtr
Can't say anything about that car from my own experience but read some good reviews. Maybe someone here can say something about it.
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Not exactly sure but to me it looks like it was changed from the short chassis / belt to the long one of the TA03F. If you want to change it back the parts are available at least Tamico.
The E-parts 50717 were replaced by 9006835.
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Unfortunately I can't help you with that as I don't have a Quick Drive buggy.
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25 minutes ago, Wetman said:
Best I can do with the weather the way it is. Left is ps15 backed with black, middle ps15 with white then black and ps15 with smoke then black on the right
That's great. Exactly what I was looking for. Thank you.
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I guess you have a Quick Drive Manta Ray!? Maybe have a look here:
mtbkym01's project thread - Latest “The Gas Truck that started a huge following - RC10GT”
in General discussions
Posted
Looking great. The wheels are a perfect match for the body. 👍